Teken

The program I listed up above does that already. ☝️[emoji106] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

First thing is to have matching firmware and UI. Next, based on your feedback there seems there is another program firing off a email. You can confirm this via the level 3 logs. As a quick test increase the wait to ten seconds this will eliminate any chance this is a debounce error. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The easiest method is to change the time interval from minutes to seconds. That same value would be saved as a Integer and then relayed to you via email. The only downside in going this route is (IF) you have lots of other programs this very short (second) counting may tie the ISY Series Controller up. Also keep in mind the ISY Series Controller would of course need to be placed on a UPS to keep counting. This program your reading about is to track when the controller has been rebooted. It's not intended to track when there is a power loss in the home for that you would need something else to monitor and track. If you need a Insteon solution let me know . . .

Assuming you have only one active email program in place. Insert a 3 second wait in the then section prior to the email path entry and report back success vs failure. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Having dealt with two of their *latest* Developers who just so happens to be off shore. [emoji849] They / He is a fail!!! [emoji35] If I ever hear another soul utter the words: Do the needful! I'll crawl through that telephone line and crush them! ☝️ Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

No worries, please do remember to make a back up once you're done. Fire a copy to a USB drive / stick ~ The other to a cloud hosted storage service for off site storage and safe keeping. Rock On . . .

LOL . . . I through a rant out and you come back with calm, cool, and collected!!! Great steal my fire and roll with it ~ I love it. Regardless, on many points I do agree and not to broad brush everyone who does work in Smartlabs. There were a few really great folks who offered great insight, help, and follow up support. What I can say is the 3rd party *Off Shore* technical support is a utter fail. Dealing with East Indians for more than 35 years in the tech support role from Dell, Microsoft, Cisco, the list is endless. Has always be a disaster and this falls squarely on Managements insistence of pushing down costs. 3rd world nations that have a feeble grasp of the English language is a fail. Their technical prowess is even less than fail but results in endless call backs, poor customer satisfaction, and loss of future sales for the parent company. Having personally worked, trained, and forced to coach these $0.05 employee's is waste of oxygen. Anyways, back on point: I would very much like to see the latest motion sensor have 100% support in all aspects which includes the 16 options stated in the API!!!

I would offer your personal experience relays when all recommended steps are completed but don't yield the positive results one expects. The end result is a hard reset is the final solution . . .

The last official 4.6.X firmware is said to support the most basic feature of this sensor. The 5.XX branch also offers basic support but many of the other features are not. One year is fast approaching since this product was launched and this device and others are still poorly implemented. How the general public is supposed to have faith and confidence in dipping their toes into the whole home automation space with hardware that is so lack luster in support and developmentation. Having dealt with four Smartlabs, so called developers in the past the phrase useless comes to mind. If the API documentation does not offer the insight to yield a end result. That is a failure of the company who released said document to the general public. If the hardware does not do as the API states it should ~ Again, that is a failure on the mark of the company who made said hardware. I'll never understand how it is Insteon / Z-Wave is so hard to implement when the so called API is supposed to be clear, concise, and to the point. The reality is none of this is the case because manufactures can implement some, part, or all of the Z-Wave protocol as has been seen countless times in random products! With Insteon I am at a loss as to explain why it is basic features can't be provided. Are people reinventing the freaking wheel here?!?!? Its only been a year since the new motion sensor has been released . . . Which leads to the final question: This new motion sensor is supposed to support 16 other features. When are these features going to be provided and supported??? 1,3, 10 years??? I've posed the same question to the Beta team with the various team leads over the course of a year. There has been zero response to any of these basic queries!!! That makes the entire Alpha / Beta program useless, waste of time, and pointless. This new VC guy who purchased Smartlabs needs to fire the lot of them and start from scratch.

Anytime you update the firmware on the controller you must *Manually* download the appropriate Admin Console. This information is boldly listed in the steps to follow. There are several things that need to be done in order as listed out by the other forum members. - Remove power from the ISY Series Controller. - Apply power to the 2413S PLM for at least ten seconds. - Apply power to the ISY Series Controller. - Complete the PLM restore which can take hours to complete. If that process is completed in mere seconds / minutes ~ Its failed. - If the above has failed you need to complete a ISY Restore. Once complete you can perform the PLM Restore process. - Additional steps may to complete a hardware restore of each device. If you have a large Insteon network this can take a lot of time. - If none of this works and based on your previous replies its just easier to start from scratch as you did in creating new scenes. The cost vs value ratio comes down to how much time, patience, and hair on your head . . .

