paulbates

What's the load, anything different about the one in question? Can you take the bulb/light out and retry?

Marc I have inlinelincs controlling low voltage pendant lighting. The transformers can be extremely noisy and affect the inlinelinc. Are the loads off on all 4 inlinelincs when attempting to configure? If not, give that a try. It may be that the inlincs are close enough to each other for the manual link, but the plm is too far away and noise doesn't allow the signal to get there. I had to filter 2 of them to get them to work right. Paul

Its probably best to go with best practices where you can. If you install something and avoid an vulnerability, do it. While I agree Insteon rf/db vulnerability is a worthy concern, I try not to overreact to it. I don't use more rf/db than I need, and try to keep things like the plm away from the edges of the house. I use a signalinc bridge in the panel instead of access points. I locate my router, phone base and PLM to minimize its strength at the property line where someone could most like "sniff" it. I have very few DB devices. To your point, out of 125M houses in America, whats the threat potential for my individual house to an impactful insteon exploit? I believe its very low. Other than the things I've listed above, my alternative is to replace insteon. And if so, replace it with what? Google "z wave vulnerability" for a list of possibilities there. I think its a matter of minimizing exposure in the most practical way. Paul

Phil You can close it. Its a separate process that locates the ISY so the admin console can start. or for multiple ISYs if you have more than one. One other thing you can do with it; I've had 2 entries in it for my laptop, one for the local address 192.168.x.y for access at home, and one with my dyndns name and mapped port number when I travel. Paul

Hi jackman, welcome! I'm more aligned with Teken. I converted from HomeSeer last year, and after trying to migrate without rebuilding, I ended up starting from scratch. I had ~40 devices at the time and it helped to document and review that everything was right. Maybe half a day or so, but that included time to have a naming scheme etc. No irlinc but 2 ezfloras. If you decide to migrate as is, I would pilot several devices to make sure it does what you expect Paul

+1. I went through a period long ago of using an x10 universal module and key chain remote for the garage door, then had the thoughts about security and took it back out. And since I can sense when the door goes up and that its night out, I have that input to turn on premise and inside lighting automatically; I don't need the extra buttons on the remotelinc for lights. Entry methods, as Teken points out, should be left to dedicated security devices like GDO remotes, Elk, etc.

Cory I'm not 100% based on the write up... (Depending) if its two separate 100 foot runs, move the switches to the other, house side of the line. You might have to turn the lights on if there are outlets on the other end used for yard work, etc. Maybe I'm not reading it correctly though, and the two items are on the same 100 foot run Paul

Its a nice feature when you have a mix of devices controlling the same dim-able loads in scenes. I use this on keypads where the A load is relay, but other buttons control lighting on inlinelinc dimmers.

There are boards for that.....

Man, wish I had know about these before. These are on my homedepot list for this weekend!

I had several KPLs from the 2011/2012 timeframe. When they start clicking and flashing, its only been a short time before they go dead. Just lost the last of those last month. The ones form before that time and after that time have been fine.

I've had those symptoms when KPLs are going bad... either randomly or touching a button. I haven't had it happen with a link before...does the link activate the button that powers the KPL's load? Paul

The analogy police have been notified

Ok, what you are describing as your requirment should work and is a core insteon feature: -All lights added to one scene -Both switches added as controllers to the same scene. That both makes this new virtual circuit available from the ISY controlling the scene, and each switching turning on and off. If its not interference, I'm not certain where to go at this point. Edit1: and Michael beat me to the punch Edit2: went back to the beginning, and adding both as controllers was suggested in post #2 and indicated that it didn't work in post #3. Not sure where to go at this point if noise has been eliminated

Just to clarify what you are showing; only one of the switches needs to be wired to the load. The scene should then make the switches into a virtual circuit. While I haven't done this with 2 toggle lincs, I do have a togglelinc for a porch light that is also in a scene with a swtichlinc for floodlights, a motion sensor and 3 keypad keys. They all work together to control each other and the lights. Insteon is designed to do exactly what you are describing.

Don't start over. 1- Control the morning linc without the scene? Does that work? If no, you will probably have to remove it and re-add it 2- Rebuild the scene. Pull things out and add them back. Its a minor, vs major pain.

Not sure what makes up the sauna, but everything else is certainly suspect... Especially if on the same circuit with the switches. If you are able, conduct a test. Unplug all of it briefly (at least those things on the circuit in questions) and retest. Plug things in, adding one at a time, and retest until it breaks. That should lead to suspects. It might be that some problems occur when a few things are running at the same time. Paul

Did you try restoring any of the devices? Or, I would try rebuilding the scene... remove the devices and then add them back in. that will reprogram everything. It should not take long to see if that helps.

I've found setting jumper one cuts the sensitivity to a level that works well, but is not trigger happy. I'm sure each setup is unique and has unique problems.

Depending how far the 2992-222 is from the panel on the circuit, it will be most effective on that circuit vs the whole power leg. After the signal is bridged to the 2992-222, it will have to travel back down the circuit to the panel and then on to other circuits on that leg. It loses power as distance increases. One advantage of the phase coupler (or putting the 2992-222s very near the panel) is that the signal will distributed out all circuits relatively evenly on that power leg. Having the plm near the panel is important too.. same rules. the further it is from the panel, the signal weakens for other circuits. In the cases of a lot of noise/insteon device problems on a single circuit, the 2992-222 helps address that problem spot. As an example, I have the phase coupler in my panel and my plm on an outlet that is fed by one of the breakers for the phase coupler. However, an iolinc in my detached garage has occasionally had problems, so I have an older insteon access point (an earlier version of the 2992-222) out there. It gets the signal to the end of the circuit there. You could possible use both. After you get the phase coupler, I would install it and temporarily remove all 2992-222s. Rerun your program that started this thread. Then if there are problem spots after a few days, start placing the 2992-222 to address those particular problems

Forgot about that Stu... Its this one. We need a "best of" sub forum....

Larry, Maybe twice a year we'll have cold spell with a warm rain on top of it. In those cases, I'll go through periods of a few hours where it can go off based off the rain dripping off the garage roof (I think, don't have a better explanation). You also have to watch where the dryer vent exhausts or other fans (our Jenn-air stove exhausts a foot above ground) Snow / wind have never been a factor. My main MS is out in the open, covering from near the street up 30 feet of driveway, and across the back yard. I had to set jumper 1 for cutting the sensitivity of it 1/3, that's something to think about. Without the jumper It was picking up things in my neighbors yard and every car that went by on the street. Now it catches things moving around in the yard, and any car pulling past the sidewalk driving in. Paul

Jeff, I couldn't hurt. I've been looking for field reports on how those perform. Probably the best way would be a 9v powersupply. I don't have a good way to install one or cover the wires up, otherwise that's how I ideally would do it. Paul

Hi Jeff I've had one outside observing my driveway in SW Michigan for a few years. I probably should have it covered on top, but i don't. The major problem of the colder snaps is that affects battery performance. I change the battery routinely around now before winter, and also 6 months later in the spring, whether the battery indicator goes on, or not. That way there is a solid 9 volts going into winter.I don't want to chance having to deal with it in the dead of winter. Based on how this has worked I put another one under my deck as a "critter detector". This will be its first winter. Paul

I can think of two scenarios. 1) I have a couple of switches at the edges of my network that have to be factory reset and 'restore device' run every other year or so. I notice the flaky behavior like you are seeing, sometimes it goes on sometimes not. More likely likely it goes on but won't go back off. Devices in the same gang box, or only a foot or two away work perfectly. This kind of thing tends to happen after a long brown out period. 3) Since many devices seem to be involved, its possible your PLM is going bad. How old is it? Paul