lilyoyo1

There's a big difference between 800 and 1100 lumens. 800 lumens are standard 60w equivalent led bulbs. This is what I use throughout my house. My flood lights are 1600 each bulb (3200 total) and those are plenty bright. I couldn't imagine having that much light in a single room (6600 in my bathroom ceiling alone if using milights)but to each their own.

I personally don't use "smart" bulbs for main lighting. Hue bulbs are about 800 lumens which is more than sufficient for me. If you're looking for blinding light then it probably wouldn't be suitable. I reserve smart bulbs/strips for lamps and accent lights. For 1, it's cheaper to use a switch with regular bulbs and 2, I want to avoid anything that needs to go through something to work. If my hub or isy fails, my lights will still work. If my hue hub fails or router goes out, I'm left in the dark. When it does happen, we all know it'll be 10 at night when I need it working the most. If lamps or accent lights fail to operate, I won't lose any sleep. I can get to it when I get to it. But if my regular lights go out, I have to drop everything and do it then

Personally I prefer hue as it has a strong ecosystem outside of Isy (I cant wait for the hue box to be released). I also prefer using a hub vs WiFi for a variety of reasons. Especially when using a large number of devices. Lifx would be my second choice as I like that they are building a full ecosystem. I've also seen their customer support responsiveness first hand. Many people here like Milight for the price point. It fits all that you say so it may be you best bet

Factory reset motion sensor and re-try. Also, make sure it's in linking mode while you're adding

You can just purchas the zwave module. Zwave plus is zwave. Just the newer version.

I doubt it's a low load issue. I've used all insteon dimmers with less load than that (except for 2474). It may be an issue with your particular bulbs itself

You could just put a sensor on the door. A device installed locally would provide better information over a cloud based system

You're welcome. Glad I could assist

The OP says he THINKS which means he assumes. He could be wrong. It could be from devices within the home as we as other stuff. At the end of the day he bought a 100 dollar item which can help his home but doesn't hurt. It would cost more than the 90 bucks the Eaton costs just to get an electrician to take a look at his grounding which may or may not be an issue.

When you create a scene, you must set the device states in the scene itself and on the controller. Because your scene works properly when you control the scene but not manually, It sounds like you only set your device parameters in the scene. Look at the scene you created. Click on your controller device (the controller is red). You'll have to set your device parameters there as well

Did you set everything in the controller as well or just the actual scene in the isy?

That sounds about right. The dual outlet is like a kpl in that the primary is the top /main and the bottom is a secondary device so it behaves differently to certain commands. With it being a relay, technically there is no fast on/off. What were you hoping to accomplish

They dont want to make it official until they get zwave plus certification. Michel has stated multiple times they wont make it official until they are certified

The isy receives infrared it does not send. It allows you to trigger programs from the signal it receives While I use the harmony nodeserver I've never looked to see if those buttons can be mapped. I prefer 1 touch actions such as my lights turning down when I go to watch a movie etc.

That's another thing I forgot to mention. Voice control cuts down on the amount of keypads and remotes. In previous homes, I spent much more money on additional kpls, buttons for them, and remotes than I'll ever pay for the portal. All in an effort to manually control secondary devices every blue moon. Now, if I want to change the temperature, air purifier, etc. I just tell it vs needing a button for that control

Any wall plate will work with Insteon. They are standard size switches

I don't view voice control as a failure in automation or lacking in automation in itself. For me it's an additional avenue of convenience. Automation can't cover everything. Voice folks in the blanks much like a remote does. For example, when I go into the kitchen to cook, I can tell Google that I'm cooking. It'll then run my cooking program that turns on all the lights, sets the under cabinet lights to Bright white, turns on the exhaust fan and starts my music. I can do this from my keypad as well but keeps me from having to do so. The best part is that it doesn't need to be used. If you don't feel like using it, it's there dormant. If you do, it's ready

Stop repeating your copy and paste posts and go away. Así said before, the op had made his voice so everything you are saying is irrelevant.

Can you just go away!!!??? You keep repeating the same thing over and over. The op had already gotten his answer, decided his path, purchased and installed the device. He's happy and can now move forward. Go troll somewhere else.

I don't have to cite anything. I'm not on here copying and pasting irrelevant information like you are. The op asked for specific information that I have answered as well as others. You came here trolling as usual. Just making the op aware this is how you operate.

If you didn't click on save changes then that would be why it's disappearing. You didn't save it. Since you're using 5.10 you should also update to 5.15 as that is the latest one and may already have a fix if what you are experiencing is a bug

I don't know why everyone is still replying to Westom. He's a troll who simply copies and pasted stuff from websites that have no bearing on the conversation. Hopefully @Michel KohanimKohanim band him again

Don't listen to Westom. He's a troll that goes around doing copy and paste jobs to act like he knows something (look at his responses to me). Go with your whole home surge protector and you'll be ok. Don't get me wrong, grounding matters but at this point the cost to check and potentially redo your grounding is a serious cost. Surge protection is a3 step thing. One at the meter, whole whole and then local such as the ones with power strips and outlets. Mine was installed at the meter when the house was built. Your utility company may or may not allow them so I wouldn't worry about it touch. The others you can control so I would focus on that part.

Another copy and paste job. Trolling sure has seen better days. To bad you don't have any original thoughts. At least change things up some. Ok...Thank you

This is why I said you should try both approaches to see what works best for you. Both styles are pretty easy if you're accustomed to it. I feel the opposite in that scenes are easier to manage. Overall there is a time and place for both ways as there are pros and cons. For me, I don't want to depend on my ISY. If you're too heavy into programming, you are at the mercy of the isy. Scenes will always work.