lilyoyo1

There's an additional module that you can get for it that does. I personally don't ever use it though

This is what I use on installs now. I used to use leviton but switched over. I still use a leviton surge protector on my meter. https://www.amazon.com/CHSPT2ULTRA-Ultimate-Protection-Length-Height/dp/B01AQAKRSS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1551131394&sr=8-1&keywords=EATON+CHSPT2ULTRA

That model is sold in Home Depot and Lowe's. You may be able to order it online from them. Since your fan controls are all upstairs and embedded, most likely you will need additional devices Aeotec has plug in repeaters. Instead of using that, I would recommend a couple of devices that will allow for dual use such as plug in lamp or dimmer modules.

Any zwave lock would work. All of the major players such as Yale, Schlage, kwikset, and Baldwin make them. 4 devices may be enough for your zwave mesh but that depends on the devices you have, their capabilities, and locations. Since you didn't give any of that information we can't really help on that. Your repeating devices (at least the one that directly talks to your locks) needs to support beaming otherwise it will not work properly with locks. They all pretty much operate the same so it comes down to personal style. Schlage is known to be the most secure while kwikset is the least. For me, all are more about convenience over security

As to a Google routine and you can say open the blinds

I would have the switch disable the motion sensor when manually turned on. When you manually turn off the light, include a wait before re-enabling the motion sensor. I prefer separate programs but it can be done in 1. This allows time to get out of the bathroom before the lights turn on If switch A is switched on And switch A is not switched off Then disable motion program Or else wait 30 seconds enable motion program The downside of programming the way you are is people needing to remember different caveats just to lose the bathroom. This can cause a bigger headaches then it's worth.

I do live in a hot/humid place but leave mine off until I utilize the room

This part would be personal preference. I personally don't mind it.

Create a second program If control fan is switched off Then disable fan program Wait 1 hr enable program

I'd say 95% (if not more)of my setup is scene based ( @larryllixfavorite setup. Lol). All you're doing is creating a program that activates based off your system. You can do this based on control (manual) or status. I prefer status but that choice is on you. I use status just in case I go out during the day. Since my lights are activated based on programs, hitting a button or unlocking the door while it's daylight doesn't turn on lights. Once the sun goes down, everything turns on accordingly. The same applies with the motion sensors. In my case, I have a program for my back yard that says something like: If status back door is unlocked or Patio relax or patio party is not off Then disable motion program As I stated previously, my offs are always kept separate so I also enable the program should the buttons be off and door is locked.

I do my setup differently. My motion program is separate from everything I do. Whether it's floodlights or patio, my lights turn on/off based on motion. My motion off programs are also separately programmed. This allows me more leeway with programming With that said, anything I initiate in order to be outside simply disables my motion program. Unlock the back door, the light turns on and my motion program automatically disables. It gets re-enabled when I either manually turn off the light, lock the door back, or auto times out. The same goes for any of my outdoor scenes. By doing it this way, I don't have to track light states and such

You can increase links by decreasing scenes and using programs instead. One thing that I do is create scenes with all responders then have the controller activate that scene via a program. This allows me to initiate double taps as well as save a few links. I also create a single scene for each room. This allows me to use that one scene for multiple things such as all on/off,y away scenes, and good night. I also don't have every insteon device in my isy. All my outlets are smart outlets. In regards to my insteon outlets, only the ones actively used are added to my isy. The rest are simply there until needed. I know some people don't manage every device such as 3way Hall lights. They'll link them outside of the isy since they don't have any use in the isy for them. I'm not one of them as any device I use the isy does something with it. I've also invested in other technologies as well which takes some burden off the plm. For example, all lamps use hue bulbs. Those are controlled with network resources. I also use zwave outlets and sensors which saves additional plm space since those do not use the plm either.

You're pushing against the Mac that the plm holds

What device is showing (35.6f.26)

I doubt it as is happening at approximately the same exact time and it's the only device turning on. The all on turned everything on. I'm with Beninsteon in regards to using the iolinc. At one time the iolinc was the only option. Now, with zwave and MyQ being available, I would recommend using something else.

To be honest, the videos make it extremely simple. If anything it's the simplist way. After watching them, if the process is still too complicated, I would recommend purchasing UDI'S new controller Polisy as it would be the best path for you to take. @simplextechhas an image hes testing which may help you get Polyglot on a raspberry pie. I would definitely try that route as well.

That's the one the one I use. It does work with the isy. I added mine to the isy before installing (I do that with all devices) so it may be a range issue for you due to being embedded

Have you tried it with Alexa groups? Add both devices to that group and control it that way The problem with the isy creating a special scene is how insteon scenes work at the device level. UDI can't change that

A scene is a scene for all intents and purposes. It can be 1 device or 100. The ISY nor Alexa can know what its used for. Yes it's trivial to you because you know what it is and what is used for. For both devices it's simply a scene. You already can set up your devices the way you want. BMercer stated in the paragraph after his opening how to be able to set it up in order to give it the commands that you want to give it. You just have to do it.

The only way to set up a three way with Insteon is via scenes. Insteon's definition and Amazon's definition (Google and crapple too) are all different. They all want you to use "their" groupings for that type of stuff. There's actually a few posts if you search through the Alexa subforum which talks about this. Due to how insteon/zwave works, it's hard to ascertain what a person is asking for as there are many different things that could be going on. You say you want to set a scene to a specific percentage, what does that really mean? For example, you have a scene with 5 devices. 2 turn off, 1 goes to 50%, 1 is at 90%, and the other at 30%. If you told Alexa to go to 50%, are you saying send all devices to 50% or just the ones that are on? Are you saying to take them to 50% brightness level or half of what they are currently set at? If the scene is off, do you want all devices at 50% or specifically, the devices that are supposed to turn on? As you can see, the capabilities for scenes doesn't jive with what could be. With that said, instead of calling your lights a scene, add the scene but label it as a light per the instructions in the post that you question comes from

It died. At this point, with zwave ramping up the way it has been and upb being such a niche protocol, I highly doubt the idea would be resurrected

With you having a couple hundred devices, your Restore should take a couple of hours. Generally I do a restore plm>restore devices. Either way, manually triggering a scene/device from the isy should still turn them on. I would try plugging the plm into a different outlet or location to see if that helps things

For those of us on here that also uses the isy professionally, I think part of the lack of interest is needing/wanting to be in control of the project. This includes (but not limited to) hardware used, installation, vendors, sub contractors etc. For those with the skills but does this as a hobby, it comes down to the points that jec6613 stated.

Wasn't sure what you were asking because you don't have to delete devices from the isy if you're starting over. You would simply factory reset it. When it comes to new devices, myself and many others factory reset our new devices since they are tested at the factory and may have leftover links in the them that could cause issues down the road.