andrew77

Hi Guys; I had many communication issues and one of the solutions a member said was to ensure the versions for the UI and the firmware matched. I've updated this morning and see that the Firmware is 4.6.2 and the UI is 4.5.4 Is there a way to fix this? The update seemed to go fine. Drew

Hi guys; So I'm muddling my way through setting up the RL2s and I notice this. When I have a RL2 button trigger a scene that is also triggered by a KPL button (both D buttons if that makes a difference) The KPL LED turns on when the RL2 button is pushed (as I would expect) but when I press the RL2 button to shut off the scene the LED remains lit. Is this what should happen and do I have to write a program that then says if RL2 buttons are pressed off then turn off (*made up scene that only has the KPL LED in it as a responder*)? Also, just to confirm, I can't make a RL2 button control a device directly correct? I have to make a scene with that device in it? Drew

Hi Stu; Its an 8 button RL2 set to the regular mode (on off) for now. Again, when I had it set to non toggle, I couldn't shut anything off. Hi Teken; I think my issue was I'd press scene A on. Then want to press scene B. This would send an OFF signal and leave us literally in the dark. Thus having to press the Scene B button again. I also noticed I can't make the buttons on a RL2 belong to a group like I do with the KPLs. Is there a way to be able to... Send an ON signal by pressing the A button, then... Send an ON signal by pressing the B button? It seems the remote wants to send an ON signal by pressing A and then the next signal it will send will be an OFF signal regardless of what button I press next. Drew (I hope this isn't nonsensical ramblings at this point)

Hi guys; Is there anyway to change this? I tried having them as non toggle on but then I can't shut anything off. (seems to be the opposite issue) non toggle on also ends up lighting up every KPL LED in the house after a few scene changes. Any thoughts? Drew

I always take a quick snapshot of the device on my iPhone and leave it in a folder on the Mac. I also run a topography as well.

Again, I think I'll ask my electrician if he's got a good looking solution as opposed to the junction box approach. There must be an outdoor rated fashionable box other than the galvanized octagons.

Will that look good? Or would it look like a junction box mounted to the side of the house with a light screwed on to it?

I'll talk to my electrician and see if theres a good looking box as opposed to a clunky piece of Sputnik sticking out of the side of my house that lowers the property value of neighbours' houses.

I live in a ranch style so it's above a bedroom. I'll add to the wiring existing in the attic.

So... Sounds like this plan is kaput. Any thoughts on how I can do this? To recap; I want to put an LED light up high on an outside wall of my house. The placement of the light would would be high enough that the wiring through the wall could come directly out of the attic. I don't relish the idea of tearing up drywall to run a SWL to the light, hence the ILL. From this discussion it sounds as if it isn't a solution. Drew Stu and Teken I wrote this reply before you posted your replies. I don't think the ILL would fit in a box with the LED light on it (all outside) and look very good.

In the attic. It'll probably hot in summer. I'm not certain how hot it gets up there.

Not right now. But I'll look to see if I can find it.

If you mean putting the ILL inside a switch box I can do that. I assumed the ILL fits inside one. I wouldn't have the wires tied and just hanging out not shielded in an electrical box.

It won't be motion activated. Its a multi head LED fixture, very simple. I'm not sure what you mean by 'offering a direct link to the LED"?

My issue is as I stated above. The wiring for the device will be in the attic. No extra wiring will be brought down in to the house. I was hoping this device would let me do as I described. Its sounding as if its not a good idea now...

Could I not just throw the breaker if I need to change the bulb? Do these inline products fail a lot?

Good point. I'll go for the dimmable Inline link http://www.smarthome.com/in-linelinc-dimmer-insteon-2475da1-remote-control-in-line-dimmer-dual-band.html I believe this is what I want then?

Hi Larry; Do I need to install a SWL to control the light? Will this device not let me control the light from a KPL elsewhere in the house? Hi Teken; I won't need to dim the light as it'll solely be a spotlight for letting dogs out the basement walkout. What device should I be looking for then? Drew

Hi guys; I want to put an outdoor LED spotlight on the side of my house. The location of the picture would be high enough so that the wiring would come from inside the attic to the outer wall. Clearly I can't go into the attic to turn the light on and off so I'm wondering off this is what I need http://www.smarthome.com/in-linelinc-relay-insteon-2475sdb-remote-control-in-line-on-off-switch-dual-band.html Unless theres a better suited device to buy. Drew

Hi Larry; The three pack dimmers was the reason I started this thread. I don't need dimmers as much as ON/OFF modules but I couldn't find a deal on them.

I figured as much but thought I'd put the question out there. Thanks Paul

Hi guys; Just saw a Black Friday sale on a three pack of these (Insteon LampLinc Plug In Dimmer) and was wondering if I could use this dimming LampLinc with a non dimming item such as a fan. If I have the ON/OFF ramp rates at 0 Let me know, If I'm allowed to plug the store where the sale is I'd love to share but I don't know what the rules for advertising on the forum are.

I've cranked the SWL LED brightness setting int he ISY and still no LEDs When I did the the above test (holding the set button, etc) the LEDs lit through the whole 'tree'(?) so I know they work and I've not broken them . Is there a possible way I shut them off manually trying to 4 tap the SWL? If so, how do you get it back to the way it was? Any thoughts are greatly appreciated. Drew

Hi techman; Thank you for the tip. Clearly I had an ID10T moment. I checked other SWL LED brightness levels and they're all 0. What is the standard LED brightness level from the factory? Gary, I do use the ISY for the programming. I was attempting to diagnose an issue by using the elusive 4 tap method and thought I should correct it by using the same physical means. Drew

Hi guys; In an attempt to troubleshoot some instead issues I seem to have shut off the LEDs on the side of a Switchlinc. I've googled and found the method below but seem to be missing something as I can't get it to work. IS this right or is there a step missing? Press & hold the Set button until it beeps (3 seconds) The Status LED will begin blinking Press & hold the Set button until it beeps again (3 seconds) The Status LED will continue blinking Press & hold the Set button until it beeps a third time (3 seconds) The Status LED will stop blinking Use the paddle to brighten or dim the LEDs to the desired brightness Press & hold the paddle top to brighten Press & hold the paddle bottom to dim