Teken

I did this for a friend not too long ago - We used the internal I/O ports of the open-close sensor and wired it to a standard magnetic contact switch. Mounted the magnet to the door and the other end affixed to the inner frame mail box housing. Ran the wire loom out the back of the mail box and mounted the open-close sensor on a mini pole to allow the best RF signaling. His mail box is about 85 feet from the nearest dual band device which is a outdoor switch.

My feedback is more about sharing a global view about how consumers need to find balance. There isn't a true right or wrong with respect to security but more about not relying on so much technology that can easily be compromised or used against us. As I get older I truly embrace the KISS principle and those who live by it. I've spent most of my life in the high tech world and have also enjoyed the very same. Why would any of us be here if we didn't enjoy the very same! LOL . . . But people should not get all caught up *Thinking* some random piece of tech is the end all - solve all. There is much to be said of mans best and loyal friend the canine. As you eluded to for those who have the right to bare arms this too offers a different level of protection. In both cases these two elements are reactive and must rely upon someone / something to react. This is why having this single point of view is limiting and dangerous. When a home / business is properly secured in its infrastructure the most important element any single person / company relies upon is *TIME*. Force protection offers that time . . . People often forget or ignore everyday scenarios of people being away for work, play, holiday, etc. Humans need to sleep, drink, eat, etc. Dogs as they get older lose vision, hearing, etc so once again the importance of investing into elements that require just a one time costs and zero maintenance and isn't impacted by time. Lastly, regardless of all the force protection elements in and around the home. One must always keep top of mind is proper comprehensive home owners insurance as you know first hand. Anyone who didn't have extra insurance when Sandy blew threw knows there was nothing going to make you whole. Once again *Insurance* is not sexy, it offers no day to day value to most people. But rest assured when the sh^t hits the fan you will be thankful that a fully comprehensive and enforced policy was there and kicked in when and where it was needed.

As Stu noted placing something inside of the door jamb which removes material from the frame will compromise the integrity and the frame. The reality is, most consumers place true security in the back seat when compared to user convenience. Who ever coined the phrase: *Locks are to keep honest people out - not thieves* If a person took just a few moments to search and Google what that same $200 - 500.XX worth of funds could do in terms of true force protection vs a so called smart lock. They would be embarrassed to find out they could actually find certified products which offer true security. There are countless security products on the open market which offer true force protection security. They are not sexy, they don't require batteries, and they just work. The sad reality is this world (Product Makers) in the last five years have pushed convenience over security where someone will lose their lives. Its pretty comical to read people who literally live in a glass house - yet they believe investing XXX dollars in a smart lock is going to stop a 85 lbs wet child from breaking into your home?!? Security is a lifestyle which is a multi faceted, layered, and practiced approach - Along with keen situational awareness of the things and people around you. People really need to think and evaluate what are their personal risks, dangers, and outside forces at play that will impact them. Having a true security audit to see where you're vulnerable is one of the several first steps in protecting life and property.

You can certainly ask the ISY Series Controller to keep existing links when you enroll the Insteon hardware. But I can tell you with a high level of confidence that half links, ghost links, and unforseen behavior will be seen if you go this route. If you're looking for a reliable and consistent operating Insteon network. Its best to hard reset all device and enroll each device into the ISY Series Controller from scratch. You can use option one and see what happens if its fine - Rock On. If not you should consider option two.

I love it! [emoji106] That project has open such a huge door to my energy monitoring / energy management it can't be understated! Like many here I started off with basic email notifications about when the dryer, washer, dishwasher was done. Now, the home speaks to the family using Julie U.S. for the very same. Extending that same power to environmental for weather, temperature, humidity has been incredible. Right now I'm finalizing the force protection elements by incorporating voice announcements which should be done in the next couple months. ========================= The highest calling in life is to serve ones country faithfully - Teach others what can be. Do what is right and not what is popular.

My entire homes energy is monitored & managed by my Brultech Green Eye Monitor. The images you see are only a small fraction of what can be captured, displayed, and recalled. I know exactly the start up inrush current, watts, volt-amps, KWH, and power factor. With the tight integration of the ISY Series Controller and the Insteon network I can monitor & manage every circuit load in my home. Currently my on going project has been to vocalize all aspects of the energy conditions. At this very moment the system will not only send me alerts via email, SMS, push notification. But actually speak and tell me if a fault condition exists. [emoji4][emoji851] Of course since we are talking about the sump. The system will tell me when, how long, and how many cycles the sump has activated for. Right now the system is only programmed to vocalize out of band readings I deem unsafe. [emoji53]

Great to see others taking a keen interest into their homes infrastructure. Doing so ensures a base line is known and tracks possible faults that may be happening.

What is your overall intent about monitoring the sump pump? That you know it has activated, duration, and how many cycle times?

Hello ELA, Once you enable SAMBA on the RPi (Open Elec) you simply go to my computer under the network and you should see the directory. Selecting the music folder will allow you to drag and drop the WAV files from what ever destination.

Hope it wasn't one of those refurbished units with a 30 day warranty?!? [emoji848]☹️️ ========================= The highest calling in life is to serve ones country faithfully - Teach others what can be. Do what is right and not what is popular.

Agreed, the mineral content of the water will impact how success full this works. The bare wire was just the cheapest method it could be done without much effort. Other options are to use dedicated water contact to float switches. A basic float switch can be had for less than $1.50 on eBay if desired. ========================= The highest calling in life is to serve ones country faithfully - Teach others what can be. Do what is right and not what is popular.

I believe people have seen instances were updating to Alpha / Beta firmware caused random things to happen. That includes programs losing associated linking, unable to save, etc. Normally in the Beta builds the first culprit is not having matching UI & Firmware but in your case that isn't the issue as yours does match. Making small changes and pressing the save button is most definitely a good move. I've personally seen many times where the system fails to save a program after an edit or creation. Out of course I always press on the save button at least two times to ensure the system has done so.

