Teken

That is the same bulb in the multi-pack which has the same poor customer reviews. I don't know if this is a bad trend with respect to Cree LED products or simply poor QA and component selections. The three sites that had communication issues all used Cree LED bulbs from HD. All of them were current stock with a manufacture date code of 2015. Speaking for myself only these aren't the bulbs I would be investing hard earned money for a Insteon enabled network. My SOP for a very long time has been to place any new electronic device on a ramped style burn in process. With LED bulbs its easy just to leave them running for 72 hours to see what happens. If nothing obvious happens and the Insteon network is still reliable I take a gamble and run all of the bulbs on a dedicated circuit. I do this before the seven day return policy kicks in for various retail stores. Even though 168 hours seems very short when compared to the manufactures unicorn 25,000 hours. My personal experience is most cheap products fail with in this period or show signs of defect. After seven days it really comes down to the most common mile marker and that is 30-90 days which seems to be what I saw at the other three sites. As a data point the average run time for all three sites was 6-8 hours. This in my mind is *A Typical* for a regular household but is outside of the 3 hour testing reference Cree and other companies use. One thing I've found to be really shocking in the lighting industry is that price doesn't always reflect build quality or solid design implementation. At $20.XX plus for a bulb one would have guessed you were getting a first rate product. I can state with 100% certainty that (IF) the POCO had not subsidized these sort of bulbs at 50-75% discount. None of the three sites would have even considered them for their install. 80 x $20.97 = $1677.60 USD, keeping in mind these same bulbs were $28.XX CDN plus here in our local market place. So that is $2240.XX before any tax's for light bulbs. Not sure anyone can say the three sites were going cheap when they bought these Cree bulbs . . .

All three are still being made and being sold in retail locations where as others were purchased on line. The primary LSG are A19 definity DFN 19 WW 120 85 CRI, 8 Watt, 425 Lumens, 3000K. I have similar ones which are 60/75 watt equivalent. The primary Sylvania are G25 Ultra LED 85 CRI, 7 Watt, 450 Lumens, 2700K. I have similar ones which are 75/100 watt equivalent. The primary Luminus are PAR20 LED Elite 90 CRI, 7 Watt, 500 Lumens, 3000K. Again, I have 60/100 watt equivalent bulbs in use too.

I would highly suggest you read the reviews for the Cree lights you referenced above. As there are many recent (2015) reviews indicating these bulbs have a short service life. On a related note I had three different sites that all had communication issues which took forever to narrow down and identify. One site had problems about 30 days after the commissioning of the Insteon network. Two other sites had issues about 90 plus days later and in each case it was found to be the HD Cree bulbs. Our POCO had a huge LED rebate (at the till discount) going on in the fall which all of the major vendors participated from Costco, Lowes, Home Depot, Walmart etc. All three sites purchased the same HD Cree bulbs in various wattages. The problem I saw was none of them made any hum, buzzing, flicker, pulsing at all. Meaning there was no way to determine if the bulb was the issue simply by looking / listening. I literally had to unscrew 80 plus bulbs to find out which one was causing the issues . . . Scaling a 25 foot ladder up & down dozens of times like a used toilet seat wasn't the best memories I'll ever have. All I can tell you is the race to the bottom in terms of pricing vs quality is close. All I know is the LSG, Sylvania, and Luminus LED bulbs I installed have been running perfectly fine for 5-7 years straight with out any issues.

Stan, Good to hear, now on to the next project!

-170001 are informational messages. http://wiki.universal-devices.com/index.php?title=ISY-99i/ISY-26_INSTEON:Errors_And_Error_Messages

Here is a over view of how some of the past units behaved: http://forum.universal-devices.com/topic/14895-insteon-leak-sensor-2852-222-review/?hl=%20leak%20%20sensor

In your photo I see three capacitors and would simply replace all three and see what happens. Verify that the resistor value is with in the percentage of accepted value too. Lastly, if all of the above has been changed out and in spec. But you find the device still not fully operational it could be one of several small IC's on the board. If that is the case you're a little SOL . . . Lastly, you will notice a small round and thin silver cylinder laying flat. If you notice its internal guts have exploded this needs to be replaced of course. It should be noted this specific part has been Achilles Heel for the first and second generation Lamp Lincs. Good luck and keep us all posted about the final outcome.

Hello Stan, In case this valuable information was not made known to you. Please consider taking the time to craft the programs offered by the author Belias: http://forum.universal-devices.com/topic/11566-leak-sensors-a-suggested-complete-program-package/?hl=%2Bleak+%2Bsensor

You just didn't say that?!?!? [emoji53][emoji38][emoji2] [emoji87][emoji86][emoji85]

As quoted . . .