Going off memory I don't recall the last 3.XX firmware having the ability to use the controller without a PLM. I believe this was introduced mid way in the 4.XX branch and also carried over to the 5.XX I also recall you'll need to use one of the newer 4.XX Admin UI's as it will throw an error at some point during launch. I would submit a technical support request with UDI so they can offer you all the correct resources to get it up and running. Great little Controller for sure!! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

You're still covered submit a RMA with Smarthome. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

On the PLM is the LED bright or dim? Do you see network traffic on the PLM's LED when you activate any switches / sensors? If you perform a link table compare what numeric link count is presented? When performing this test the house must be quiet and no one moving around and complete at least 3~4 link counts to obtain a good average. If you have 50 Insteon devices in the home and the link table count reports back something crazy stupid like 12 that may be an indicator. If simply unplugging the 2413S PLM restores service its more than likely a failing unit. I would first check to see if yours is still under the two year manufactures warranty. If not you can purchase a new one or try your hand in the PLM repair guide in this forum. You can always try a hell merry and do a PLM restore to see what happens. But historically this is a band aid which buys you time . . . All of the above assumes you don't have any other noise induced issues in the home . . .

If you reboot the controller the state is lost until that battery device is activated. You can see the current state for the leak sensor by pressing the set button. Once the heart beat comes in (approx 24 hours) it will show up too.

Greg, Would love to see the final product once you get it all hammered out.

Hello Greg, Wire is cheap and can be had almost anywhere hence why I made that initial suggestion. If you find the two wire method doesn't offer the results you need you can always purchase a very cheap (sub $5.00) float and attach the same to the I/O ports of the Open-Close sensor. I always try to come in with the cheapest solution first and build up from there. When cheap doesn't work just throw money at it I say!!

Hello Greg, I'm going to assume your looking for a Insteon solution? If so, the easiest solution is to use a Insteon *Open / Close* (Trigger Linc) sensor via its external I/O ports. Simply use a two conductor wire and insert the wire pair into the tank at the defined level you believe is the best. Right now Smarthome has their 20% off sale and if you don't care about a two year warranty you can purchase a refurbished open / close sensor before the 20% discount for $19.99: http://www.smarthome.com/refurbished-insteon-2843-222r-wireless-open-close-sensor.html A new sensor with the 2 year warranty is $34.99 before the 20% discount: http://www.smarthome.com/insteon-2843-222-wireless-open-close-sensor.html Just a simple option ~ Let us know what you end up going with.