The program looks very straightforward so would suggest you confirm there are no conflicting programs in place.

Perfect, thanks for confirming just wanted to ensure the basics were in place . . .

Paste the program up for review and lets see. Also if you could provide more insight as to what brand, model, type of safety light you have in place maybe we can figure it out. I am going to assume for a moment these lights don't have a built in dusk to dawn sensor? If they do this is something you would need to resolve because no program is going to over ride the hardware unless there are means to do so.

Maybe we are on the wrong page or have a misunderstanding here so bare with me as I hash this out *Virtually* with you here. Others can chime in and confirm what I am thinking because I could be completely off base. - DST: If your area respects and observes DST you should have this box checked. - If DST is checked there is nothing more for the end user to do at all. Meaning the function and idea of the enabled (selected check box) is to automatically change the time forward / backwards when applicable. - The only problem I have seen about DST is like you - Is not having the ability to select a location from the drop down list. In that case entering the geo coordinates is the next step. What I am stating above is (IF) the DST is enabled and selected and your lat / long is correct. There is nothing more for you to do unless you do indeed see a one hour difference at this very moment with the DST box checked. Yes? NOTE: All of the above assumes enable NTP Server to ensure the controllers clock is indeed correct and in sync. Can you confirm that the system clock vs the computer clock is accurate? Do not assume the computers clock is accurate because there are many reasons it could be off.

Its interesting I just selected the *Locate Me* option and the box to enable / disable isn't available to be selected. I selected off, not supported from the drop down list but it had no impact on the *Locate Me* check box being field selectable. In the past this box was available for use so gather the team will need to review why its no longer an option. Just to be clear if you select any major city the DST box is enabled and checked correct? The problem you have is the next city is too far away to make good use of the DST function.

In past firmware the DST check box was available to enable / disable separately. In later firmware it appears this behavior has changed and is tied to the other field box's. But the reality is (IF) your region observes DST you would simply enter the city / state if listed - If not listed, you would simply enter the coordinates / custom location. At that point the DST would simply follow what program logic dictates as to when DST should begin / end.

When you select *Daylight Savings Rule* if you scroll all the way up there is a (OFF) option. Selecting that option will present you with a pop up about are you sure you want to disable etc. The field box will be white and not grey at that point but you still won't be able to check it because DST has been turned off.

A very simple method is to use a open-close sensor and install a pair of wires to the external I/O contacts. Insert the wires to what ever depth you feel offers the best balance of over flow vs high water limit. The only thing you need is to create a custom email affirming the very same. I offer this method because its inherently safe and doesn't rely on a Insteon I/O linc which requires 120 VAC. It doesn't matter if the device is connected to a GFCI water and electricity simply don't mix. The other benefit is you can elevate the open-close sensor for the best RF reception / transmission. Ensure you use high quality lithium batteries for the widest operational range and performance.

Depending upon how much direct sun light is cast on to the door and what type of material the door slab is made with. A change in slab temperature can false trip a cheap motion sensor like the Insteon unit. A none insulated door slab will present such an occurrence as there will be hot / cold spots seen by the IR sensor. Other considerations are HVAC vents which routinely false trip motion sensors. When the two problems are mixed together (door slab / vents) this is a recipe for erratic performance and behavior.

There should be no difference for such a short wire run. Keep in mind the I/O linc needs to be (armed / activated) as noted in my install thread for the *How To* the black set button needs to be pressed. This arms the system and once power is lost closes the relay and connects the other end of the contacts to the Open-Close sensor. The only thing that would impact the Open-Close sensor is poor RF mesh in that area. If so then having the ability to raise the module higher to receive and send the RF signal to the closest Insteon hardware is the expected outcome. As you already know you're working with two pieces of hardware which are not dual band. So if that area does not have a dual band device please ensure you have something close by. Otherwise you will find erratic performance and operations. This would be a very good time to place that Open-Close sensor on the heart beat program that Belias has created. I've done this to all devices in my home because its a crude method to determine RF in range / out of range and obviously battery operations.

Information Only: The price the OP is indicating is based on the ever changing stock of *Refurbished* hardware being sold for $29.99. The regular price of all the Micro Modules is $49.99, purchasing the 4 pack drops the costs down to $44.99 each. Baring a Insteon sale of 5-20% discount consumers should expect to pay the retail price unless a sale is present. Lastly, it should be fully understood all refurbished hardware come with a 30 day warranty. You do not enjoy the typical 2 year warranty coverage most of us have come to expect. Meaning if there is a failure you better hope it happens during the 30 day warranty period otherwise you are SOL. Having multiple devices buried inside a JBOX at ground level isn't anymore difficult vs a standard switch. But when these same modules are used extensively and hidden in high rise areas in the ceiling. One can only imagine the extremely low WAF when something goes wrong . . . My suggestion is to deploy all *Refurbished* hardware immediately and have them running for a 72 hour burn in period. If something is going to happen it most likely will show itself during what some call infant mortality syndrome. After the 72 hours burn in keep a close eye on those device well within the 30 day period to ensure they can be exchanged. Otherwise that $30.XX you believe you saved on isn't so much of a savings when they go poof . . .

Could you offer a little more insight about the Pronto RFX 9600 and what it does for you in your setup. I am intrigued to say the least! Glad it was all sorted out - Rock On . . .

The inherent downside of using programs vs scenes are programs relies on the controller / 2413S PLM being on line and active. Using a scene to link directly to all devices will always operate regardless of a controller / PLM being present. Scenes also react faster vs programs . . . You're only going to do this once so you might as well do it right the first time . . .