Brian H

You can purchase it directly from the Administrative Console. Help Tab Manage. Modules Choice. It tells you what options are installed and what you can purchase. It is a update you purchase and then UDI enables it directly. Some like the IR addition also send you a small IR board you have to install yourself.

Factory Reset on Insteon modules. Can also depend on the age and firmware in the modules. Like the original 2476S Relay Switch. Has no Air Gap Switch and a completely different Factory Reset procedure. Some used the Set Button power cycle for reset with beeper or before beeper. The latest firmware moved to the Flow Chart and LED colors sequences. Also seem the older model/firmware manuals have disappeared from the web. So it can be hard to find the correct procedure.

Sounds like the ISY99i is a Pro model and the ISY994i is not a Pro model. Did you exchange the ISY99i with an Upgrade to ISY994i? If it was an upgrade. You may want to see if UDI has any options to move the Pro from the ISY99i to the ISY994i. Try clicking on the module and wake it up. Then see if there is a Write Updates choice shown.

If the power strip has some surge suppression and a capacitor across the AC Line input. It maybe absorbing the Insteon power line signals. So can computing equipment, UPS units and other electronic devices. Some times unplugging things and testing again. Can find the offender. So the plug in module maybe using Insteon RF commands if the power line ones are not stable. The outlet in the wall box maybe not also receiving the Insteon RF. As RF sometimes can be spotty. FilterLinc has to go on the device making the power line noise or signal sucking. I have one on my UPS in the filtered outlet and my PLM in the unfiltered outlet on the front.

The new ISY994i unit will have a different UUID from the original ISY994i. You may have to update the settings Stu pointed out.

Any particular modules in mind? Some maybe limitations in the modules firmware. Local Ramp Rate, Scene Ramp Rate?

Yes Though the RF distance between devices. Can be effected by distance, what maybe between them and if the 2477D is in a metal electrical box.

I have not seen anyone extending the internal temperature sensor out side the case. It should work. One thing to do if you try it. The sensor has bare leads on it as it normally is inside the case. I would put some insulated tubing on the bare leads and some shrink tube where the short wires are soldered to it.

I also think the case is a very poor design. Even if you firmly grip the top case and pull it out. The AC prongs and the back of the case can't be held onto so it helps taking the strain off of the mounting studs.

We have see others finding factory test links not removed before shipping. Many here always do a Factory Reset on new modules before installing.

Thanks for sharing. Looks like the plastic in the case is not that rugged. I hope you are not the start of a new Insteon case issues. As the same basic case is in the LampLinc, On/Off, Range Extender,Alert, Siren and I believe the latest hardware First Alert modules. If push came to shove with Smarthome/Smartlabs. You could have reported it to the Consumer Protection Commission of the US government. Live AC exposed to unsuspecting users is a safety problem. Not every user would have the where with all to turn Off the circuit before trying to remove the exposed electronics.

The internal photos of almost all Insteon modules. Are in the FCC Database if any one ever wanted to see them.

You could also use a current sensor. To detect when the pump is drawing current running. I know a CT800 can trigger an I/OLinc http://cocoontech.com/forums/page/articles/_/tutorials/home-automation-tutorials/how-to-monitor-the-status-of-your-appliances-using-current-sensors-r58

Did you Garage Door Kit have the original NC and NO contact magnetic switch? That you didn't have to use the reverse sensor function?

The Query sees the real sensor status and not the reverse trigger status. Most replace the magnetic switch with a proper set of contacts. When this happens. This started happening when Smarthome cheapened up the Garage Door Kits contents. The original magnetic switch has both a NC and NO set of contacts. So you did not have to use the Trigger Reversed setting. https://www.smarthome.com/seco-larm-sm-226l-3-magnetic-garage-door-contact-switch.html

In your post. In the Event Log. I see the PLM getting the command to send an Insteon message and the PLM sending an ACK that it was valid and sent. I do not see any SRX Standard Message or ERX Extended Insteon Message received back from the module. You may want to double check the six digit Insteon ID on the label and see if it is correct. I have misread a few myself. You may also want to try the other method of adding it. Start Linking Hold Set Button on the 2472D until it links. Stop the Start Linking function and see it it will then be added.

