Brian H

UPS units have a power line conditioner in them. Many will absorb the Insteon power line signals. Even if is not a bad noise maker. You may want to FilterLinc it any way. Unless your equipment uses over its 10 amp fuse rating. There are still a few 15 amp X10 ones {FilterLinc was originally an X10 one} still made that can be used. I suspect the power supplies in the dimmer switches and plug in modules are a different design. Both look like small switcher. The plug in are 120V 60Hz and the wall switches 100V-277V. 50/60Hz. That may contribute to the level of sensitivity to power line noise. Between a plug in and a wired in wall dimmer.

Glad you got it working again. I will have to remember the Replace With Function could be used. Thank you for verifying it. Floating ANI1 and ANI2 inputs can cause noise to randomly trigger them on and off. I can see why the loss of them being held at Common with the jumper. Could cause issues.

Never used a EZIO8SA with an ISY994i. Mine are originaly released one from Compacta with original now obsolete firmware. My tests with a spare PLM and EZIO8SA was not conclusive. That sound interesting. If you added it with the new PLM and not deleting the old one. Would the replace with function in the Administrative Console. Put it new Insteon ID from the EZIO8SA/PLM into the devices linked to it. A total back up of the ISY994i before anything should be done.

The replacement PLM will have a different Insteon six digit ID number with the device Category and Subcategory written in the PLM to the ones used by the EZIO8SA. I am not sure how the ISY994i controller handles the EZIO8SA. I agree that for now. You don't do anything that may loose everything. I tied looking at the Smartenit Wiki for some information. Got a page 401 page not found for the EZIO8SA and their forums are gone.

It does sound like the relay is in the continuous mode. First time you turn it On it goes On and stays there. Like you are holding the button. So you send a command and it turns back Off. Then the next turns it back On to then have the door go its other position.

Some dimmable LED bulbs. May have a AC rated capacitor directly across the AC input to suppress the internal electronics noise. Some add a small coil before the capacitor on the Line terminal. So they don't absorb power line signals like X10 or Insteon. Since the I/O Linc is power line only. Some LED bulbs could also absorb power line signals.

Depending on the buzzer you used. The Siren Module will be much louder. Try it leaving the optional plastic piece over the sound port first. Mine is painful when you are close and the sound port fully open.

You have a 2477D controlling an outlet? If you do that is against the Electrical Code and illegal. If someone plugged in a loads not compatible with a dimmer. It can be damaged or worse. Including a low voltage wall wart. The wall wart in the photo is a universal switching type. 100-240VAC and 50/60 Cycles. It most likely is still trying to output the 12VDC even with the dimmers modified AC. Even at 100% On there is some modification of the AC into it. I would change the 2477D to a 2477S switch type feeding the outlet. Seems to work with a 2477D is not safe. The 2474D is a two wire switch. Steals power through the load. Made for incandescent loads only. If you have a wall wart being controlled by it.The current needed to run the 2474D through the load. Will cause it to turn the wall wart back ON even if it is Off. By the current running the 2474D.

Minus C13 is soldered to the ground layer in the PCB. If there was a top run from minus C13 to one side of C14. It should be providing the ground end of C14 with the top run. Make sure the jumper is not to the plus side of C13. As C13 and C14 are in parallel on the unregulated 12 volts. Normally 18-19 volts. Jumping minus C13 to the end of C14 top run with a wire. It should be fine. You can use the square pad on the connector mentioned earlier. As the common ground for the possible missing minus connections and a good place to use your meter to verify the minus connections. There was a reversed engineering schematic of the power supply in one of the messages. Of page #12 of this thread.

The 2413 main board is a multi-layered PCB. With a ground plane in the center layer of the PCB. It can absorb heat from a soldering iron. Making some of the capacitor minus connections dificult to remove. I pulled one of my plated through holes myself and had to use some fine insulated wire jumpers. Depending on your soldering skills. You can jump the C8 and C7 minus connections to the C13 minus connection. Or you can use Pin #1 of the RF ICP programming connector. It is the pin with the square silk screening around it and marked RF ICP. It is the 5 position set of pads near C7 and C8. Near the edge on the PCB.

