Teken

Hello ELA, Once you enable SAMBA on the RPi (Open Elec) you simply go to my computer under the network and you should see the directory. Selecting the music folder will allow you to drag and drop the WAV files from what ever destination.

Hope it wasn't one of those refurbished units with a 30 day warranty?!? [emoji848]☹️️ ========================= The highest calling in life is to serve ones country faithfully - Teach others what can be. Do what is right and not what is popular.

Agreed, the mineral content of the water will impact how success full this works. The bare wire was just the cheapest method it could be done without much effort. Other options are to use dedicated water contact to float switches. A basic float switch can be had for less than $1.50 on eBay if desired. ========================= The highest calling in life is to serve ones country faithfully - Teach others what can be. Do what is right and not what is popular.

I believe people have seen instances were updating to Alpha / Beta firmware caused random things to happen. That includes programs losing associated linking, unable to save, etc. Normally in the Beta builds the first culprit is not having matching UI & Firmware but in your case that isn't the issue as yours does match. Making small changes and pressing the save button is most definitely a good move. I've personally seen many times where the system fails to save a program after an edit or creation. Out of course I always press on the save button at least two times to ensure the system has done so.

The program looks very straightforward so would suggest you confirm there are no conflicting programs in place.

Perfect, thanks for confirming just wanted to ensure the basics were in place . . .

Paste the program up for review and lets see. Also if you could provide more insight as to what brand, model, type of safety light you have in place maybe we can figure it out. I am going to assume for a moment these lights don't have a built in dusk to dawn sensor? If they do this is something you would need to resolve because no program is going to over ride the hardware unless there are means to do so.

Maybe we are on the wrong page or have a misunderstanding here so bare with me as I hash this out *Virtually* with you here. Others can chime in and confirm what I am thinking because I could be completely off base. - DST: If your area respects and observes DST you should have this box checked. - If DST is checked there is nothing more for the end user to do at all. Meaning the function and idea of the enabled (selected check box) is to automatically change the time forward / backwards when applicable. - The only problem I have seen about DST is like you - Is not having the ability to select a location from the drop down list. In that case entering the geo coordinates is the next step. What I am stating above is (IF) the DST is enabled and selected and your lat / long is correct. There is nothing more for you to do unless you do indeed see a one hour difference at this very moment with the DST box checked. Yes? NOTE: All of the above assumes enable NTP Server to ensure the controllers clock is indeed correct and in sync. Can you confirm that the system clock vs the computer clock is accurate? Do not assume the computers clock is accurate because there are many reasons it could be off.

Its interesting I just selected the *Locate Me* option and the box to enable / disable isn't available to be selected. I selected off, not supported from the drop down list but it had no impact on the *Locate Me* check box being field selectable. In the past this box was available for use so gather the team will need to review why its no longer an option. Just to be clear if you select any major city the DST box is enabled and checked correct? The problem you have is the next city is too far away to make good use of the DST function.

In past firmware the DST check box was available to enable / disable separately. In later firmware it appears this behavior has changed and is tied to the other field box's. But the reality is (IF) your region observes DST you would simply enter the city / state if listed - If not listed, you would simply enter the coordinates / custom location. At that point the DST would simply follow what program logic dictates as to when DST should begin / end.

When you select *Daylight Savings Rule* if you scroll all the way up there is a (OFF) option. Selecting that option will present you with a pop up about are you sure you want to disable etc. The field box will be white and not grey at that point but you still won't be able to check it because DST has been turned off.

A very simple method is to use a open-close sensor and install a pair of wires to the external I/O contacts. Insert the wires to what ever depth you feel offers the best balance of over flow vs high water limit. The only thing you need is to create a custom email affirming the very same. I offer this method because its inherently safe and doesn't rely on a Insteon I/O linc which requires 120 VAC. It doesn't matter if the device is connected to a GFCI water and electricity simply don't mix. The other benefit is you can elevate the open-close sensor for the best RF reception / transmission. Ensure you use high quality lithium batteries for the widest operational range and performance.

Depending upon how much direct sun light is cast on to the door and what type of material the door slab is made with. A change in slab temperature can false trip a cheap motion sensor like the Insteon unit. A none insulated door slab will present such an occurrence as there will be hot / cold spots seen by the IR sensor. Other considerations are HVAC vents which routinely false trip motion sensors. When the two problems are mixed together (door slab / vents) this is a recipe for erratic performance and behavior.

There should be no difference for such a short wire run. Keep in mind the I/O linc needs to be (armed / activated) as noted in my install thread for the *How To* the black set button needs to be pressed. This arms the system and once power is lost closes the relay and connects the other end of the contacts to the Open-Close sensor. The only thing that would impact the Open-Close sensor is poor RF mesh in that area. If so then having the ability to raise the module higher to receive and send the RF signal to the closest Insteon hardware is the expected outcome. As you already know you're working with two pieces of hardware which are not dual band. So if that area does not have a dual band device please ensure you have something close by. Otherwise you will find erratic performance and operations. This would be a very good time to place that Open-Close sensor on the heart beat program that Belias has created. I've done this to all devices in my home because its a crude method to determine RF in range / out of range and obviously battery operations.

