Teken

Understood but other variables need to be taken into account not just square footage. Since you live in Ontario (humid) when compared to other parts of Canada. A lot comes down to how you use the bathroom and the relative humidity you're comfortable with having etc. As many people know mold and (sweating) in the winter time is due to excessive moisture in the atmosphere. Unless you have a method to measure the humidity in the bathroom you should always try to shoot for 50% or less. Most folks just run the fan for 30 - 40 minutes after a shower / bath which is OK if you're just guessing. The reality is many people never run the fan while taking that shower / bath and simply activate the fan afterwards. This is incorrect and speeds up the natural process of water resistant dry wall from breaking down and molding etc. What should be done is operate the fan when taking that bath / shower and let it continue to run (either) until the humidity is at the level expected or operate it 30 - 45 minutes afterwards. In my home I don't even have to think about it as its all automated and the sensors in the bathrooms and around various parts of the building all monitor the temperature and humidity.

That is not very much CFM's so consider running it a bit longer when you dial it down with the fan linc etc. 1.4 Sones is pretty quiet so it will be a more so (ideally) when you dial it down. Keeping in mind some motors tend to hum even though they indicate they can be adjusted with a dial etc. If this fan is intended for a washroom (toilet) and not a bathroom (shower / tub) then you may want to consider a inline exhaust fan. The benefit of these units are they can be located far away from the point of use and be very quiet while providing tremendous CFM upwards to 800 plus CFM's

NO ETA on the UDI built version so just purchase one directly from Smarthome. Keep in mind you can follow the repair guide also listed in this forum so you will have a back up should it ever be required. Repair thread: http://forum.universal-devices.com/topic/13866-repair-of-2413s-plm-when-the-power-supply-fails/?hl=%2Bplm+%2Brepair

How many CFM / SONE's does this fan indicate?

Your firmware and UI need to match so please clear out your Java cache as indicated by the steps to upgrading. Please also install the correct Admin Console to ensure reliable performance and access. Lastly, given the amount of electronics and investment in Insteon its a good idea to install a whole house surge protector (SPD). It should also be noted your house policy should be updated to reflect the extra (value) and equipment present in the home. The only thing that will make you whole is a comprehensive insurance policy that covers all aspects of the home, valuables, and infrastructure.

It may be as simple as rebooting the system and logging back in and you should see it in the device tree. I've seen this happen quite a few times before. Ideals are peaceful - History is violent

With respect to your weather question it really comes down to how close the station is in relations to your local area. Some weather stations can be 25 - 100's of miles from your location which may not accurately reflect the weather. This is more of a concern with rain data because relying on a station that has rain - but your local areas doesn't can waste precious resources etc. For general ambient temperatures the weather module is OK for that purpose. Those who require hyper local weather data tend to deploy a much more expansive solution such as the Davis Vantage Pro units. Doing so allows the end user to send that local data to HAM (this is the weather service UDI uses) but allows the local weather station to report it via the ISY Series Controller. I just wanted to call out those few tid bits for you . . .

LOL, well played . . . That really made my day thanks!

I believe most people can appreciate that life is a balance of risk vs reward(s). A person will need to weigh out what fits their lifestyle, needs, environment. From there I would think most people would do some research in the area of concern and like Paul Bates follow known best practices in those endeavors. In my past life force protection was my trade and profession . . . This is probably why I have a completely different take on security and how its employed in homes, business, and industrial applications. What can not be ignored is we as a people live in an age where information is pervasive, available, and accessible. As many know knowledge is power - but only if you apply that knowledge that promotes positive results in others. People have (enmass) decided to use critical information and exploit even the most basic things in our homes. As MustangChris04 indicated, seeing for the first time a coat hanger disable a locked garage door is pretty unsettling. This is why people have to really consider some aspects of their lives and homes need to be *dumbed* down. When people asked me what are some of the key elements of force protection and how I would deploy such solutions. 99% of them were always shocked with the lack of (Technology) I used as a first line of defense. Technology is great and if used correctly can be most excellent but the reliance on electronics, computers, servo's, and AC/DC powered devices are a recipe for disaster when things go boom! There is a reason the phrase KISS was coined . . . People should try to keep as many things in their lives, homes, work, etc based on KISS. People are hard pressed to count on one hand how many toggle switches have ever burned out or not activated after a power outage. Never mind indicating it was hacked or compromised in a way that the user did not intend it to be so.

When you first get a ISY Series Controller one of the selections when you add a device is to *Keep all existing links* you can go that route. Should that method not operate as you expect you could hard reset one device one at a time and add it back to the system at your leisure. For me as painful as it is hard resetting the entire system just make sense because you won't have to contend with half links or odd behavior. The amount of time invested in this endeavor will soon be forgotten as you move forward with the power of the ISY Series Controller. NOTE: This is coming from a guy who tried to do the above before many times and it simply doesn't work out very well in the long term.

David, Good to hear now rock on . . .

