stusviews

Before the advent of Open and Close being available as a smartphone app Routine, I thought of ON places the window covering on the window (closed) and OFF places the window covering off the window (opened). That seems related to the privacy scheme (which I also like).

With 300 device, you're apt to have lots and lots of links. You may need to add a second ISY. You'd need to ensure that no scenes or programs access any device on the other ISY. If you have scenes that include many devices such as an All Off or All on, then you can reduce the link count by using a program instead of scenes. The devices will respond sequentially instead of concurrently. I actually got to like that approach with the devices furthest away turning off first, moving toward where I execute the command (KPL button). Bit with the number od devices you have, the second solution may only serve to buy you some more time before you'll need a 2nd ISY and PLM).

On occasion, I found that recreating a non-functioning program solved the problem. On another note-you can combine your ON and OFF programs using the conditional below: If From Sunset - 30 minutes To 2:00:00AM (next day) Just add the Then statements from your ON program to Then and your Then statements from the OFF program to Else. The Then statements will execute at 30 min before sunset and the Else statements will execute at 2:00AM the following day.

Post the part of the log from, say, two minutes before the program runs until two minutes after or at least one minute on each side if there's a lot of traffic.

You may have approached the PLMs limit of 1,000 links. Anything more than 900 can be a problem. What's your PLM link count. It's best to do it at a quiet time, traffic can change the count. Try three or more times, each count will differ, but they should be close.

I created two programs for each window covering. One is defined as a light, so I can use On to close the covering and Off to open it. The smartphone app allows me to use Close and Open instead of On and Off. The second program is used for a preset position. You should be able to achieve the same results using programs. IFTTT is not needed. Is there not an Alexa app for Google Home?

There are no longer "typical" lights. However, as incandescent bulbs age, they usually glow a bit less bright. That has no effect on HA devices. As LED and CFL bulbs age, they often add "noise" to the powerline. That noise can be troublesome to HA devices. An easy check is to use an all incandescent load as a check. If the problem remains, then it's likely the device. But if communication improves, then the load is the culprit. If you've ever updated the ISY (e.g., automatic update), then you're firmware and UI may not match and it the likely source of the errant behavior you're seeing. If that's the case, then the cure is simply to update them so that they're identical. Help, About will show the versions.

I sometimes change the status of some lights while I'm away, most often while I'm waiting for my wife to get dressed for dinner. I also peek in at the cameras, both interior and exterior

Have you ever coded? If so, then what's the easy solution. BTW, an actual solution was posted; See post #3. See, it really is easy, but a bit tedious

Main concern, what are the loads? As important; does the UI match the firmware version?

The closest to what you seem to be requesting is that the Alexa app will allow you to change which of two accounts is being controlled. The app can't report who is the account owner.

Red indicates that the last time the program ran, it evaluated as false (Else statements, if any, ran), green means that the program evaluated as true (Then statements were run). There is no color indicator if the program is new or was recently modified and hasn't yet been evaluated.

If the ISY firmware and UI do not match, then you can expect the unexpected

Nope. Anny additions need to be manually Discovered as well as changes. And don't forget to Forget deleted devices, scnes and program. Alexa never forgets unless instructed to. Look for anything that indicates that it's offline.

Has the portal ever shown as registered? Did you follow all the steps required?

You can't actually see a fast on or off from an On/Off device. The only way to detect it is via a program setting.

I'm under the same impression, namely, that v5+ is needed to store the On-Level for each device. But, if the OP has a usual On-Level (I do), then only that level needs to be reset. So for example, our living room is normally at 20% and the kitchen at 50%, then I need only restore those levels. The same goes for other lights that are normally on during the late evening and early night.

Yes, there should be a field for the temperature as shown below: You may want to factory reset the thermostat and the restore device followed by write updates. BTW, mine is powered from a computer USB port.

1. You need to add the Z-Wave module if you don't already have one. 2. V4.6.1 or 4.6.2 supports only the basic functions for the new MS, nothing can be changed. I believe that v5+ provides more support.

That's usually a communication problem. A wait and or repeat immediately before the errant devices helps.

Ensure that the Mini Remote is fully charged. Delete the device from the ISY, do a factory reset, re-add the remote. Any success? BTW, what doe the ISY indicate as the last three digits of the remote, -2 doesn't identify the specific recognized device?

Have you actually tried the FanLinc? There's no Z-Wave equivalent. The Z-Wave devices can control your light or your fan, but not both. Here's the Version 5+ Link.

I don't see anything related to the portal.

Try it. All that's required to verify success is to unplug the PLM.

Nope, I'm addressing failure of the PLM only. If the ISY fails, then no message is possible at all. I mentioned Z-Wave only because those devices continue to function even if the PLM fails