Teken

Just to be clear when I say wider gap I'm referring to the physical gap distance from magnet to reed switch not the internal reed gap. Regardless, a reed switch that is super sensitive to the magnetic pull is the result of a closer reed gap and thinner plate material. If you already ordered a replacement reed switch you might consider giving it another go. As stated early on I've installed many of these without too much issues for friends, family, clients. Circle back and let us know what you end up doing and the final results. [emoji846] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I initially thought that was the root cause. But these NR's were related to temperature for the 1 Wire network. Like you I played with adding a few seconds of wait in the program to solve that issue. Right now I'm monitoring this condition to see if that solves the issues. So far that has solved the problem but can't understand how this came about after working fine without a wait statement for months?!? [emoji848][emoji34] Regardless, Julie U.S. has added a whole new level of interaction and awareness that I never had in my HA system. Being proactively told of a condition has simply been outstanding!! [emoji106] For me this isn't about the wow factor. It's about being able to know something important / relevant is happening in and around the home. Much thanks to everyone who had a hand in this amazing project!! [emoji106] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

You confirmed when you rang the door bell the reed is on the correct solenoid? If it is than as I said a wider gap reed would help. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I don't own this device but past threads indicate most of the features are changed and operated by this software application: http://smartenit.com/resources-and-downloads/

http://forum.universal-devices.com/topic/22393-remote-triggering-of-events/

Yeah ~ I wanted to move away and limit my *Risks* from kerosene lamps. Keeping too many explosive / highly combustible liquids on hand was going to impact my ongoing cUL certification. Some I donated others I sold or gave to family and friends who could use them for camping. Right now my main focus is going very old school in all of the systems in the home. The goal is to have three back ups that don't rely on the grid or electricity to produce heat, water, light, and food (cold) storage. Its been a fantastic but long journey to meet the *Power of 3*.

Its safe to say 99% of the population does this too, as have I. I don't want people reading my reply misunderstanding what I stated up above. What I have done in my home is a lifestyle which I feel is a good investment for the security and safety of the family. This is also one of the major *Hobbies* I enjoy in life and my home is giant testing ground for system(s). Its safe to say none of this could have been done or accomplished with out the Internet, Online Sales, and Government auctions. The average person isn't going to have eight 120/240 refrigerator sized UPS's in their home like I did. Also, I am a *Old School* fan of low tech too . . . LOL . . .

Assuming you have the ISY Portal you could have House A send a command via IFTTT to the other house B which is linked to what ever Insteon device. I'm sure there are other ways but that's one that popped in my head.

This is where things can become very expensive for the average bear [emoji199] For most this is very much a hobby and after thought. While for others like me this is a long term investment and lifestyle. In doing so, in my home there are lots of dedicated and redundant systems in place. In this case the ISY Series Controller is powered by its own over sized UPS. Just this dedicated UPS can provide more than seven days of online power. Assuming this UPS failed that branch circuit is powered by a 24.7.365 online 120-240 whole house APC Symetra UPS system. That system is powered by both grid power and a isolated PV system. Assuming any of the above fail to operate the last line of defence is whole house Koehler 21 KWH Low RPM NG backup generator. Last but not least if for what ever reason everything goes to hell. There is a secondary isolated off grid 3 KWH solar PV system with a massive LiPoe power pack that is wired in Series / Parallel to offer 5500 AH to a inverter system. NOTE: The 5500 aH is not a typo!

Correct, but don't get caught up on the firmware version being displayed. I say this because Smartlabs has been known to change features, behavior, etc mid production. Ensure you monitor BOTH states though. [emoji106] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

You may be shocked to learn some device with heartbeat send a OFF instead of a ON. [emoji19] This is why your heartbeat program should monitor for both states. ☝️ Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Life's not about problems ~ Its about challenges. Lots of people go after fast cars, fast woman ~ Had lots of them in the past. Now, its all about a fast house!!

