Geddy

Lots of online options...pick your poison! Gmail Outlook iCloud Mail Yahoo! Mail GMX ProtonMail Zoho Mail Of course...a little more setup work is involved in setting up to use an outside email server, but it does offer some protections to your process by being somewhat a little more reliable than an open server (as @Michel Kohanim points out they've had lots of holes to fill to try to block spammers/hackers). It ultimately comes down to what the user wants/needs from the device as far as notifications. In a time where it seems that phones never stop making noise my home automation system is the least of my desires to have notifications from. One thing to watch out for...if you are one of these that sends lots of notifications some of these free services do limit daily mail send counts. So you might need to try a couple of them to find a good fit.

I think an important part might be missing here... @aguden said in the second post - I'd have to ask how far away is the garage and barn from the closest switch that is on that direction? How is the power run to those facilities? Is your main panel in the house and subs in the house servicing the garage and barn? It could be that your ISY is in the main house and there's no direct powerline getting out to the detached buildings. That's where you have to figure out if you're close enough for the wireless signals to reach, and my experience is the signals fall rapidly having to go through walls. I'm no electrician, but just wanted to be sure others weren't trying to fix a problem that couldn't be fixed if the power going to the other buildings isn't talking with the main house like you're implying. With it being intermittent issues it seems to me that it's just out of reach to be reliable. Or...of course the noise issues, but again...probably because of distance.

@SESamuels and @mfswear - typical question is what's your firmware and what's the UI for admin console? They should match! v4.x or v5.x Step 1 - make sure Java is up to date on your system Step 2 - make sure you've cleared java cache - https://www.java.com/en/download/help/plugin_cache.html Step 3 - re-install the ISY Launcher mentioned in this post: Once properly launched the admin console you should have full access to do what others have mentioned about deleting devices or removing from folders. It sounds like neither of you properly installed the launcher or Java has updated and corrupted your launcher and you just need a fresh install to get full use of admin console back on your computers. If you're using Windows it is common to have issues when Java updates (not always, but been known to happen). If using MacOS then it's still probably a java issue, but I don't use MACs so cannot really help troubleshoot further than what the links above might do to help get you looking in the right areas to move forward. Good luck! Post back if you've still got issue. Screen shots of what you're seeing always help people troubleshoot the situation as it helps clarify what you're trying to describe in text. Step 4 - if all else fails head over to https://www.universal-devices.com/ and open a ticket here - https://www.universal-devices.com/my-tickets. They've got great support to help with issues that can't be worked out on here or might need a little more assistance to get running right.

@Ponnath.info, or you could create a separate program for the done in the "then" section and nothing in the "if" and have the last line of your existing program run the "then" of the "done program" and have a wait command in there just to be sure it's really run all commands. Adding another wait before triggering the other program would also help given the previous commands time to complete. Usually everything will run in order of the "then" statement, so making sure the "done" is the last line of "then" should get you what you want, but if there are any communication issues some commands might still be running when the ISY reaches the end of the program. If still having issues copy and paste the program here and I'm sure you'll get some help. Welcome to the forums!

@GTCJ, Something could have changed with the default mail server when they had issues recently. Maybe open a ticket with UDI to see if they can help make sure things are properly sorted out with your process and their default mail server. If just sending 1 email why not use g-mail for sending?

Correct. The IP of the ISY is what you're port forwarding to. You're not trying to access the computer, but the ISY itself. What are you using to access the ISY while remote that you need the port forwarding for? And if you have ISY Portal then you don't just need to use it only for Alexa, but it's also able to be used for remote access to not have to port forward. The main reason is if your home IP changes and you aren't using a DDNS service then you would need to know your external facing IP number. If you use the my.isy.io remote access then you don't need port forwarding and you can just use the ISY Portal login information to access your ISY remotely. On the ISY Portal look at "Select Tool" -> Information -> ISY Information -> Admin Console URL Use the Admin Console URL for your access while you're remote. Then use the ISY Portal user/pass to gain access to admin console while away from the home.