I am like Oberkc where I like to keep things simple and (IF) only that simple method can't be accomplished than I move forward with program intervention. My suggestion is set the MS to night only mode and ensure the light sensitivity is set correctly and go from there.

You need to change the (IF) to *Control* vs Status. To add your program to the forum post simply right mouse click on the program and select copy to clip board. Then come back and select paste to the forum post.

No, this only applies to the Mobilinc Portal has nothing to do with the remote control App.

I believe you need to purchase the $49.XX module for the UDI Portal which the fee covers for a 2 year subscription.

I can't honestly say this problem has ever been seen by me using Mobilinc? All I do is press the button once to open and once to close. I see no value in the query of the relay since its a momentary state unlike the sensor. There must be something basic I am missing here that people are inferring to?

Glad everything worked out in the end my friend. Please do share the same information to others should the topic ever arise.

I would like to add UDI has enabled the ISY to send updates to most battery operated devices should they activate either by pressing the set button or sensing movement in the case of the MS. This feature does not work on all model years / firmware so be aware of this. Also, each device may require a specified wait period from 0-3 seconds before this process succeeds. HL2 had this remote wake and update forever and worked great for the MS. If you have lots of them in really high mounted positions give it a try, as trying is free! You will find this feature in the programs under the (THEN) -> MS of choice -> Write Device Update.

Read above again . . . If you don't understand the answers and the next steps that are outlined in red you need to move on.

Hello Harold, Apologies if I possibly led you astray . . . When I spoke about the metal JBOX in simple terms it has to do with switches, outlets, that are dual band. Any dual band device which is placed inside of a metal box will pretty much negate the RF signal from the device as the antenna is located in the rear of the housing. Any device that is simply plugged in to an outlet like a 2413S PLM, On-Off Relay etc would not be impacted by such as its sitting on the wall free air. First step is to confirm proper coupling / bridging via the 4 tap beacon test and review all floors, rooms, area, zones. If each room shows blinking green in those specific locations you're good to go in that aspect. Next, it comes down to isolating the noise maker(s) . . . Do not forget to look at all lighting loads from ceiling fans, CFL, LED, Florescent, etc. As I indicated in the first couple pages several sites which we installed a solid Insteon network started to fail. It took a considerable amount of time to determine that one home had 3-4 HD Cree bulbs that simply had something wrong with them. They operated just fine in terms of turning on-off, dimmed great and had a smooth curve, made no noise or flicker. But out of 44 bulbs that were in this clients house these 3-4 bulbs simply had problems and it could only be seen by removing them from the light rows. Meaning you can have 6 bulbs all in a circuit and literally it takes just one to cause you endless headaches.

Really? Then ignore what I said and carry on . . . Ha!

Sure, but the OP says he doesn't know why his MS doesn't work now? Having a program to do something based on an expected result which never happens isn't going to help anyone. But hey what the hell do I know . . .

I am looking forward to Echo coming to Canada one day and seeing the UDI portal offering more features. So far the team has done an incredible job with the integration with the Amazon Echo. Bravo . . .

OK, I believe there are some basics that need to be called out in case it was over looked. 1. If this device in anyway is defective send it back 2. Have you in fact set the light sensitivity to the MS and what is the current value being used? 3. You can not query a battery operated device ever as its asleep until it activates. 4. Assume all is well and it still doesn't activate to dusk. This means the level isn't low / high enough or the environmental is not being accurately being considered.

There is no doubt in my mind there are things either making noise or sucking the signal in the home. As the OP indicated a passive coupler has been installed on all related panels. As I have stated many times these passive couplers do not repeat, regenerate, or offer RF coupling. This is why its important to have a few plugin dual band devices that can be moved around to assist in the coupling / bridging. Regardless, all the coupling / bridging in the world will not supersede the need to identify the noise maker / signal sucker within the super structure of the home. Lastly, it would be a mistake in thinking a Insteon device that is installed into a metal JBOX will offer much help since the antenna is in the back of the casing.

The first step is setting the MS to the light level you believe reflects the environment its in. Keeping in mind the unit will ignore brief light exposure to reduce a false dusk / dawn trigger. That is your first step because if its set too high it will never go into dusk mode. If its set too low then if the area has lots of ambient light and never breaks that set threshold you wont ever see it. Afterwards in my mind it makes no sense to monitor if its in dusk / dawn. Why? Because what ever linked device you set for dusk / dawn will of course turn on or off based on the (assumed) setting. So returning the value of a linked device status in my mind would be easier, no?