Brian H

Michel; Thanks for the confirmation. I thought that maybe the way it was.

I thought I read in a thread here. That if the communications to the PLM is not working. The ISY99i goes into a safe mode and does not allow programs to be accessed. I did find one thing with my 2413S PLM. As it does not power the ISY99i. I disconnected the 2413S from the wall AC and the ISY99i did not detect the offline PLM or the PLM status changed to disconnected; until I did a reboot. Then the RX LED stayed on and all my programs where hidden in the safe mode. A system Query before the reboot just showed every device failing. With the 2413S disconnected from the AC wall power.

I am quite surprised you have not gotten a response from UDI. Page 58 of the users guide indicates a constant RX led maybe a communications error. You have already tried the suggested resets and power cycle. Did you make sure the interface cable between the PLM and the ISY99i is firmly seated. In the Tools, Diagnostics, PLM Info/Status does it indicate it is connected to the PLM? I am thinking it will show it is not. Your PLM may have failed. UDI or Smarthome may have added ways to determine if the PLM has failed.

What type of lights being controlled by the In-Line Linc Dimmer Switches? Like CFL, Low Voltage with a transformer, LED, standard incandescent bulb. Dimmers types many times do not get along with low voltage lights, CFLs, LED lights. The pulsing and no control when On also indicate you have a load not suitable for the dimmers. When on they are probably making all kinds of power line noise and causing communications problems with the query from your ISY99i. More information on the type of light will help in finding a solution to the problem.

For #2. I would unplug the PLM from the AC Outlet so it and the ISY99i get a power reset.

Yes if set to continuous mode {Default}. It should close the NO to C with an On and open it with an Off. There is a catch. You can program the relay to use reverse logic. An On command can open the NO to C and an Off command can close the NO to C. Look at the Set LED on the module. When you send an off command it should be dim. If it goes bright it is in the reverse logic mode. I believe how it acts depends on the relay being on or off when it was linked to the system. The full description of how it is programmed is in the online full user manual. See the I/OLinc Relay Modes part of the manual. http://wiki.smarthome.com/index.php?tit ... elay_Modes

Congratulations on the total Insteon Installation. I still have a few X10 devices and an X10 address in my modules. Still can't kick the 16 button PalmPad and Chime Module habit. So nice to be able to control each module with a button. No Insteon 16 button remotes are made yet and no Insteon plain old Chime Module either.

Yes it does sound like the one SwitchLinc has a local control problem. I don't think you did anything to it and it has just failed. Do you know the firmware revision of the switches as reported by ISY? Sometimes knowing that can give clues. New Point 1 and 2 maybe related. It sounds like you have a communications problem with some devices. If you have an electric dryer or stove. Try a few scene tests with them on and see if things change. As they can act like a simple phase coupler. Long shot here. Do you know if you home is split single phase? I have seen reports of some new housing developments and apartments being three phase with each unit using two of the three Lines and Neutral. One clue would be if your high power electric appliances are 240 Volt or 208 Volt. 240 is split single phase 208 is two of the three Lines in a three phase feed.

On the SwitchLinc relay switch. The local paddles don't work but it can be controlled by the ISY99i. Is it a new switch or years old? Ther older ones had a local button problem where the internal tact switches stopped working. Smarthome was extending the warranty for replacing bad tact switch SwitchLinc Switches.

Sorry to report. Firmware is not field upgradeable. Smarthome and Smartlabs don't do firmware updates from the field.

Is the internal jumper on or off in the TriggerLinc? If it is ON then a simple on and off is sent. If it is Off it sends scene one and scene two. http://wiki.smarthome.com/index.php?tit ... c_Features Is it linked to two scenes where the light action is controlled? One for TriggerLinc On and the other TrigerLinc Off.

More like the surge into the transformer when first powered on or the possible inductive spike when turned off. I am not sure what Smartlabs added across the relay contacts to protect them. I know the ApplianceLincs have a RC Snubber network across the contacts; or at least the new ones do. The old one did not.

