
Brian H
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Everything posted by Brian H
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My Pi Zero. Has a separate USB connector a power supply plugs into. That has a matching plug on it. The other USB connector is for communication with it.
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2842-222 is the original Motion Sensor. Category 10, Subcategory 01 2844-222 is the Motion Sensor II. Category 10, Subcategory 16. You did link them with the Sensors List in the Link Menu and pick Motion Sensor II? If you added them in another way or picked Motion Sensor and not Motion Sensor II in the list. That may give some clues. If it was added as an original Motion Sensor. The features you wanted are probably not available.
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If you don't have a PRO. Adding that feature would increase the number of links. I believe it also increases the nodes. If you have the PRO already. Then you have hit the limit. You could ask UDI in a support question. If they don't find it here. https://www.universal-devices.com/contact-us/
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https://www.universal-devices.com/docs/production/ISY User Guide 4.2.8.pdf https://wiki.universal-devices.com/index.php?title=Main_Page The connection from the ISY994i serial connector to a 2413S PLM is a CAT5e network style cable. Your ISY994i kit should have had the main unit, a power supply, 2 CAT5e Network cables and a Quick Users Guide. Not a normally seen DB9 serial cable. The pin out diagram and signals are shown in the 2413S PLM quick users guide. Only the RS232 Out, RS232 In and Common Ground are used. The TTL level signals are not used in this setup. https://cache-m2.smarthome.com/manuals/2413Sqs.pdf The 2413S PLM did come with a Network RJ45 connector to DB9 connector cable buried in the box. With only three signals RS232 Out,RS232 In and Common Ground carried through. In this case it is not used.
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In the blog post linked to. A reply said theirs was different and only had a 1000uF/25V, 470uF/50V. There is also a 100uF/6.3V. If they looked at the part number of the module. That is the older 2412U power line only model. Many of us started off with the 2412S. Before the 2413S was produced. If you have an original 2413S Hardware V1.0. The board will not look the same as in the photos and the power supply will have rework on it to add to the power supplies connections. A coil and both C7 and C13 are hanging above the board and a wire will be running to the solder side of the module. You may also see C7 and C13 in yours laying on their side. With the leads connecting to the board. The 100uF/50V caps used by Smarthome. Where physically too large to fit directly into the connection pads.
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The main board is the same in both the Serial and USB versions. The difference is probably what it reports when asked its ID. With a different Sub Category Number and a USB or Serial Port Daughter Board. Five electrolytic capacitors. The ones that fail. Since the power supply is a switching type and the capacitors where questionable. Starting with V2.3. C7 and C13 where changed to a version rated for switchers and maybe longer lasting. The daughter board in the serial version has one electrolytic on its 5 volt regulator for its logic power, 100uF 16V. Also four 1uF 25V for the serial interface chips internal power supply. They could be changed but I don't think they are a high failure part. Most of the users don't change them. I also saw a post awhile back on the serial interface chip failing. In V2.4 the daughter board was redone and they added some protective components on the serial signals from the outside world along with a chip with better ESD protection ratings. I don't have much information on the USB version. So it may have two electrolytic capacitors on its daughter board. That board was also in the 2443 Access Points Hardware V2.0 and above. I had a pair have the same power supply failures as my 2413S PLM.
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If the 2443 is a hardware V2.0 or higher. It is built on the same 2413 base PLM assembly and has the same power supply issues the 2413S PLM we use. I also had strange issues until I rebuilt mine. That failed. The older V1.? one are on a different main assembly and do not have the same power supply issue.
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Did the distributor indicate the ISY was discontinued or they have decided to no longer sell it? The 2413S PLM maybe a harder thing to find. Not sure when the Smarthome PLM Pro in the FCC Database will be available or if it is going to replace the 2413S. Due to the world wide electronic parts shortages. Unless you are doing Z-Wave and don't need a PLM.
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The 2413U USB model. Uses the exact same commands, link database, power line and RF receivers and transmitters. As the 2413S PLM does. It is accessed by a USB cable for its connection to the outside world. The 2413S PLM uses serial communications. It should act like a Dual Band module. Like any other Dual Band module when connected to the AC. I have an older 2413S in a plug just sending and receiving power line and RF Insteon signals it sees. When the PLM starts having a power supply issue. Sometimes its link database looses links. So commands and modules may not be processed. In the Insteon forums. I did see some information on the serial interface chip having problems. In that case the ISY994i may have problems talking to the PLM. Long thread 25 pages when I looked. If you are technical enough to rebuild it. https://forum.universal-devices.com/topic/13866-repair-of-2413s-plm-when-the-power-supply-fails/
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Long time members may remember (I do). There was a UDI Serial port PLM being developed years ago. Was up to the early prototype stage hardware made. When Smartlabs/Smarthome did a 180 degree turn and would not provide the promised programmed chips to run it. Basically hanging UDI out to dry.