No problem ~ Obviously I have more advanced hardware and systems in place then the average person. But, wanted to share and clarify this is something I'm doing given the tight integration and power of the ISY Series Controller. The adage I've heard and lived by is:

Hello nwchicago, I should have clarified this requires other supporting hardware to accomplish this task. I have three devices which fail over to compensate for the other two systems in place. I have two Brultech Green Eye Monitors (GEMS) and two Brultech Dash Box's (DB) which send data to the ISY Series Controller. When the GEM / DB system(s) detect a power failure it sends a State Variable to the ISY Series Controller to initiate the delayed query. There are four ISY Series Controllers in my home one of them is the primary system which performs the bulk of the operations in the home. The other three operate in a isolated sand boxed environment which covers security, force protection, environmentals, and network tasks. Should the GEM / DB fail to detect or complete this power outage tasks my Guardian system will spool up and complete the alert notification to the ISY Series Controller. In basic terms: No power for (defined) X duration -> Send State Variable to ISY -> Set var from 0 to 1 = ISY Initiates Delayed Query of targeted hardware.

The only thing I do different is when the system detects a power outage I have a program that executes a *Just In Time* delayed Query. This ensures all of the hardware is polled for the correct state. As of this writing this program hasn't been activated once because we have rock solid power. Well, besides the fact I have three layers of online power on tap . . .

What happens when you press and hold the door bell down longer? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Why is it off instead of ON? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Is the program set to control vs status? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Curious to know what the OP's purpose is for *Disabling* a Insteon device in a program?!?

Hello John, This really comes down to your personal environment and how complicated your system is. My intention for placing the ISY Series Controller on a UPS is based on up time, reliability, and reducing life cycle due to an electrical fault. Providing clean and steady power is important to the longevity of any electronic component. For most people a UPS for a controller is a moot point since 99% of the population don't have or employ a whole house generator. So there really isn't anything to control or manage. Having said this it really comes down to use case and personal need. I am of the mind everything that can be placed on a AVR / UPS is done so . . .

An expensive work around is placing the ISY Series Controller on a dedicated UPS. I did this way back in the day for exactly this problem. Also the use of Status vs Control is something you may want to play with but for me I don't see the value in doing so. As it could very well introduce another unexpected behavior not planned for. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The problem with Alexa, Home, Siri, Cortana, is they have no concept or knowledge of what a device is. This must be defined by the user / maker. Proactive and reactive voice announcements have already been made available for about 16 months now for Alexa. I have been using it to advise me of energy targets, temperature, humidity, voltage, security, and force protection. Julie U.S is the reactive system which automatically announces defined conditions without my intervention. Alexa, must be asked but this system provides real time updates and status of every facet of the home, property, weather, security, and force protection elements. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Totally normal until the sensor is tripped again. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

LOL . . . I was cut off during the *NO* steps had to recharge my iPhone. IF NO: 1. If the LED blinks and you don't receive an email where the door bell is located. Its assumed the RF signaling isn't being received by the Insteon network. The only solution is to install a dual band device like a plug in device. 2. Same as step 1 - Poor Insteon RF coupling. 3. Same as step 1 - Poor Insteon RF coupling. 4. If RF coupling has been confirmed in steps 1~3. Press and hold the door bell for several seconds and advise what the results are. Based on my field tests and hooking up more than seven Insteon door bells. If the system operates if the door bell is held down longer than a simple push and go. The solution is to purchase a more sensitive N.O. reed switch because the magnetic field isn't strong / too fast to pull the reed switch. P.S. I forgot to state the obvious because this was done by a friend. Ensure the reed switch is attached to the correct solenoid!! As you can see there are two in my door bell one for the front and one for the rear. In my home I only have a front door bell. That is the one on the right and the left solenoid is for the rear which isn't attached to anything. Best to have someone ring the door bell and watch the plunger move up and down and confirm the reed is on the correct unit!

The first thing I would do is stick to the basics and complete the following. 1. Where ever the open-close sensor is press the white set button. Does the ISY Series Controller see it and is there a follow up email? If yes go to step 2 2. Take the two wires leading out of the open-close sensor and touch them. Do you see the green LED blink and do you receive an email in the same spot? If yes go to step 3. 3. Reattach the reed switch and pass over a magnet and confirm you see the LED blink and receive a follow up email. If yes go to step 4. 4. With the system configured using the reed switch ensure the reed is mounted to the door bells solenoid. Ring the door bell and confirm the LED blinks and you receive a follow up email. If no the gap distance is too far, reed switch requires a stronger magnetic pull, the magnetic field isn't strong enough. This is why the most sensitive reed switch with a wide gap distance is normally employed because they will active with the slightest magnetic field measured in milli heneries.