Information Only: The price the OP is indicating is based on the ever changing stock of *Refurbished* hardware being sold for $29.99. The regular price of all the Micro Modules is $49.99, purchasing the 4 pack drops the costs down to $44.99 each. Baring a Insteon sale of 5-20% discount consumers should expect to pay the retail price unless a sale is present. Lastly, it should be fully understood all refurbished hardware come with a 30 day warranty. You do not enjoy the typical 2 year warranty coverage most of us have come to expect. Meaning if there is a failure you better hope it happens during the 30 day warranty period otherwise you are SOL. Having multiple devices buried inside a JBOX at ground level isn't anymore difficult vs a standard switch. But when these same modules are used extensively and hidden in high rise areas in the ceiling. One can only imagine the extremely low WAF when something goes wrong . . . My suggestion is to deploy all *Refurbished* hardware immediately and have them running for a 72 hour burn in period. If something is going to happen it most likely will show itself during what some call infant mortality syndrome. After the 72 hours burn in keep a close eye on those device well within the 30 day period to ensure they can be exchanged. Otherwise that $30.XX you believe you saved on isn't so much of a savings when they go poof . . .

Could you offer a little more insight about the Pronto RFX 9600 and what it does for you in your setup. I am intrigued to say the least! Glad it was all sorted out - Rock On . . .

The inherent downside of using programs vs scenes are programs relies on the controller / 2413S PLM being on line and active. Using a scene to link directly to all devices will always operate regardless of a controller / PLM being present. Scenes also react faster vs programs . . . You're only going to do this once so you might as well do it right the first time . . .

You don't add the 2413S PLM . . . Please follow this excellent document Paul B created to help facilitate the replacement process: http://forum.universal-devices.com/topic/19331-my-plm-died-and-i-bought-a-new-one-what-should-i-do-next/

You have my vote for a purpose built temperature / humidity sensor assuming Smartlabs doesn't decide to integrate the very same into an existing product like the motion sensor. It was really great to see the company take on several of my suggestions about the USB power and many others for the latest motion sensor. I truly believe once full development of the API of the latest motion sensor is released to the developers the consumer will be very impressed with the Insteon motion sensor. Back on topic: I believe there is a market for dedicated Insteon temperature / humidity sensor. My only ask and wants is the sensors must be accurate, offer wide range, and high resolution. As I pro consumer I am willing to pay extra for something that is reliable, accurate, and capable in all aspects of environmental monitoring. Lastly, like the latest motion sensor which offers USB power support I expect to have the same. The only difference is that this new product should use a hardwired power to compliment the battery and not supersede it. Like many here my home is and was inundated with countless battery operated devices. At this stage in my life I have no love for hardware that use batteries as the primary method to operate. I don't need or want the long term costs, reliability, and maintenance issues that comes with having to use said batteries.

If you're using the standard firmware it relies upon the 2413S PLM to be present. If you wish to have the ISY Series Controller ignore this problem you need only install the alternate firmware. Which completely ignores the 2413S PLM as being missing and not connected.

When electronics age things start to happen. Keep in mind older Insteon hardware such as the KPL have been impacted by the very same capacitor issues seen on the 2413S PLM. This could all be a sign the KPL's and not the load is the issue. Depends how old your KPL are and also if they all have the better 100~240 VAC PSU inside. ========================= The highest calling in life is to serve ones country faithfully - Teach others what can be. Do what is right and not what is popular.

Everything you've state thus far along with the video points to a noise from the LED loads. Whether they are noise makers vs signal suckers depends upon what the designers have placed inside of the hardware. Generally speaking anytime there are high value capacitors in place they will filter signals. Noise makers generally speaking come from the power supply of the internal ballasts of the hardware. The KPL you referenced does not formally support LED lighting . . . There are only two Insteon products that do which are the ILL and the other I don't recall off the top of my head. A snubber is normally used for items which offer CEMF / kick back like from a fan motor etc. The only reason I offered up the snubber is sometimes LED fixtures do a very poor handling of voltage field handling. A lay person would inquire WTF does voltage field handling mean?!? Basically when you see a LED fixture that tuns off abruptly at 10 to 5% of brightness this is the voltage field handling. Many LED fixtures will kick out huge amounts of voltage when it turns off. Engineers will *Normally* include filters to absorb this voltage spike. Many do a pretty good job while others not so much . . . NOTE: Using a random Snubber can depending upon where its placed on the circuit will impact the Insteon signal. This is why very specific Snubbers with the qualified capacitance value is called out for use.

Everything I've seen points to - a few possible issues: - KPL's are being impacted by the LED load which you stated can not be removed because they are integrated into the housing. Normally a person would remove the load and replace with a incandescent and the results would be self evident. In your case you will never know because nothing can be removed unless you go through the effort to do so. 100% of the time if a load can be turned on but can't be turned off its the load. If a device restore fix's the issue / hard reset its because the load is locking up the KPL and can also make it corrupt links in the hardware. You will probably find replacing the switches to solve the issue in the near term but rest assured that is a band aid because more than likely they too will become erratic / damaged. Moving forward your choices are to replace one single LED unit and see what happens. Or to purchase and install a few inline filters to see if that resolves the issues. In line filters will not resolve feedback issues and if that is the problem a snubber is the correct tool to use. These are the line filters that may help: https://www.x10.com/xpnr-noise-reducer.html This is one of many quality snubbers used by others: http://www.redlion.net/accessory/snub-r-c-snubber-inductive-load-supressor

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Hello Paulw, I've sent you a PM with the direct link to the repair process. Please scroll down to the last quarter of the thread to see the steps taken to repair the KPL.