What brand and model router do you have? First, and foremost, make sure you can talk to the admin console internally with the new router. Sometimes the ISY might have been setup with static IP address, but the new router has a new DHCP table (some routers use 192.168.0.1 while others might be 192.168.1.1 - or other internal IP table). If your ISY was setup with static IP it might not connect to the new router correctly so be sure to change the ISY to dynamic IP to connect to the new router then you can take the steps to change it to static if you proceed with the port forwarding on the new router. Then watch this for some steps - it's old, but should still be mostly valid - https://youtu.be/VV7u771uX7E Also reference some info here: https://wiki.universal-devices.com/index.php Finally, check out the ISY Cookbook (http://www.universal-devices.com/docs/production/The+ISY994+Home+Automation+Cookbook.pdf) to read about it there too. I might suggest you NOT port forward if you have ISY Portal license. It is a little more secure to use the my.isy.io login as you aren't opening holes in your home router. The likely hood of hacking is low (as long as you have strong passwords), but why open holes in the router if other options are available. But the easiest way to get help is letting us know what brand router you bought and we can help directly for that.

On the admin console make sure your location and time zone is still correct. It sounds as though your time zone or location might have somehow reset. When you first log in at the top you should see when it thinks sunrise and sunset are. If they're showing the 1pm time then your location in configuration might have changed.

Working just fine for me. Haven't had (many) errors since setting this up about 3 years ago. The only time I had a problem was self induced when checking the settings to help setup another ISY device. Fixed that right away and didn't have long term problems. I have Gmail sending the alerts going to Outlook.com and haven't seen a problem. I only have about 5 notifications a day so it's not being overly abused by sending automatic messages. Perhaps a higher count of auto generated emails would begin to trigger spam/abuse from the host (Gmail) or the receiver (Outlook.com for me). I always wanted to avoid sending from/to Gmail for just that reason. I know at one point they were blocking auto generated and identical messages if they happened too often in an hour or day period so I have always sent them to a non-Gmail account so it wouldn't be so risky. I'm using 4.8, but I wouldn't expect that 5.x would handle email setup much different.

Excellent "PRO" tip there! Our fans are also 10 FT + in the ceiling. Having had to already replace 1 (of 3) and hoping not to have to replace others we have considered options and dropping a box in an out of the way place seems best bet. Not so easy in the living room, but we'll see if we ever have to make a change. As with @asbril we have to change our speed often (Georgia summers (and sometimes winter) are brutal with humidity). Going from middle of the road remote fans to fanlinc controlled high quality fans has made a huge improvement in comfort for us. Having whole home surge protection will hopefully help some, but if happens after power outages that's a different story with our storms (year round). @dbwarner5 great tip on relocating the fanlinc to a serviceable location!

@palayman - check into these - https://www.mightymule.com/automatic-gate-openers/ We use this on a gate access for our office parking lot. Our system is simple and not internet based. It has a keypad that is RF to the opener so multiple codes can be put in. They have remotes available for the system. It isn't the most secure, but it gets you started on a brand. They used to be part of GTO (http://gtoaccess.net/gto-gate-opener-manuals.htm), but the site looks different know. I will say we have had the gate installed about 15 years and only had limited problems (2 arm motor replacements). It's used multiple times a day. Might not work for your system, but it's something. I do not know if it has what you're looking for in the way of logs as we do not need that and have not considered it as an option. If you're looking for more sophisticated and with cell service perhaps this is something to check out: https://www.doorking.com/consumers/gated-communities Lots of options in this area. Good luck finding something that works for you.

ISY Portal licence is (currently) 2 years for $20 (so $10/year). That's not bad considering what it allows you to manage. As it's been said...well worth it to help maintain current connectivity and possibly benefit future development.

Odd...not at home so can't test my own Alexa for commands, but know I haven't had any issues when attempted over the last few days. Perhaps it is an intermittent issue with the Alexa and ISY app. Maybe @bmercier can chime in to see if there's something going on. He seems to be a solid link between ISY/Alexa operations.

Have you actually added the device via the ISY Portal? ISY portal -> Select Tool -> Connectivity -> Amazon Echo -> Device (along the top) Once added in ISY Portal you have to tell Alexa to Discover devices (say, "*wake word*, discover devices"). Once discovered things should work. To check if there is anything there currently goto https://alexa.amazon.com and click on "Smart Home" along the left side. That should show you what devices Alexa knows. NOTE: If you add spoken in the ISY Portal make sure they are unique and different sounding as sometimes Alexa cannot understand multiple word items and just gets confused. Hope that helps!