Hello Deirwin, Short answer is: Yes Long answer is: I believe there are several factors to take into consideration when thinking about any new system. For the record and clarity I am a little biased since the Water Hero system is in place and being used in my home. You will need to keep that in mind when you review my thoughts and replies for the following: Goals: You will really need to define the long term goal(s) and your requirements. Many will go into something and under / over purchase just because someone else did so. But could never accomplish the very same either because they didn't have the technical skills or the finances to do so. Always plan ahead and have a system that matches your skill set and can be expanded further is my thought. Budget: It goes with out saying finances are key but people should not get caught up spending too little vs too much. For me I consider the total *Value* each product brings to me and what it can do on a practical manner. If you've Googled long enough you're more than aware the prices for similar devices range from $25.XX ~ 1200.00 from simple (Insteon) leak sensors to commercial multi point sensing units. Only you can determine if the item in question will offer that value for your intended purpose. Having been using and testing for the Water Hero team for more than three years. The current *sensing* portion has been incredible for me in every way. I've included a few screen captures from my system and what can be seen and how its portrayed. Please note, the charting and graphing comes from my Brultech Green Eye Monitor (GEM) and Dash Box (DB). The primary goal for me was finding a none invasive system that was easy to install and set up with out the need to replace the main water meter or hire a plumber. The other requirement was a system that would integrate well with the Brultech GEM / DB system which it does. Next, was having the ability to interface and use the ISY Series Controller which it does. The other requirement was having a open API that could integrate with most systems on the market. The team is in the process of documenting and releasing this open API for the system. They are also working hard on releasing a smart application which can offer remote control and basic water metrics. I've been pushing very hard on the team to ensure the system is as open and can operate in a local and stand alone mode vs cloud only. I am not a fan of cloud based services or products and thus my bias toward local first vs cloud first has been the main driver when working with the Water Hero team. I have been very fortunate in the fact we have a good working relationship with the founder and CEO. Because of this, the company has taken on dozens of my suggestions and requirements I believe offer the best value, performance, and integration. The team and I are on the last portion of Beta testing for no less than 100 field testers. The development team is hard at work in the Alpha trials to release a smart application which supports iOS / Android. As of this writing I have been hard at work on expanding my home automation system to support reactive and proactive voice alerts / announcements via Amazon Echo, and Julie U.S. Many elements of this depends upon the tight integration of the ISY Series Controller which tracks the current, low, high water flows in my home. At a high level the system will be able to inform me of *Water Signatures* which I can proactively track, monitor, or intercede to. Other aspects I have been field trialing is multi point alert notifications which relay the information to a person in a common sense manner. That has been from simple LED board indicators to relay volume, active, minimum vs maximum values met. To graphing from Water Hero, Dash Box, IFTTT, Google Charts, to SEG. For me this Water Hero system serves many facets which are: Global Water Consumption, Security, Water Control, Water Conservation, and being able to share the data with other people. The most important aspect I can not over state is the system is extremely accurate. It does not rely on systems that use paddles, infrasonic, mythical guessing software, or hall effect / LED counters. The system uses tried and true none contact / none invasive magnetic detection right at the water meter. If the dial on your homes water meter moves - It tracks it! There is no track every 10, 20 gallons per blah blah blah. It tracks when ever the water meter dial moves and spins around. So what does that mean in plain English? Its taking measurements from a *Certified* device installed by the city!! Let me know if that answers your questions and whether you need more feedback.

A hard reset will bring the device back to a known OEM base line state. You can think of a *Delete all existing links* as a soft reboot. Where as a hard reset is like pulling the outlet in the wall and wiping out the memory card / hard drive format. If you have been around computers long enough you will know a soft boot does not always work as one would expect. Where as a hard reboot (remove power) always does . . . A hard reset will delete any half links, ghost programming, and set the hardware to a known default state. 30 devices isn't too many to hard reset but when you reach 60 plus. You really need to be committed and have patience and time to complete this task. If the home has some kind of noise maker / signal sucker present the bulk of this will be a lot harder. But for now your first task is to confirm proper coupling of split single phase electrical system via the 4 tap beacon test outlined in any full users manual. The 2413S PLM user guide will explain the steps and what your looking for. You could find for what ever reason you simply don't have proper coupling and hence the red exclamation marks. If its noise the best thing to do so you remain sane is to unplug every thing in the home until your able to complete the PLM restore / ISY Restore etc. Anything that can't be unplugged like fridges, freezer, HVAC, etc can be temporarily shut off via the breakers. Good luck . . .

Depending upon where you live and what NEC code is enforced in your local. The application of a secondary remote switch may be allowed / disallowed. I would simply call the city inspector and inquire first. ========================= The highest calling in life is to serve ones country faithfully - Teach others what can be. Do what is right and not what is popular.

Where is the GFCI that protects this electrical circuit, at the main breaker?

In the future you can simply install the micro dimmers in the JB. This assumes there is enough clearance as older homes didn't have enough but since your home is fairly new (2015). JB space shouldn't be an issue in the box . . .

Please do and keep in mind the 2466 is one of the last Insteon switches that are still (Single Band). Meaning it sends its signal via power line and not (Dual Band) power line & RF. The 2466 toggle switch is also one of the few pieces of hardware that hasn't seen any internal hardware updates either. Unless you have a pressing need for the toggle switch look ~ Your best served installing a micro dimmer in place to offer dual band capability and 2017 hardware technology.

If you determine the lights share an outlet on the same electrical circuit you can simply add any device to replicate the same load.

Yes, there is a distinct difference between doing the two in this respect. If you do what I asked exactly and assuming there are no other factors affecting your deployment. When you ask Alexa to Tell Me I expect to hear a value recited. ========================= The highest calling in life is to serve ones country faithfully - Teach others what can be. Do what is right and not what is popular.