Brian H

OK Sorry it was not what would assist you. There are others here that may have done what you want to do. I am sure they will provide data on their findings.

The 1626 5 amp FilterLinc was discontinued months ago. Amazon must have some remaining stock. Use the 1626-10 web page. http://www.smarthome.com/1626-10/Filter ... ter/p.aspx Manual covers both the 1626 and 1626-10 versions and indicates it is Insteon Compatible. http://www.smarthome.com/manuals/1626.pdf

1626 is the 5 amp FilterLinc.

The FilterLinc sales page on the Smarthome site shows both X10 and Insteon. The 5 amp FilterLinc is basically a 10 amp one with a smaller internal fuse. From all I could determine comparing a 10 and 5 amp models insides. 1626 is the 5 amp version of the FilterLinc and is what is showing on the Amazon web page you linked to. 1626-10 is the 10 amp version and the only one Smarthome now sells.

Not 100% sure if this can do what you want through the ISY Controller. http://www.smarthome.com/318276I/I-O-Li ... Kit/p.aspx

ISY can not communicate with your router. http://www.universal-devices.com/mwiki/ ... Y.27s_LEDs I have seen mine blink after a power loss sometimes. I think in my case the router may not be totally done booting before the ISY994i tried to communicate with it.

The only exception would be if you wanted a completely independent control of a module. Where none of them where known to the ISY Controllers system at all. Then you could manually link the independent RemoteLinc to a independent device or devices. That would be a completely independent system and could not have any of the devices in the ISY Automation setup. Not sure why any ISY owner would want it but it technically can be done.

My older D-Link DI-604 had a setting to enable uPnP. A spare D-Link EBR-2310 also had an option to enable uPnP. Yours maybe the same.

Many PC power supplies can absorb Insteon power line signal or make power line noise. If the PLM is on the same circuit as the old PC. It can be possible it may effect the PLMs power line signals. Unless the old PC is on a FilterLinc or a similar type filter.

LeeG; Looks like they now are supplying a Seco-Larm SM216Q Large Gap Magnetic Switch. Now for what many call confusing. That switch in my electronic terms is a NO type switch. The state the switch is normally in when not activated. In security uses. It is for an NC Zone as the magnet is next to it when the zone is not violated. I downloaded the Seco-Larm catalog and there are almost no magnetic switches for a NO Zone where the switch is closed with no magnet present.

For the original RemoteLinc that has a place to install a label. I used the custom label template on the sales page. I have not tried to physically mark the buttons on it and don't have a RemoteLinc2 to play with.

There is another problem that frequently is not mentioned. Peek Repetitive Currents. When you chop the AC every time it turns On. The electronics in the bulb have to start recharging their filter capacitors. This brief current surge can be over 20 times the normally running current the bulb uses. That is why Cree, Philips and other manufacturers may tell you my bulb uses 15 watts of power but when adding wattage for a dimmer. Use 115 Watts in the calculations.

Any technical folks that are interested in the device. http://transition.fcc.gov/oet/ea/fccid/ Grantee: SB7 Product Code: AAA Details Tab. Includes schematic and photos.

Interesting concept. Replace one of the batteries in the remote with a battery sized transmitter. That sends to the flying saucer receiver. Here is some information on the IR option for the ISY99i and ISY994i http://www.universal-devices.com/mwiki/ ... R_Tutorial You may want to read the warning on the Smarthome sales page as they also carry it. In both 433 MHz and 418 MHz models. The 433 MHz model has a warning about one of the DirecTv models. As it also uses 433 MHz. The users manuals are on the Smarthome site if you care to look at them. http://www.smarthome.com/8045I/NextGen- ... MHz/p.aspx http://www.smarthome.com/80430/NextGen- ... MHz/p.aspx

There are two IR Modules that I know of that can take an IR command and send an Insteon Command in response. The Smarthome 2411R and the Simplehomenet EZUIRT http://www.smarthome.com/2411R/IRLinc-R ... ter/p.aspx http://www.smarthome.com/31281/EZUIRT-U ... 10H/p.aspx I have no experience in how either one of them works and how well with an ISY99i or ISY994i.

If my web searches where correct. FCC ID MG3 2481 Should be on the remotes label somewhere. It is a Directv Remote and the RF is only used to control their equipment. With a frequency of 433.92 MHz. Insteon is 915 MHz. The other equipment functions appear to be IR signals.

RF? Most are IR. Can you provide more details on the remote being used?

As long as it is a simple push button. The intelligent consoles some have. Send power and signals over the same two wires. The I/OLinc acts like a push button and shorts the connections. Most times unless a very short On pulse {.5 seconds comes to mind}. Resets all the consoles displayed information.

I would think one opener. Connecting two to the relay on the I/OLinc would cause both to open and close together. Do your openers have simple push buttons or have an intelligent control panel with displays? In the link you provided. There are manuals avilable for downloading. Also on the page are links to the individual parts where you can see how they work and get their manuals also.

One thing to remember. That may effect what you are wanting to do. After a power loss and power restoration. The 2456S3E defaults to Off even if it was On when the power was lost. The latest 2456S ApplianceLinc also default to Off after a power loss. Also in the Configuration Tab. A Query at power up can be turned On. Mine does.

What are the two LEDs on the network connector indicating?

Testing with no FilterLinc may show everything is OK. Not all devices are a problem. If they where. A FilterLinc would reduce their effects and the On but not Off situation should be better.

Plugging all those electronic devices into the switched outlet on an OutletLinc could also pose a possible problem. If they generate enough noise or absorb enough power line signals. You may get the I can turn it On OK but not Off situation. Where the extra noise when turned On prevents the OutletLinc to go Off. Not that it maybe your solution. I have my UPS in the filtered outlet of a FilterLinc and my PLM in the pass through unfiltered outlet on the FilterLinc.

Probably has a slot so you can get to the SD Card that the older metal cased ones didn't have.

I have seen red italics in mine also. In my case I believe they where RemoteLincs. Windows XP SP3 and all the updates. Java Version 6 Update 33.