Brian H

You may want to look at page #5 and #7 of this thread. For internal photos of a V1.0 2413S The V1.0 2413S has rework in the power supply. The C7, C13 and a coil are hanging off the board . Along with a fly wire going to the solder side of the main board. To me it looked like originally only had one capacitor and no small coil in it. For filtering. I would use a quality capacitor (Low ESR and rated for a switching power supply) in it. I would say stick with the 10uF 35V or 50V for C7 and C13 due to the way they are sticking over the main board (see the pictures on the noted pages). The rest of the list should be OK. I am just not too sure about the size of the 100uF 35V or 50V physically fitting.

V2.5 has the improved series capacitors and new serial port daughter board. By chance. Is the PLM on the same branch circuit. As some computing equipment or AC input side of an UPS?

This also applies to the presently sold ISY994i https://wiki.universal-devices.com/index.php?title=ISY-99i/ISY-26_INSTEON:Red_Exclamation_Mark

As pointed out. The WIKI has all kinds of information in it. https://wiki.universal-devices.com/index.php?title=Main_Page

If your last PLM was a Version 2.5 (The latest reported) or 2.4. They have new capacitors rated to be in a switching power supply and new Daughter Board with ESD protection for the I/O signals and serial chip. V2.3 the new capacitors and older daughter board. It sounds like you could have some noise or signal sucking on the power lines at times. Anything new electronically in the house or maybe moved an existing device to a new location?

I too would recommend all your Insteon linking and scene setup be done through the ISY994i interface with its 2413S PLM. If you want some information on how Insteon works. The Insteon White paper is still available. http://www.insteon.it/documentation/insteon_details.pdf Developers Guide. http://cache.insteon.com/developer/developer-guide-022009-en.pdf PLM. http://cache.insteon.com/pdf/INSTEON_Modem_Developer's_Guide_20071012a.pdf Some of the information in the files maybe dated. Like X10 support. Many of the latest revision modules removed X10 support. The X10 two wire dimmers stole power through the load. Except for the Insteon two wire dimmer for incandescent bulbs only. The wall switches need a Neutral power connection. So you may want to see if you have a Neutral in the locations where you want an Insteon Switch.

I do remember seeing a few Bridge devices in the FCC Database but can't find them in my archives at the moment. I think I downloaded the files. I did find added to the FCC Database date of 10/29/2019 for the 2234-222 and 2234-223 modules. As SBP22342

I doubt it is for Europe only. Why would they look for FCC approval if not being sold in the USA? When the European Standards authorities would be the ones needing approval.

There is a new 2234-222 USB and 2234-223 Serial PLM replacement in the FCC Database. Expanded Link Database from ~1000 to ~4000. Universal power supply 100 to 240VAC 50/60Hz. RAM is faster speed for faster access. FCC photos show what looks like an AC input plug as a separate assembly. Mounted to the back of the main case. My thoughts future models maybe available for other country's standards. So the ISY994i should be fine.

If you want to use the Motion Sensor II or Siren Modules to name two. Not supported in the 4.x firmware.

I think they got hit with Covid19 issues. Like many other manufacturers did. I suspect new modules in the works. Got delayed and the older modules sold out. Before the new models got into the production and sales stream. Though it sounds like Richmond Capital Partners was going in a new direction and how Insteon fits the new direction. Who knows?

No it is made to go between the two incoming power lines. Usually around 220VAC. To couple the power line signal from one line to the other line. It does not pass the AC voltage between the two lines or from one of its leads to the other lead. It is a passive device and the ISY994i will not see it.

Diode is also on the ELK 912. I had thought they where going to try a plain 12VDC relay not an assembled board with protection.

If you go for a 12 volt relay it would be wise. To have a reverse polarity diode across the relays coil. To suppress the voltage spike when the relay is turned off. The ELK-912 has the diode on it as part of the assembly.

The LED may have a resistor in series with it to limit the current through the LED to a safe level. How it is connected and where you try a relay may be determined by which side of the resistor you use or if it will not effect how bright the LED flashes. I would also not use a relay that had too high a coil current needed to operate it. Maybe a small electronic assembly. That drives a relay and triggered by a application of a voltage to its control input.

7-zip worked on mine. PKUNZIP only showed nothing in the in the backup zip file. That did have a file size. When you unzip it. You will find it has another zip file in it. Unzipping the second file. It will have data in a CONF sub folder.

Sounds encouraging. Let us know the results after a test period.

The Sensor and Magnet both have an arrow on them. For correct orientation . From your photo. I see the set button through the top cover. So you don't have to take it off to push it. That is the later 2843-222. The my ISY994i calls it a 2441. When I added one for a test.

It is a sealed magnetic reed relay as mentioned earlier. Are the brackets metal? Steel or any other metal a magnet attracts? The Magnet and Sensor look like they are mounted on metal brackets. That can effect how things work and the RF transmission distance to an Insteon RF receiver. The LED on the sensor. Should flash each time the magnet turns the sensor on or off. As a test. You can connect a switch to the external switch input of the sensor. Leaving the magnet away from the sensor. Then open and close the external test switch and see if it sends more reliably.

I did read your posts. Sorry my post was not clear. My statement was meant to say. They function the first time OK and again after a few cycles. If you can see them. Does the LED flash on the module even when the messages are missing?

I looked at the Quick Guide for the 2421 and full manual for the new part number 2843-222. It seems that module doesn't have a communications test. So that is out. Is the two pin jumper in the sensors board On or Off? When Off it sends an On to Scene 1 and an Off to Scene 2. From your findings of OK first time and intermittent the next times. I would think the jumper is on but I figured I would ask any way. The module is not mounted on metal is it or obstructions between the module and a module receiving the RF commands? Manual indicates up to 150 Feet with no interference or obstructions in the RF path.

Battery operated Insteon Module. Do go into a power saving mode. To save the battery's life. Where it will not respond to a query from the ISY994i. When you ether open or close it. It should wake up and send the Open or Closed message. It sounds like you have poor communications. How far away is a Dual Band Module to receive the modules message. Have you done the communications tests built into the Dual Band module receiving the RF signal and other Dual Band Modules or the PLM?

Let us know how it goes. As pointed out. The detector you linked to was a Voltage Detector.

The 2450 I/OLinc has a 5 volt sensing signal on it. When you pull it to Ground the Sensor Input is ON. It is not designed to have an external voltage applied to it. Putting an external voltage on it could cause problems. If you have a voltage sensor that gives a dry closure to the 2450's Sensor Input to Ground. That should work.

The lamps are hard wired not plugged in? The Micro Dimmers Sense Wires can't be connected together and opened back up to control the connected load. The Sense 1 wire is connected to the AC Line to activate it and disconnect the Sense 1 Wire to turn it off. You can see the connections in the full users manual. Available on the Smarthome sales page if you have not downloaded it yet. So your wiring would be different than you thought it would be. AC Line to one of the Local Switches terminals and out to the Line Input on the Micro Dimmer. Neutral to the Micro Dimmers Neutral. Other terminal of the Local Switch to Sense 1 of the Micro Dimmer and cap Sense 2 of the Micro Dimmer.