Teken

Going off memory I don't recall the last 3.XX firmware having the ability to use the controller without a PLM. I believe this was introduced mid way in the 4.XX branch and also carried over to the 5.XX I also recall you'll need to use one of the newer 4.XX Admin UI's as it will throw an error at some point during launch. I would submit a technical support request with UDI so they can offer you all the correct resources to get it up and running. Great little Controller for sure!! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

You're still covered submit a RMA with Smarthome. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

On the PLM is the LED bright or dim? Do you see network traffic on the PLM's LED when you activate any switches / sensors? If you perform a link table compare what numeric link count is presented? When performing this test the house must be quiet and no one moving around and complete at least 3~4 link counts to obtain a good average. If you have 50 Insteon devices in the home and the link table count reports back something crazy stupid like 12 that may be an indicator. If simply unplugging the 2413S PLM restores service its more than likely a failing unit. I would first check to see if yours is still under the two year manufactures warranty. If not you can purchase a new one or try your hand in the PLM repair guide in this forum. You can always try a hell merry and do a PLM restore to see what happens. But historically this is a band aid which buys you time . . . All of the above assumes you don't have any other noise induced issues in the home . . .

If you reboot the controller the state is lost until that battery device is activated. You can see the current state for the leak sensor by pressing the set button. Once the heart beat comes in (approx 24 hours) it will show up too.

Greg, Would love to see the final product once you get it all hammered out.

Hello Greg, Wire is cheap and can be had almost anywhere hence why I made that initial suggestion. If you find the two wire method doesn't offer the results you need you can always purchase a very cheap (sub $5.00) float and attach the same to the I/O ports of the Open-Close sensor. I always try to come in with the cheapest solution first and build up from there. When cheap doesn't work just throw money at it I say!!

Hello Greg, I'm going to assume your looking for a Insteon solution? If so, the easiest solution is to use a Insteon *Open / Close* (Trigger Linc) sensor via its external I/O ports. Simply use a two conductor wire and insert the wire pair into the tank at the defined level you believe is the best. Right now Smarthome has their 20% off sale and if you don't care about a two year warranty you can purchase a refurbished open / close sensor before the 20% discount for $19.99: http://www.smarthome.com/refurbished-insteon-2843-222r-wireless-open-close-sensor.html A new sensor with the 2 year warranty is $34.99 before the 20% discount: http://www.smarthome.com/insteon-2843-222-wireless-open-close-sensor.html Just a simple option ~ Let us know what you end up going with.