Are you sure about it NOT being triggered again? I've got a program that runs a fan and I can't get it to stay off if I manually turn it off. I'm on 4.7.3 so maybe this "between" is a 5.x wording/process. --------- Bonus-Fan If From Sunrise + 1 hour To Sunset + 4 hours (same day) And Module 'Climate' Temperature > 75 °F Then Set 'Bonus Fan' On Else Set 'Bonus Fan' Off --------- I needed the fan off to move things around and it kept turning on. I had to disable the program for it to stay off. Perhaps my line with the temp was causing it to trigger, but I only want the fan on when it's warm outside.

Bummer. Was going to snag these on sale. Guess I should find the lights first and get something that would work. We keep going back and forth over being able to operate individually or all or nothing. Thanks for checking. Sent from my Phone using Tapatalk

Does the 2475DA1 (Insteon Remote Control In-Line Dimmer Switch) run LED Recessed lights like this - https://www.lowes.com/pd/Juno-White-LED-Remodel-And-New-Construction-Recessed-Light-Kit-Fits-Opening-6-in/1000330977 The description on the Insteon page says: This dimmer controls incandescent bulbs. If you need to control a fluorescent light fixture or an appliance, try the In-LineLinc Relay I've recently had several lights replaced with units like this (not sure the exact brand) and are working fine with the usual on/off and dimmer switches. But looking at putting in a few in the kitchen and wanted to control them independently (at times). and wanted to see if these in-line dimmers would work for LED "cans"/puck lights like this.

Why are you replying to an admin post from last year (2018)? I would say your problem isn't really related to this post. Should have started a new thread. But, to help, I'd say you probably have multiple verbals that might be too close in sound that Alexa is picking up that that might be two devices in your system. Ways to check: On a computer go here: https://alexa.amazon.com/ Left side of screen click on "Smart Home" -> Devices - this lists all devices seen/known to Alexa. If you find there are multiple names you need to go to the ISY Portal and correct. Don't just delete/forget them on the Alexa site/page as they'll come back if you ever run discover devices again. Perhaps easiest fix is to just remove the device "Office Lights" from the ISY Portal, be sure to sync/refresh (the little circle icon at the top of the device list in the ISY Portal page). You might go back to the Alexa tab and refresh that list to see if it removed "Office Lights", if not then hit "Forget" on the right side of the device list. Then add the device back. I've found that if I have a device that I later assign a verbal name to that is too similar sounding sometimes Alexa cannot tell the two apart and gives up. Good luck.

@Michel Kohanim - No errors for me (I'm using the launcher). The OP is saying if they go to the URL in a web browser they get an error. I'm saying that I've never attempted to access Admin Console via web browser, but if attempted I do get the same error they do. "This XML file does not appear to have any style information associated with it. The document tree is shown below. <root xmlns="urn:schemas-upnp-org:device-1-0"> <specVersion> <major>1</major> <minor>0</minor> </specVersion>" But, I'm not sure that's supposed to be possible. I use the portal address in the finder to launch to Admin Console so I don't have to handle port forwarding. In the past I was using DDNS, but looks like DDNS is broken or slow with TP-Link (my brand/model of router) so I just use the ISY Portal URL to admin console for launcher (as well as mobilink direct connect). All good for me. Was tying to help op by saying the URL should be used in the launcher/finder to load Admin Console.

Can you use the ISY finder to launch Admin Console and log in remotely that way? Why try to use a web? I've never done that so can't help if it had worked that way, but I use the ISY finder then use the URL and log in with the portal login information. Otherwise, you need to use port forwarding and can then remote in directly to the home network and use the ISY login. Finder: I get the same error that you get when you try to access the URL using the ISY Portal address so I'm thinking that it isn't currently possible. Not sure if it ever was because I never tried that way. I've always used the ISY Finder/Launcher.

I've used Viatalk for years (over 11) and they have a "do not disturb" function that you can turn on and have calls authenticate before they ring through (type in 3 or 4 numbers). You can then "white list" people so they aren't bothered by it. So we leave DND on and let family, friends, and some key companies on the white list so we get their calls (plus, they know our cell numbers and call/text there). Not bad for ~ $8/mo.