The original RemoteLinc had its six digit Insteon ID number inside the battery compartment. On the lower bottom inside case. I saw many posts on where is the ID as the manuals never gave a clue where it was. I also got a few of the short lived X10 replacement modules. That where actually Insteon modules {they accepted X10 at that time} with the original labels removed but still had the Insteon firmware in them. Most added to my ISY-994i with the Start Linking method. Only the ControlLinc had to go the indirect manual link to a module. Then compare links in the module to what the ISY994i thought should be there.

The Insteon Micro Modules have a sense input. Maybe someone has experience with those type modules.

I have seen a few of the later modules. Using a much better label. Looks more like a plastic label and laser printing. Many of the other Insteon Modules. If the label got damaged. You could use the Start Linking Method to add them. I have a database for Insteon. Every new module I note the Model Number, Hardware Version, Date Code and Firmware version reported by the Administrative Console in my ISY994i. To a ID number I assign to it and put a sticker on the case.

The older 2476S SwitchLinc Relay modules also do not have a Air Gap Switch. To kill the AC Line when pulled out. Had a 100% different method to do a factory reset. From the later hardware versions.

Switch has probably failed. Power supply comes to mind. If still in the two year warranty. Call customer service and arrange an exchange for a new one.

I have a low cost RF Spectrum Analyzer. I can see the RF bursts but not enough to decode. I can coax my scanner to listen to the 915MHz but all I hear is bursts. There is some data here. Though even when I was in the developers Group. NAD and all. I don't believe the information may have been there. The update white papers maybe some help. I don't believe it was updated recently enough to cover I2CS. Insteon with Check Sum messaging http://www.insteon.com/technology/

Sorry for the delay. Big storm. No power for twenty four hours. Batteries in the phone company. Small equipment building down the road. Only keeps them alive for maybe an hour. I still am on DSL. I believe the values of C3 C11 and C8. Are also used in the 2413S PLM. So you should be able to use the part numbers for the values. The 10uF400V was used in the PLM if memory serves me. It fit my PLM and I believe it will on the 2450 I/OLinc/ C7 is the one that is in the switching supply and should be the 220uF/50 volt if possible. Both the first change 10uF/50V and 220uF/50 volt are physically to large. Have to be mounted horizontally to the PCB and the leads bent at a ninety degrees

Thanks for the photos. After looking at it. I found my observations where incorrect. C3 is the 6.8uF/250V not C4. I will have to update my information file to correct the C3 misread.

1. I believe C3,C11 and C8 are the same values as the 2413S. Though the C numbers on the PCB silk screening may not match each other. The new part numbers going by old and new value picked should match. {1-4} C7 is the only capacitor in the main power supply and not in a pi {capacitor, coil, capacitor } configuration. Like the 2413S. Just one capacitor for the main power supply. It was a 10Uf/25V in my 1.0. Changed to a 10uF/50V in my 1.8. The 2.3 has a 220uF/50V. If your is a 10uF I would go for the new value of 220uF/50V. The power supply is around 21VDC that is on the low side of the 24 volt relay voltage tolerance. The 10uF voltage goes even lower when the relay coil current is being supplied. With the 220uF it stays at 21VDC. It will not fit on the PCB in the normal position. It is horizontal to the PCB and the legs are bent at about 90 degrees. Small dab of component glue holding it place. C7 is the one that is on the switching supply and is the one most critical. Should be low ESR or rated for a switching supply output. I don't off hand have a part number for it as it is not a value in a 2413S. 2. Just a someone tampered with this screw indicator. 3. I have seen the white stuff on my modules also. I think it is leftover residue from the cleaning. Maybe that ROHS not real lead solder.