Your EZFlora is new enough to be on the base dual band 2413 main board and not on the earlier power line only 2412 main board? I will see if I can find out some information for you. Minus side of C7 and C8.

I am not sure how they get the Wattage. I know there is a current shunt on the board. In the Neutral output to the outlet.

Thanks for the update. Glad you are now not seeing rouge X10 messages.

If the other wires in the conduit. Are AC power. It maybe possible to get AC noise into the serial signals. Keep us in the loop.

My ISY99i and ISY994i both came with two three foot network cables. My original ISY-26 came with a one meter network cable and a 9 pin 'D' connector style serial cable

Yes standard Network Cable. Page seven of the full users manual. Two Standard Category 5e Ethernet patch cables https://www.universal-devices.com/docs/production/ISY User Guide 4.2.8.pdf One thing to watch. The signals are Serial not the standard Network signals. From what I have seen here. Most have used up to twenty five feet. Some longer with a high quality cable.

I agree . Since the UDI ISY994i is not there product. The manual only gives the manual Set Button sequences. For Linking, Unlinking and options settings. We see users here and on their Forums trying to use an ISY994i with manual Set Button links in them. With strange happenings. Common reply is with an ISY994i. Ignore what is in the modules full users manuals. Factory Reset use the ISY994i to do everything.

In the manuals. It maybe called the Communications Test or Beacon Test. Some modules manuals have you follow a Flow Chart of Set Button sequences and LED color and flashing sequences. Others the quick four tap set button routine.

Yes +5 to I3 and I4. You should be able to connect I3 and I 4 to ground . Either way should keep the I3 and I4 from floating and picking up random electrical noise. Triggering them randomly On and Off.

It could be power line noise from an electrical device. Grow lights maybe the culprit or the heating pad. They can make power line noise. If the noise is there when an Insteon command is being sent. It maybe possible it will interfere with it or delay it. As I believe Insteon Modules are polite and wait for a clear power line. I see a few messages in your log. House Code J and Status Request messages are both all 1 bits. You may want to do some troubleshooting. Jeff's tutorials are for X10 but some of them can be applied to other things. Look at the one on the cheap cellphone charger. Practically wiped out all X10 signals and Insteon is not too far away. http://jvde.us/x10_troubleshooting.htm You may want to try a FilterLinc on a few of the devices you think maybe causing the issue. If the current isn't too close to five amps. The X10Pro XPPF.

I had something similar. With my DSL Interface. After a power cycle it did not come back to life. It was the power supply. It was still able to weakly power the interface while operating but the extra current it took to do a self test. Caused all the LEDs on it to flash On and Off and never initialize.

Are you using the Opto-Isolated I1-I2 Inputs or the I3-I4 Digital Inputs ? You mentioned in your other thread I1 & I2. If the I3 and I4 Digital Inputs are not connected to anything. On the chance noise is getting into the Digital Inputs. You may want to put a pull up resistor from I3 to 5 volts and I4 to 5 volts. 10,000 Ohms should be fine or try I3 and I4 tied back to ground. I believe under the old name. Simplehomenet they said ground to keep out electrical noise triggering the digital inputs.

If a different load also stays full On and the wiring is double checked. It could be a defective module. Where the output is stuck On even though the modules LEDs indicate it is dimming or going off.

Unless you changed it. The Query All Program runs at 3:00 AM. Maybe that has something to do with it. You could change the run time and see if the Reboots happen at the new run time. Hope someone has seen this and can provide more information.

I had another thought. If the failing modules where all in the same general area. Some inductive devices like a motor. Can generate a inductive voltage spike. When turned off. Can be fairly high in voltage and a very short time length. Maybe even too fast for your voltage tester to even see. I know the X10 modules have a MOV on the AC input. I can't say if the Insteon module has any AC spike protection. So it could be possible the spike is eventually damaging it.