I've always liked to buy my own modem and routers just for the fact that I save the rental. Unless you're getting a new device from your ISP every few months or year then you've paid more in rent than you would have paid if you just bought your own devices. The ISP always tries to say "if it goes bad it's your cost to replace". Well, when I buy stuff it lasts several years. Over that time I would have paid 2 or 3 times the cost of the devices I bought in rent and. They have enough control over the data I consume over their network that I don't want them to be able to directly control the hardware I have. Over the last few years the Comcast service has had their Comcast/Xfinity open wifi for other customers piggy back on their hardware. If I'm paying you for the service I don't want you to give away any of my broadband to others. Lower my rate if you're going to also run a wifi on my connection, but no...they don't think that way. So, I say buy your own stuff and replace as needed and desired as technology changes. Good luck if you go with your own equipment. It could still be some sort of port/protocol filtering by the ISP that isn't allowing some notifications. It just depends on if you're sending multiple notifications or identical notifications on a set schedule.

If you're using ISP supplied equipment are you using a modem/router combo? If so you'll need to replace with your own modem and router or hope they'll let you put their router portion in bridge mode so you can run your own router behind their modem. I've used the Asus RT-AC68U https://www.asus.com/us/Networking/RTAC68U/ in the past. It was great, and lasted me about 6 years. I think heat finally took its toll and was starting to flake out so I replaced it this past spring. I currently use the TP-Link DECO 9M+ (mesh) and love it! I had several dead zones in the house with other routers and wanted to try Mesh. Costco had a deal on the Deco product and I've loved it. The only issue I would say is that there's not a true web UI, but the phone app seems ample enough to setup what I want/need. (https://www.costco.com/tp-link-deco-m9-plus-tri-band-wi-fi-system-with-built-in-smart-hub%2C-3-pack.product.100477095.html) You said you used other DNS lookups which ones did you try? Did you use the Google public DNS servers? The router you mentioned appears to be a business plan router. Are you on Business plan with Spectrum? I wonder if the business service tends to block the emails more than a residential service would. I would think that Business would be more open, but perhaps there's something in the service that they're blocking some sending. Modem suggestion: Arris SB8200 (https://www.arris.com/surfboard/products/cable-modems/sb8200/) Router will depend on what you need beyond the ISY side of things. If you need sped look at the higher end gaming routers, if you need coverage look at mesh options, if you just need simple ASUS and TP-Link are good options compared to what most would push in Netgear, D-Link, and Linksys.

Holy crap! 148 devices? Okay...here's something to point out, and something I ran up against with my in-laws moving to rural Atlanta area...some ISP supplied modem/router will limit the quantity of connected devices. Sure, you can get in and update that, but sometimes you've got to get the provider to help lift the limit. It could really become an issue for people adding wifi plugs, switches, and bulbs if they're limited to DHCP connected devices. Yes, most of us here will say "buy your own router", and we are probably technically proficient enough to do that with little thought. But, some that want some simple remote control for devices while on the other side of the house or other side of town the customer will go the easy route and just buy a wifi plug that says "no hub needed" and "works with Amazon/Google". Only to eventually have an issue with number of connected devices and then risk having kids or grandkids crying when the wifi doesn't work. (believe me...1st hand experience!) Interesting topic and discussion for potential options, but as most have said existing equipment will continue to work so if we're invested in this equipment let's keep going with the way we've been going. Let's hope that if there are issues for the company that provides these devices that either another company picks up the product line and continues to run the production lines and able to provide the community these options. The future is unknown. Why spend time worrying about it if you're already invested in this ecosystem? If it works...use it. If it works for what you want it to do then enjoy the satisfaction of the joy it brings you. I'm more worried about these fly by night outfits that are supplying low cost wifi only devices. And while I'm not smart enough to really concern myself with the potential security flaw with these devices I'm more worried about durability. I've had a wifi LED lightbulb for almost 3 years that failed last month. What sucks is it was a $30 bulb at the time, and now the company isn't producing bulbs. So now if I want another in that lamp I have to buy a different brand, have a different app on my phones/tablets. Instead I'll just buy another Insteon outlet to be able to include that lamp in the ISY now. I think the real question should be - do you want a single supplier for home "automation" or do you want a bunch of random apps for each time you buy wifi only switches, plugs, or bulbs and then you have to remember which app to turn on the lamp next to your bed. Home Automation is a process, not simply just being able to turn things on/off.

Just a random observance...is the checkbox for "use default" checked. I noticed if that is checked you can't edit the address information. But if you've previously edited it then it should be available to edit again. Perhaps something triggered the checkbox to be marked and isn't allowing you to enter your own information.