Hello Deirwin, Short answer is: Yes Long answer is: I believe there are several factors to take into consideration when thinking about any new system. For the record and clarity I am a little biased since the Water Hero system is in place and being used in my home. You will need to keep that in mind when you review my thoughts and replies for the following: Goals: You will really need to define the long term goal(s) and your requirements. Many will go into something and under / over purchase just because someone else did so. But could never accomplish the very same either because they didn't have the technical skills or the finances to do so. Always plan ahead and have a system that matches your skill set and can be expanded further is my thought. Budget: It goes with out saying finances are key but people should not get caught up spending too little vs too much. For me I consider the total *Value* each product brings to me and what it can do on a practical manner. If you've Googled long enough you're more than aware the prices for similar devices range from $25.XX ~ 1200.00 from simple (Insteon) leak sensors to commercial multi point sensing units. Only you can determine if the item in question will offer that value for your intended purpose. Having been using and testing for the Water Hero team for more than three years. The current *sensing* portion has been incredible for me in every way. I've included a few screen captures from my system and what can be seen and how its portrayed. Please note, the charting and graphing comes from my Brultech Green Eye Monitor (GEM) and Dash Box (DB). The primary goal for me was finding a none invasive system that was easy to install and set up with out the need to replace the main water meter or hire a plumber. The other requirement was a system that would integrate well with the Brultech GEM / DB system which it does. Next, was having the ability to interface and use the ISY Series Controller which it does. The other requirement was having a open API that could integrate with most systems on the market. The team is in the process of documenting and releasing this open API for the system. They are also working hard on releasing a smart application which can offer remote control and basic water metrics. I've been pushing very hard on the team to ensure the system is as open and can operate in a local and stand alone mode vs cloud only. I am not a fan of cloud based services or products and thus my bias toward local first vs cloud first has been the main driver when working with the Water Hero team. I have been very fortunate in the fact we have a good working relationship with the founder and CEO. Because of this, the company has taken on dozens of my suggestions and requirements I believe offer the best value, performance, and integration. The team and I are on the last portion of Beta testing for no less than 100 field testers. The development team is hard at work in the Alpha trials to release a smart application which supports iOS / Android. As of this writing I have been hard at work on expanding my home automation system to support reactive and proactive voice alerts / announcements via Amazon Echo, and Julie U.S. Many elements of this depends upon the tight integration of the ISY Series Controller which tracks the current, low, high water flows in my home. At a high level the system will be able to inform me of *Water Signatures* which I can proactively track, monitor, or intercede to. Other aspects I have been field trialing is multi point alert notifications which relay the information to a person in a common sense manner. That has been from simple LED board indicators to relay volume, active, minimum vs maximum values met. To graphing from Water Hero, Dash Box, IFTTT, Google Charts, to SEG. For me this Water Hero system serves many facets which are: Global Water Consumption, Security, Water Control, Water Conservation, and being able to share the data with other people. The most important aspect I can not over state is the system is extremely accurate. It does not rely on systems that use paddles, infrasonic, mythical guessing software, or hall effect / LED counters. The system uses tried and true none contact / none invasive magnetic detection right at the water meter. If the dial on your homes water meter moves - It tracks it! There is no track every 10, 20 gallons per blah blah blah. It tracks when ever the water meter dial moves and spins around. So what does that mean in plain English? Its taking measurements from a *Certified* device installed by the city!! Let me know if that answers your questions and whether you need more feedback.

A hard reset will bring the device back to a known OEM base line state. You can think of a *Delete all existing links* as a soft reboot. Where as a hard reset is like pulling the outlet in the wall and wiping out the memory card / hard drive format. If you have been around computers long enough you will know a soft boot does not always work as one would expect. Where as a hard reboot (remove power) always does . . . A hard reset will delete any half links, ghost programming, and set the hardware to a known default state. 30 devices isn't too many to hard reset but when you reach 60 plus. You really need to be committed and have patience and time to complete this task. If the home has some kind of noise maker / signal sucker present the bulk of this will be a lot harder. But for now your first task is to confirm proper coupling of split single phase electrical system via the 4 tap beacon test outlined in any full users manual. The 2413S PLM user guide will explain the steps and what your looking for. You could find for what ever reason you simply don't have proper coupling and hence the red exclamation marks. If its noise the best thing to do so you remain sane is to unplug every thing in the home until your able to complete the PLM restore / ISY Restore etc. Anything that can't be unplugged like fridges, freezer, HVAC, etc can be temporarily shut off via the breakers. Good luck . . .

Depending upon where you live and what NEC code is enforced in your local. The application of a secondary remote switch may be allowed / disallowed. I would simply call the city inspector and inquire first. ========================= The highest calling in life is to serve ones country faithfully - Teach others what can be. Do what is right and not what is popular.

Where is the GFCI that protects this electrical circuit, at the main breaker?

In the future you can simply install the micro dimmers in the JB. This assumes there is enough clearance as older homes didn't have enough but since your home is fairly new (2015). JB space shouldn't be an issue in the box . . .

Please do and keep in mind the 2466 is one of the last Insteon switches that are still (Single Band). Meaning it sends its signal via power line and not (Dual Band) power line & RF. The 2466 toggle switch is also one of the few pieces of hardware that hasn't seen any internal hardware updates either. Unless you have a pressing need for the toggle switch look ~ Your best served installing a micro dimmer in place to offer dual band capability and 2017 hardware technology.