Dane; Is the PLM a 2412S or 2413S? Yes a complete restart is needed If you have a 2412S when you unplug it from the wall and then plug it back in. A complete restart will happen. With a 2413S I would disconnect both the ISY99i's external power supply and the PLM from the AC outlet. Then power the ISY99i and PLM back on. Check the pins in the PLMs connector. There have been some with pins not making good contact. Also that the cable is firmly inserted between the PLM and the ISY99i. Here is a link to the Full Users Manual you may find a help. http://www.universal-devices.com/docs/i ... rguide.pdf As you found out. Diagnostics is in the Tools Area.

I see the Weather Bug message myself from time to time. I believe it means the data was not received when requested. I think sometimes my WB site is down or just misses sending the data back. Do you get this allot?

Simon; It may depend on the switching power supply itself and how it is constructed. The 5 volt 500ma one from my ISY-26 is fine. As is the 5 volt 1 amp from Smarthome with my 2413S PLM kit. Though it has a very snug fitting connector on the output connection. Looks like it has a locking indentation for a firm fit. I have done some signal and noise tests with a good X10 meter and signal source. Some supplies absorb signals and some make power line noise. Since Insteon is not that far away frequency wise. I would expect similar results if there was a good method to test Insteon signals. So it may depend on which supply you purchase. I have a surplus Cannon CA-590 8.4 volt 0.6 amp and a Ericsson 5 volt 1 amp supply I may try on my ISY-99i with a 2413S as a test. As it can accept a fairly broad range of input voltage on the external jack. http://forum.universal-devices.com/viewtopic.php?t=3593

Where did you ever find a 2.0mm center pin connector? I have only seen 2.1mm and 2.5mm center pins with a 5.5mm barrel.

I used the one from my ISY26 and it fit fine. The one from Smarthome didn't seem to want to fit my ISY99i. So you are NOT alone. The one from Smarthome kind of fit but was so TIGHT; I was afraid it would get stuck and may break the jack of the ISY99i. My supply from Smarthome is a MLF Brand. MLF-005W0501000-C I think UDI will have to clarify if more than one external power jack was used. I know that there are two 5.5MM outside barrel types. One has a 2.1MM pin the other a 2.5MM pin. In my case I took a 5.5MMX2.1MM from my spare parts bin and it fit my older ISY99i external power jack and ISY-26

Yes since the ISY99i isn't going go do much as it uses the PLM to do all the controlling of all the modules in the Insteon Network. Can you describe not working. Is the power LED On? Any other symptoms. In the diagnostics tab what does the Show PLM Info/Status indicate? Make sure the cable between the PLM and ISY99i is firmly connected. I have an external supply with my 2413S Dual Band PLM. 5 volts 500MA from my old ISY26 setup. The 2412S PLM supplies a unfiltered 12 volts that is used by the ISY99i.

Even though not on the exact same plug. Are all the devices on the same branch circuit? Like one breaker would turn all of the devices off and on. It is very possible the iMacs power supplies are either making line noise or are signal absorbers. The Drobo supplies may also. I do know most computer power supplies and surge strips can be problems with power line signals.

You are welcome. It does sound like it has a hardware problem and calling Smarthome sound like a good idea.

I don't know if it has to be removed and added back. A factory reset will clear out all the setting in the I/OLinc so maybe a restore through ISY is all that is needed.

If you disconnect the magnetic switch from the S and G terminals. Does the LED still stay on? If it does I would suspect the sensor input on the I/OLinc has failed. If you have a multimeter. From S to G, with no connections, should be close to +5 Volts. In my tests of I/OLincs. I found that <1V>1 volt made the LED Glow but not trigger the sensor input. About 800 Ohms or less from S to G triggered the input. You may want to try a Factory Reset on the off chance the controller chip is confused and set the signal pin it uses for an input to an output.

They also go into power saving mode and you could not access it to change its state.

Sounds like they did the math for you. When fully loaded 500 watts on the AC Input with 400 watts for the 12 volt lights on the load side.

Yes the light bulb is resistive and the voltage and current are in phase with each other. Inductive and the current lags the voltage by 90 degrees in a perfect world. If the supply is a transformer and not one of those new electronic ones. I would expect it to be an Inductive load. This current lagging the voltage maybe why some modules have a different rating for inductive loads. I didn't see one for the SWL or just plain missed it.