Brian H

Yes. They replaced the nice NO/NC magnetic sensor. With a magnetic sensor used for security systems.

The older Garage Door Kit had a magnetic sensor. That had both a Normally Open and a Normally Closed set of contacts. You could pick NC or NO depending on which two of the three colored wire you used. I believe you had to use the Reverse Trigger so the sensor matched the doors ststus. Problem is the nightly status check run by the ISY994i got the sensors real status not the reversed logic set in the options. SM226L-3Q

Thank you for the information. I am sure it will be very useful to many here.

In the Help Tab. About choice. It should give you the Firmware and UI versions. That is where you can verify both are the same revision. If the memory card was not seated. I doubt you would have been able to do what is working now and only the Programs seem to be bad.

Thanks for the ISY994i model number. What module is the one being controlled by the ISY994i? Like a 2450 I/OLinc maybe?

What module are you using to control the water valve? That will help in getting you a clearer answer.

Are any of the front panel LEDs flashing in a pattern? Only the Power On LED should be On unless you are doing something. https://wiki.universal-devices.com/index.php?title=Main_Page#Front_Panel_LEDs.2FLights When you power it up. Make sure you power up the 2413S PLM first and let it initialize. Then power up the ISY994i so it can find the PLM as it boots up. You may want to power down everything and verify the SD card is securely seated in its socket. On the chance it is poorly seated.

I was replying to KC10Brain. Sorry if you thought I was posting to you!

In an early reply to this thread. It was indicated the Siren Module is supported as of V5.0.9. I know my V4.7.3 does not. Is an unknown model module .

I have not seen any sources lately. You may find some users that have the unused color light pipes. I think the original kits had four of the same color light pipes. It was replaced with the kit with two of each color and we had left over unwanted colored pipes. I found the Frosted ones where good in some of my locations. You maybe surprised if you have any of the 2477S On/Off switches ordered. The face of them now only has the On and Off LED positions. All the unused ones between Off and On are now gone on the latest versions. The eight position light pipe looks like it may not even fit the present one with only On and Off LED pipes.

If you have a PRO version of the ISY994i. Is the automatic writes to battery powered devices enabled. I have had strange things happen if I didn't enable it. The old one is not a original 2440 or 2440BK RmoteLinc is it?

The logs will probably not show any power supply issues.

The ISY994i's power supply maybe failing. I have seen those small switching wall wart power supplies cause all kinds of strange things. There have been a few threads here on then failing.

The Range Extender module is a 2457D2 Dual Band LampLinc with the dimmer electronics not installed. The Old power line only PLM was the 2412S models. I doubt new users would have one.

The internal photos of the original FanLinc are in the FCC Database. Schematics where not made public. It looks like they have four triacs in it and two AC rated capacitors. My thoughts are one of them is for the light control and is a typical dimmer circuit. The others switch the AC capacitors into and out of the fans feed to control its speed.

From a web search. Starter Bundle. ISY994i, 2413S PLM, X10 module and 3 Month trial of the Portal

Insteon bulbs are no longer being sold by Smarthome. So you probably will have to find an alternate light source. Hopefully one that an ISY994i can control.

The LED briefly flashing with power up is a typical capacitor failing symptom with switching power supplies. Replacing them with a good quality capacitor rated for switching power supply will usually fix the issue. Since you have a V2.3 C7 is the 220uF/50 V capacitor directly on the switching supplies output and is mounted horizontal over the PCB on long leads. If you can safely power it up with the front cover off. The voltage on the two C7 leads should be around 21.5 volts. I suspect it is very low and the five volt logic regulator is out of regulation. You may also see some of them bulging, rubber seal on the bottom swollen, top split to relieve the internal pressure from a failing capacitor. I looked at the capacitors we used in the 2413S PLMs. They looked like they should fit but size of replacements is kind of tight. The boards layout is different than the PLMs.Three of the values are the same as what we used in the PLM. C7 is the different one 220uF/50V in the rev 2.3. I had picked up a few 220uF/50V Low Impedance caps for future use. They are physically bigger and I don't know if mine will fit if I have to fix one. Tip. If you open the top cover. Go gentile. The beeper is glued to the top cover and I busted off the wires from the board on the beeper end under the glue holding it. The component glue holding C7 maybe a problem. Depending on how generous the factory was. The glue holding the LED from sliding in can also sometimes need gentle persuasion the pop off. Buying a new one would be easier but fixing it would be a nice reward.

The symptoms look like the power supply is failing. LED on for a short time is one of the symptoms. The 2450 I/OLinc does not use all the same value capacitors. There is a link here to what differences found in different revision 2450 I/OLincs. Mainly the C7 value. If you had a older revision I would recommend a 220uf/50 volt to replace the smaller values in older revisions. Low ESR or rated for switching supply use capacitors would be best. I believe the other three are the same as in the 2413S PLMs. https://forum.universal-devices.com/topic/21417-io-linc-hardware-differences-between-revisions/

I agree. The new plastic used in the present cases is not as good as the old plastic used in the older cases.

Yes. Both the old 2456D and present 2457D2 LampLinc modules have local control sensing. This small sensing voltage is enough to keep low power LEDs glowing when Off. The older 2456S ApplianceLinc also has the sensing current and will cause low wattage LEDs to glow. The 2635-222 On/Off modules don't have the sensing voltage and don't cause a low wattage LED to glow. The LampLinc manuals indicate you can turn On and Off local control sensing. I have found the sensing voltage is still there when disabled. Just ignored if you toggle the lamps local switch from on to off and back on. Found differences in the 2457D and 2457D2 manuals. Some of the older revisions did not have sensing. So I can't say if the small voltage is on the older revisions.

The 2443 Access Points have been replaced with the Insteon 2992-222 Range Extender. If your tests show it maybe needed. https://www.smarthome.com/insteon-2992-222-range-extender.html The 2450 I/OLinc is power line only. So if the power line Insteon signals don't reach its location. You possibility could need one. Since it is a 2457D2 LampLinc with out the dimmer parts. Some have the LampLinc or On/Off module. For future automation upgrades.

If you are curious. You could open the Event Viewer in Level 3. Then run the Scene Test and see what is displayed for module in question. In a scene that passed and the scent that the module failed. To see if the Max Hops=1 and what the Max Hops Left= is.

The Scene Test is a strict communications test. Turns the Scene being tested On and then Off. It sets the Max Hops=1 and if the module does not ACK with a Hops Left=1. The test shows a module as failed if the ACK is not received back. Probably if the Hops Left =0. I suspect that particular module in the tested scene . Is not sending an ACK back with out decreasing the Hops left count and showing a fail. I have had a Scene Test show a failed module but in normal use. I have seen no problems with the module.

The magnetic switch probably failed and was not closing when it should of.