If you determine the lights share an outlet on the same electrical circuit you can simply add any device to replicate the same load.

Yes, there is a distinct difference between doing the two in this respect. If you do what I asked exactly and assuming there are no other factors affecting your deployment. When you ask Alexa to Tell Me I expect to hear a value recited. ========================= The highest calling in life is to serve ones country faithfully - Teach others what can be. Do what is right and not what is popular.

If there is no variable what is there to cause the network resource to update and fire off? There must be a cause and effect for something to happen.

This may not be the best example I have ever provided so here goes. You have a book that indicates the index or TOC (Table of contents) and one of the entries says *Why did the duck cross the road* Now the TOC is simply stating a fact *Why did the duck cross the road*. You have no idea why the duck crossed the road until you go to page X to read why the duck crossed the road. The static *Test* button at this very time references a State Variable that offers nothing more than its State Variable ID and at present that value is 0. When you have a program call that Network Resource it will update that portion with a *New Value* which isn't zero but a *Current* value. Which is then pushed to 3po-labs and than relayed up to the AWS servers. The above reply is simply to offer that insight you requested and doesn't address other possible issues with your deployment. Clear as mud?? You may be wondering how I know this? Because this time X months ago I had the same questions and inquired the very same . . . So you have the benefit of my lack of understanding of the above.

Because a program will *Update & Push* a value to the network resource of the 3po-labs servers and in turn relay that same information to the AWS Servers. As noted please use the >= operator . . .

Technically, you're correct in so far as the Network Resource is supposed to do X vs Y. The problem I am trying to address and let you know is currently the AWS (Amazon Echo) portal service has no value to reference. So because of this you need to initiate either manually the IF / Then section of the program so that value is then sent up to the AWS Cloud Hosted service to *Know* the value. The AWS is very much a dumb computer simply waiting for X value to arrive so it can invoke Alexa to speak Y value(s). Also, as as an aside if you so choose to use a *Integer* variable for what ever reason you need to have something in the (IF) statement that will cause that Integer to be updated consistently. Don't need to ask how I know this besides the plain obvious reason I was scratching my head for hours waiting for X to happen and it never did! Doh . . .

Hello GMD99, For the benefit of others and brevity I am going to quickly call out the basics that need to be in place. - State Variable - Network Resource - Program that is called by a State Variable and initiates a network resource update to the cloud service. Having said this has the *Tell Me* phrase been accurately employed in the AWS Service?

Running the network resource will not send the current value to the cloud hosted service. Only a program will do so and hence why I suggested you create a program and confirm it uses the >= to ensure it fires off the *State Variable*. Of course you need a State Variable to obtain and track what ever value you wish it to know.

I am going to assume your program uses a *State Variable* if so the next step is to use a (IF) conditions that uses >=. Give that a try and report back success / failure.

The first thing that jumps out at me is that *Mode* needs to be set to C-Escaped give that a try.

http://www.smarthome.com/powerlinc-modem-insteon-2413s-serial-interface-dual-band.html#reviews

LOL - We have all been here so no worries . . . Anyways, if we assume your RL2 is indeed properly enrolled as a 8 button RL2 each button should operate independently. Based on your reply it seems the RL2 in question is configured to be 4 button and hence why A turns on and B turns off or what ever. Normally each button A, B, C, etc will just toggle from on to off . . . If set to none toggle on obviously all buttons would issue a on only when pressed. Based on what you describe go to the top button of any RL2 and select 4 / 8 button mode and toggle between them ensuring the system is writing to the RL2 properly. What your doing is proving that the RL2 is being written to correctly. Obviously you will select 4 button mode first let it write. Then, go back to 8 button mode and let it write . . . At which point your only goal is to press (A) button and I expect that single button to turn on X device. When you press (A) button again it should turn off said X device. Clear as mud?