Brian H

I found my rough sketch of a 2430 supply area. The C2 470uF/35V is the 30 volt main supply and the 30V Zener diode is across the cap. The black mark on the bottom is probably that diode getting warm. I have seen this before. It is used for the power line transmitters power. The C4 100uF/16V is in the +5 volt logic supply used by the electronics.

My bad. I would suspect the larger one as it is in the main supply. Though would not hurt do do both as a safe thing to do.

I remember your post and fix. For the 2430 ControLinc Maxi. I would at least look at the board and see if it has a similar problem. Maybe try a new capacitor. My thoughts where with the cap not working correctly. There was too much ripple current in the diodes. The black rectangular diode next to the large capacitor is a zener diode seen in many of the older Insteon devices.

On mine I had to get far enough away from the Dual Band PLM to do anything with it. Like put it into the linking mode near a Dual Band device on the other end of the house away from the PLM. So all the signaling had to go through that device and the PLM did not receive it by RF and used the power lines.

I don't use any that dim. I use all relay type Insteon modules as I am from a past where LED bulbs did not dim. Though the old one I still use have local control sensing and some pulse at a few second rate.

I have seen bulb manufacturers change a hardware design and not change the description. That can effect how a dimming style LED bulb works.

The 2450 is power line only. So it has to be with in RF communications range of USB Dongle. To a dual band module that can communicate on the power line to the 2450. The 2450 also had a switching power supply chip in it and depending on its age. May have a failing supply or is the original I1 signaling standard. That used a large amount of peeks and pokes to do one link. If you have an extra dual band plug in module. You can try and plug it into the outlet on the front of the 2450 and see if anything changes to link it.

The UDI Wiki has lots of tips, videos and how to pages. The ISY Cookbook available there is also a great help. Along with the users here. https://wiki.universal-devices.com/index.php?title=Main_Page

You may want to look at their web page drivers tab. I don't have a Polisy so I can't say if any of them are compatible. https://www.aten.com/us/en/products/usb-peripherals/usb-converters/uc232a/?source=google

Even at fast On and Off with a full On setting, on a dimmer is not a god way to go. There is still a possibility it may not play well with an inductive load. Unless it has an OK for a dimmer ratting. There is also a short time at Zero Crossing where the output is distorted. When turning on between the cycles. Switching from positive and negative.

Since it also has a small switching supply chip and probably a cap with out good ERS properties. It may have had a failing power supply? I have 6 on off modules and one still in the box. Where from the plastic case cracking time and are all in the to be recycled bin. As they where not safe when you unplugged them and the whole case came off and the powered up guts where all there to be touched.

We have seen new from the factory having test stuff in them including some with X10. Most do a factory reset as you mentioned to start with a clean state.

The modules do have memory in them. Links and other things. That can sometimes get corrupted, The ISY994i has a feature that can read the modules link database and then a compare feature to see if they natch what should be in it.

I have also seen features mentioned in the Developers Group before it was suddenly removed. That didn't work correctly or implemented not to what was published. Siren and Alert modules where two of them, UDI had to do its best to implement as Smartlabs was totally silent on them.

No click most likely is the internal relay not going on and off. If the one clicking does not control the purple output wires. It may have failed. If you are real careful you could measure each purple to a safety ground. Should be roughly 120VAC from each purple wire to ground an 220 VAC purple to purple.

You maybe able to use the Link a RemoteLinc 2. Choice in the Link Menu. With a new name. Then click on the old module listed in the Administrative Console and pick replace with choice. Using the now remotes name you gave it. It should change the links in the modules it controls and any of them in the Administrative Console. If it is in a folder it may have to be moved first. It also has to be awake for changes to be made. I did see a repair post on the Smarthome site I believe. The remote was popped open and a replacement battery was soldered in to the battery connection pads.

The folks on the X10 Forums. Also have had good results with the Dimming Stabilizer. With their two wire dimmers.

The UDI WKI has all kinds of videos and documentation you will find interesting and helpful. Along with all the very knowledgeable members here. https://wiki.universal-devices.com/index.php?title=Main_Page After a factory reset of the modules and then add them into the Administrative Console. As you write programs. The controller will do all the linking between the modules and the controller. Along with any links between module if they can control each other. After you get it running. You can get the controllers info and see if it has the PRO or other optional module in it.

Make sure the two TTL signals are not connected to anything.

One way to disable the +12V is take the F1 fuse off of the 2412S serial port daughter board. No cable mods needed. The +12 sill is used to power the internal serial or USB port daughter board. On both a 2412 and 2413 PLM.

You may find more information here. https://coil32.net/design/color-marking.html I looked at a SynchroLinc. Mine has three round style coils. On top Brown then Black on the one side Red and the other side looks like Silver. Like the ones in your photo. I would think all three would read close to each other. Unless the connected circuitry effected it. I would check for the proper entry in the PLM database as we have seen messages missed if the PLM does not have the link in it. Also it is power line only so maybe a noise or signal absorber recently added to the home.

They are small coils or inductors. The dots are the value of the part. I have never seen one go bad. Measure them with a meter and see if they have resistance. Since it is a Smarthome product I always suspect the filter caps. Especially if it has a LINK354 switching supply on it. The photo is maybe an Imeter Solo or Synchro Linc? You may also want to look at the current sensing shunt on the Neutral Output from the board to the outlet. If it is completely dead. There is a safety fuse in the shrink tubing. From the AC Line input fuse to the AC Line input to the board.

The 2412S has a liner transformer style power supply. It also has unregulated +12VDC on the serial port connection. You may find you ISY994i runs just fine with no external wall wart and a 2412S. If you have both. The ISY994i has a diode on each power input so only the higher of the two voltages is powering it. The 2413S has a switching type power supply and had capacitors not rated for switching power supply use. Until the recently released revisions. They where known for failures. From the switching frequency used by the supply (200KHz.) and the temperature probably didn't help either. Later ones also have a better serial port interface chip and some signal protection on the serial port signals.

Factory reset has two procedures. Depending on early or later design. Pull the set button out. To open the Air Gap switch in it and wait at least ten seconds. Then push it all the way in. On the earlier ones with no internal beeper. Hold it in for thee seconds. Then release the set button. The ones with the beeper. Keep holding the set button in until the beeper stops beeping then release the set button.

Over the years. There have been a few reports of poor serial port pin connections.