Brian H

As long as it is a simple push button. The intelligent consoles some have. Send power and signals over the same two wires. The I/OLinc acts like a push button and shorts the connections. Most times unless a very short On pulse {.5 seconds comes to mind}. Resets all the consoles displayed information.

I would think one opener. Connecting two to the relay on the I/OLinc would cause both to open and close together. Do your openers have simple push buttons or have an intelligent control panel with displays? In the link you provided. There are manuals avilable for downloading. Also on the page are links to the individual parts where you can see how they work and get their manuals also.

One thing to remember. That may effect what you are wanting to do. After a power loss and power restoration. The 2456S3E defaults to Off even if it was On when the power was lost. The latest 2456S ApplianceLinc also default to Off after a power loss. Also in the Configuration Tab. A Query at power up can be turned On. Mine does.

What are the two LEDs on the network connector indicating?

Testing with no FilterLinc may show everything is OK. Not all devices are a problem. If they where. A FilterLinc would reduce their effects and the On but not Off situation should be better.

Plugging all those electronic devices into the switched outlet on an OutletLinc could also pose a possible problem. If they generate enough noise or absorb enough power line signals. You may get the I can turn it On OK but not Off situation. Where the extra noise when turned On prevents the OutletLinc to go Off. Not that it maybe your solution. I have my UPS in the filtered outlet of a FilterLinc and my PLM in the pass through unfiltered outlet on the FilterLinc.

Probably has a slot so you can get to the SD Card that the older metal cased ones didn't have.

I have seen red italics in mine also. In my case I believe they where RemoteLincs. Windows XP SP3 and all the updates. Java Version 6 Update 33.

No module firmware can not be upgraded to a later revision.

I added an original v1.0 RemoteLinc with Auto Discover. It was found but since we where told not to do that. I removed it after the test.

All three RL2 types are in the special list in the Link Management Tab. Looks like it picks the Cat and Sub Cat IDs from what you choose on the list. I wounder if anyone has used Auto Discover with any success?

Thanks for the tests. That is one more piece of information on the modules. Glad nothing got permanently damaged. When I was doing two way radio repairs. I would get users that said. My fuse blew and I tried a bigger one. Only to do more damage than originally happened. So I tend to be over cautious with over sized fuses.

You said 12 volt halogen lights so testing with them was needed. The 12 volt power supply probably does not like to be on a dimmer and blew its protective fuses. I agree 100% with LeeG. Do not change the fuses to a larger amperage. You could damage the two wire SwitchLinc {though I suspect it has an internal soldered on fuse} or the 12 volt power supply for the lights. The specifications page says uses less than 1 watt of power. That is like 0.00833 amps with a 120 volt line supply.

Shooting RF through the wall will decrease the range. Especially if the wall has things like metal backed insulation in its center. The 50' is direct line of sight no obstructions in between. If the Dual Band Device you are trying to use is something like a Dual Band SwitchLinc. What it is mounted in and its antenna orientation will also effect range.

If they are used in any RF devices like a RemoteLinc it will have to be woken up. I believe the replace feature reminds you to wake them up.

My ISY994i shows 'My Lighting'. If memory serves me. Since I used my latest ISY99i backup to update the ISY994i. Michel told me I may have to correct the 3:00 AM Query All Program. I believe it was the time but again fuzzy memory here.

OH That looks very nice. Thank you for the information.

http://www.universal-devices.com/mwiki/ ... d/Password

They now have a T2491T1E one day programmable with integrated adapter. Not sure if the T1700 integrated model has the jumpers Steve L pointed out but maybe a goo thing to look at. viewtopic.php?f=25&t=9086&p=69268&hilit=Humidity+Sensor#p69268

The ones with the internal adapter maybe different.

Was any new electronic devices added to the home or something moved? Something a simply moving my favorite game console or cell phone charger. Could change things.

I thought the Energy Display is battery only. So the only way to use a AC power supply would be to custom patch one in. Since it is normally battery only. It does go to sleep to conserve the batteries.

OH. If the filter was on the Line side into the OutletLinc. Then you actually reduced the power line signals trying to access it. The filter has to be between the output of the OutletLinc and the load itself.

Yes the internal photos of the 2441T {H adds humidity} in the FCC Database shows the triacs in relation to the thermistor used for the temperature sensing.

You maybe the first to test it. Since it is rated to need at least a 25 watt Incandescent Load as it steals power through the load. You maybe the first to try it.