Delete the device from the ISY Series Controller and when it asks to add them back select delete existing links. If that fails to do the job you can perform a hard reset of the device outlined in the users manual. Factory reset is indicated on page 12 listed here: http://cache-m2.smarthome.com/manuals/2477s.pdf

I guess I'll be the first to dissent on the idea of using a Mini Remote for activating the GDO from a vehicle. If you're like most the garage houses some of the most expensive things a man could possibly own. Just consider tools, tool chests, lawn mower, etc. For the small amount of money that a purpose built GDO remote cost and most if not all have rolling (encrypted) code technology it just makes sense to use. Now, if you want to supplement it with control of lights etc. Go for it because that's why Home Automation is for along with access / convenience(s). At some point I hope and expect that Smartlabs will place encrypting the signal for a purpose built I/O Linc as a primary offering. Considering the fact a dual band I/O Linc is already in the works perhaps this is something we shall see together in 2016. In closing, the garage door is the largest entry to the property it should be secured with the same level of protection / access as one would expect a front / rear access door.

I agree with Stu shutting down breakers or unplugging devices and adding them back one at a time is the most practical and definitive method. Keeping in mind its not like you will keep the breakers off for hours. This is done solely to help narrow down and isolate the root cause of the noise maker / signal sucker. If you truly have lots of transformers in the home then there isn't much to be done besides living with the issue. There are various small inline filters and also snubbers that can be inserted with the load to help reduce some forms of disturbances. The benefit and down side of this whole dual band technology from Insteon is that its (over all) very forgiving and I have found lots of installs were simply on the edge of failing. Its the benefit of the protocol and topology that allows a teetering Insteon network to still operate OK. Its when the noise is so persistent that even dual band is not able to over come it. If your previous readings did not disclose the obvious plugin devices are superior in RF range then those installed inside of a JBOX that is just plain physics. Purchase what ever device you wish that fits your needs. I prefer the On-Off module because it serves dual purpose and use when compared to the RE (Range Extender). It also offers more features than the dimmer unit and as far as I can tell is built sturdier.

All dual band devices repeat and regenerate the Insteon signal. Meaning if device 1 comes into device 2 at 50% level. Device 2 will resend that Insteon signal at 100% to the end device say device 3. The only Insteon device that does not repeat or strengthen the signal is the hard wired phase coupler. Obviously battery operated devices do not repeat the Insteon signal to others but simply rebroadcast the same signal 3 times to ensure a successful reception. If there is a outlet outside install a plugin on off module to help the signal. Keeping in mind if it's a noise issue or signal sucker this is just a band aid. Ideals are peaceful - History is violent

There is no reason the power line signal would not reach 100 feet. Which is very modest in terms of wire length. If the lights are truly hardwired to the same electrical leg of the other Insteon devices it comes down to noise makers / signal suckers being a primary culprit here. I have wired a industrial building using Insteon and the wire run exceeded 2000 feet with out issue. So, again I would be looking at what kind of load is present and what kind of filtering may be required to solve this issue. Your first step is to perform the bridging / coupling test and see how the device(s) react to said 4 tap (beacon) test. Next is to see and determine what kind of noise makers are present in that area. Keeping in mind all the coupling / bridging in the world will not supersede the need to address noise related issues, none.

The device is very simple its just a hole surrounded by a conductive plate. The lever just clamps down from above making a Romex sammich. I gather the plate is ribbed to give it some bite because its extremely hard to yank the wire out with any force a normal person would exert.

Do you have lots of programs tied to that device? Also, is there a reason you intend to switch out an interior device for a outdoor rated one?

If its not on the list when you right click to select a replace with its not.

Figures I write about how this KPL has been consistently going dark for several weeks. Now, it just operates fine with out any user intervention?!?! I still plan on capturing what the ISY believes the LED settings are when it happens. Just wanted to update this thread that nothing super fantastic has happen since my last posting.

Its on the bottom of the package.

Oh yeah after doing 40-50 switches your finger is like hamburger meat! When the wing style wire nuts / marettes came out it was like a electricians wet dream come true! [emoji5]️ With the advent of various Wago style cable terminators it's like the super lotto max was just won! Wago or similar are nice but they are 2-3 times the cost vs standard wire nuts so keep that in mind if this is a large project. For those considering the push in style be sure you practice a few times on a scrap piece of Romex and fully understand what a PITA it will be to remove them should it be required in a confined space! [emoji35] Ideals are peaceful - History is violent

You can only have one battery operated device in linking mode at a time. Otherwise you will link the two together or cancel the update process. Ideals are peaceful - History is violent

Given between the two choices the Wago 221 are preferred ones to use. As I noted in a SH forum these sort of connectors are not always accepted by the inspector as they are not common and lots of these folks are not up to date and old school. Meaning if they tell you they are not approved you must remove them. I've used Wago lever style connectors for many years for many installs where they make sense. The ones I use are depending upon JBOX size not appropriate because having three of them reduces box space. I have 20 boxes of various 2-8 wire connectors as seen here. With respect to wire surface the same ampacity is present due to its clamping design from both sides. Ideals are peaceful - History is violent

Touche, will check for sure once I am back home. Perhaps this is related to the 3 AM query all not being able to find the *My Lighting* scene. I updated a few times and noticed this program wasn't running anymore. Upon closer inspection the then clause was blank? I never made any changes that program, ever. I also noticed some e-mail alerts using the default system choice no longer presents any values?