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The 2442-222 HUB I saw a modification photo of. Had the separate Network board removed and had what looked like a 2413S serial port daughter board wired to the control board. I don't know if they also redid the firmware in the main processor and maybe the RF processor. The 2445-222 HUB the network interface is on the same control board.
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The serial port daughter board. Has a RS232 interface chip. MAX232 in <V2.3 and a MAX232EI (better ESD specification) in >V2.3. 2.4 Also added a input protection network on the two serial signals. It also has two TTL level signals on it. Though it is not protected at all. The signals tie to the TTL signals on the serial port chip and no buffer or protection at all from the outside world.
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In the FCC Database. Smartlabs has a replacement for the 2413S PLM. 2234-223 serial version 2234-222 USB Much better specifications. Like universal power supply, larger link database, faster clock, better RF and power line signal processing . Serial and USB versions where shown. Now will it ever see the light of day. That is another unknown.
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2 wire switches in a 3 pole
Brian H replied to noobmuch's topic in New user? Having trouble? Start here
The 2474D has to get its power through the load and should NOT be wired to control an outlet. As a dimmer is not allowed to control an outlet where someone could plug in an incorrect load. Like a fan. It only has a Black Line and Red Load wire. If you capped off the Red wire. It would have no way to get power. Is the other switch an Insteon dimmer with the three wires? Black Line, White neutral and Red Load by chance? -
2 wire switches in a 3 pole
Brian H replied to noobmuch's topic in New user? Having trouble? Start here
The 2474 two wire switch. Steals it power through the load and designed for incandescent loads only. Other dimmable loads may or may not play nice with the switch. It is also Insteon RF only as it has no power line sending and receiving. It only has two power wires and ground. Line and Load no Neutral connection. Not 100% on this but do remember seeing it also can not work in a three way setup. -
Insteon Circuit with 2 Switches
Brian H replied to DSchaffer's topic in New user? Having trouble? Start here
There are more than one way to wire a three way switch in a home. Depending on where the load and line are connected. Along with the traveler wires between the two switch locations. So tracing the connections is sometimes needed. Good you where able to wire it from the diagram in the manual. Not all setups could be wired like in the manual. -
Was the LampLinc the older 2456D power line only one by chance?
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Do you have any controls now? Like their manual wall switch or optional RF control kit?
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You may want to try the Dual Band module. Plugged into the I/OLincs front pass through outlet. Yes you should be able to use the Manual Linking feature in the modules. Using the modules set buttons. To link the I/OLincs Sensor Input to the 2466S. Looking at the modules full users manuals will give you the information. You may have to pay attention to the 2466S state when linked. As you can actually link a module into a manual scene. Where an On would have the module linked to be Off.
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I saw that posted in the local news. It is enabled by default and you have to opt out.
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If the LED on the PLM is not On. That is one sign of a 2413S PLM failures. As its power supply has failed to the point nothing is working. If you are in a Safe Mode. That would also indicate the PLM has failed. In the Safe Mode. Some features are not available. I don't think you lost all of the programs. You will have to run the PLM replacement procedure to write the new PLM Insteon ID Number into all of the Insteon modules in use. Power down the ISY994i and old PLM. Connect the replacement PLM to the ISY994i. Power up the PLM and ISY994i so it is found during power up. Use the Restore Modem (PLM) function to write the new PLM ID into the modules. If you have a PRO model you can turn off automatic writes to battery powered devices. So you can restore each one individually as battery powered module have to be its programming mode first.
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If you want to do what cpamario did and have no pump controller. Wanting it controlled by Insteon. You would not need a pump controller. You would need one of the Smartenit modules and a six conductor wire from the Smartenit module to the variable speed pump. I found a installation guide. If the pump has a waterproof connector on the side of the pump. The cable mentioned in the Smarthome post would be a good idea. There is more information in his Smarthome Forum post. https://forum.smarthome.com/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=20867 MrBill's interface also sounds interesting.
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Thank you for the clarification on the Diode V reading. I got out my DMM users manual and looked at the display. For the Diode test. Sure enough the displayed number is the forward voltage drop on the diode being tested. Thanks again on the proper information.
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In may ~60 years of being an Electronic Technician. I have never seen a diode tested using the V reference. I used my meters ohms or Diode Test setting. So I have seen a new way to list a diodes test information. That was why I asked if you where powering things as voltage to me means powered up. If you are getting close to the same in both directions. Does sound like they are shot. Garbage or electronic recycle sound like a good way to go.