stusviews

Although a bit awkward 1) can be accomplished now via separate portal sub-accounts. I, too, would like to be able to sync both music and timers. A problem I see is that if unique IDs become a reality, then syching would be more difficult.

Internet Access as shown in Tools should be disabled. Select Configuration, Portals. You may need to wait a few seconds. What does it show under Portal Configuation?

http://www.universal-devices.com/contact-support/

What isn't working? What fails? Are you not able to use the Echo Dot at all?

Yes. Allow about 10 seconds after powering on the PLM before supplying power to the ISY.

You can add one additional account to your Prime account. And there are a some music sources available that do not require Prime, such as Pandora and Spotify.

Automatic upgrades appear only if there's an official release that's later than the version that you're currently using. What do you mean that you can't upgrade manually. Can you be more specific?

The contractor apparently has no understanding of the instructions I provided. It seems that the contractor wants to control power to the FanLinc via a switch. That's completely wrong. The FanLinc requires unswitched power. Also regarding a third wire to the existing switch, a third wire is not only not needed, it has no purpose and would not be connected to anything. The Keypad. like the FanLinc, requires unswitched power. The load wire from the Keypad is not only not used, it is totally incorrect to connect it to anything. In summary, both the FanLinc and the Keypad require uninterrupted line and neutral. The load wire from the Keypad is capped and unused. The FanLinc has two load wires, one for the light and the other for the fan.

I'm not aware of any limit to the number of Echos and /or Dots that can be on the same account. There are three possible wake words. Alexa, Amazon and Echo. The portal has a five account limit. There is no need to have more than one Amazon/portal account unless you want to use the same command with different Echos and expect a different result. For example, If I ask Alexa to, "turn on the light," while I'm in the bedroom, only the bedroom light comes on. But if I use the same command while I'm in the living room, only the living room light illuminates. I can accomplish that because the Echo devices in the bedroom are on a different Amazon/portal account than the Echos in the living room. Further, if I want to turn on the bedroom light from the living room, then I need to specify so, that is, "Alexa, turn on the bedroom light."

What specifically doesn't work for you? The procedure is to use the portal to add devices, scenes and/or programs, assign a spoken and then use the Alexa app to discover devices. Where is that not working for you?

The good news is that you do not need to add any wiring. There is no bad news The standard wiring for a switch loop with only two wires is the make the white wire line and the black wire load. That's done so that the fixture does not have two white wires connected to it (then fixture is already connected to neutral). That wiring needs to be changed so that the black wire is line and the white wire is neutral. The change occurs at the fixture. Any and all questions are welcome.

The KPL should be connected to line and neutral. If there are only two wires, then the wiring at the fixture needs to be changed. The red load wire gets capped (unused). The FanLinc also connects to line and neutral. The FanLinc should get unswitched power.

You should actually see Light and Motor. Light should have the usual Current State, On Level and Ramp rate sliders and Motor should have a slider with four positions, Off, Low, Medium and High. If you don't see all of that, factory reset the FanLinc and reinstall it. Any success?

Got 'em. Four black, two white. I've already taken advantage of the new software (ESP) with my current three Echos and three Dots and four accounts, so the next task is location, location, location.

Reset the ISY before you do anything else. Nope, read the ISY-994i Series User Guide first. All Ethernet cables can be wired in advance. Plug in the PLM after verifying that the circuit is clean. Wait 10 or more seconds and power up in the ISY. The ISY can be plugged in virtually anywhere that is convenient. All signals are transmitted and received via the Ethernet cables. The power supply for the ISY further isolates it from the power line.

Yes, if you intend to start anew. No, if you want to save what you already have.

Why should I agree that 10% (actually 9%) is not enough when I find it adequate--depending on the starting level. I'll agree that we disagree BTW, if you control the device instead of a scene, then you can vocally set the On-level percentage.

Reboot the ISY.

If you intend to start from scratch you may want to reset the ISY first.

It's really difficult to find things in the glove compartment from 1.5 miles away.

A motion sensor doesn't really detect motion, it actually detects slight changes in heat such as exhibited by a moving human or other animal. that's why they're called passive infrared (PIR) sensors. So, moving the bin is unlikely to cause a signal to be sent. Yes, there are women on the forum, but it's male dominated, probably because males are more likely to be tinkerers. Maybe that will change

I've looked at all my virtual 3-ways and can't see which is the primary. I guess that I could remove them for that determination--or simply view the labels I created in the Admin Console

I don't use any of my Echos or Dots to listen to music because I have a killer sound system. It's simply fun to voice control nearly everything in our home; lights, fans, HVAC, window coverings and audio and video systems. And it's really handy to turn on a light when both hands are full. Or turning the light off after getting into bed.

Correct. There's actually no different between main and subaccounts, except that the first account you create is considered the "main" account. Each portal requires a corresponding Amazon account.

If you want to use the same command in different rooms and have those commands control different devices in each room (e.g., light, fan, lamp), then you'll need an Amazon account for each room. If devices have the same wake word and are within earshot of each other, then only the Dot/Echo that hears the word first will respond. I currently have four accounts and use three wake words to achieve what you want. I'd avoid any speaker system that relied on batteries, even if they're rechargeable. Edit: only one portal account is needed for up to five Alexa app accounts.