Geddy

Might be time to open a support ticket with UDI to see if they can help get you working again. support@universal-devices.com or here: https://www.universal-devices.com/my-tickets If might be something you just need to factory reset and start over to get access to admin console again then restore a backup. It's starting to sound like you might have something messed up through the processes you went through of trying to replace PLM then upgraded firmware then replacing devices. So many things changed and not sure if the PLM was malfunctioning when you were doing the firmware upgrade (4.7.3 -> 4.8.0) that the ISY update might have not settled completely/accurately.

@slimypizza was the Cree a dimmable bulb (I know you said it was, but perhaps it isn't)? Sometimes I think the dimming devices don't act right if the bulb isn't really a dimmable bulb. I use many Cree dimmable bulbs without issue in 2472DIV outlets. I'm not sure about the lamp module. Could just be a bad bulb.

@MrBill doesn't the launcher work with 5.3.1? Why would we need to get the specific one for 5.3.1? I haven't ventured into 5.x upgrade yet, but have had this lingering question. Since launcher is supposed to be UI/FW auto-match why wouldn't that just work in the upgrade process? Just to be sure it's really needed rather than just relying on the ISY Launcher version.

@smarthome_newbie if it's the ISY power light that isn't on then you probably have a faulty power supply or SD card has gone bad. Power supply options: You can try any power supply that outputs anywhere between 5 volt and 30 volts,center positive, 2mm barrel connector Help with replacing SD card: https://wiki.universal-devices.com/index.php?title=ISY-99i/ISY-26_INSTEON:Replacing/Formatting_an_SD_Card What happens when you plug it in? Boot up sequence: Power, RX&TX, momentary blink of Memory/RX and TX, and then Power only For power supplies check if you have any old router plugs or cordless phone plugs laying around. Just see if you happen to have anything in the house currently to test with first. If that solves your problem and you need the plug elsewhere then look at ordering one or buying one locally. Good luck!

@jmfa Neat. Glad that worked out. Wasn't sure about the node side of things as I haven't started using those yet. Final note - I've found it's usually quicker to check what Alexa/Echo sees for spoken option on the website rather than the isy portal or Alexa app. Check it out here: https://alexa.amazon.com/ Smart Home -> Devices It's also quicker to delete them here and then have Alexa re-discover devices.

@jmfa If you wanted everything controlled through the ISY you should disable the brand specific skills and then only have the ISY smart home skill enabled and manage the spoken through the ISY Portal link. Based on what you're saying it suggests that you have Echo KASA and Wemo skills enabled and account linked for those specific devices. If you unlink and disable the brand specific skills you could then rely on the ISY Portal spoken names. Just be sure those devices are actually added to Echo through the ISY Skill. There's a little more setup by using the ISY, but if you're wanting ISY Skill to manage the spoken this would work. You would still be able to use the brand specific apps on mobile devices. This suggestion only impacts the skills used on the Echo devices.

@narciro not sure if I can help since I don't use motion sensors, but perhaps you've got too much interference/traffic by trying to control so many devices at one time. Is the "routine" within the ISY as a program? If in a program maybe a "wait" parameter of just a second or two would help allow the traffic to properly reach the switches you're trying to control. And now you've created a scene to try to help, have you tested with different controllers to see if the scene acts properly if a switch is activating it? Perhaps copy/paste the text of the program here for others to help out. Right click on the program and select "copy to clipboard" then come here and paste that. Good luck!

@berko Sorry that your setup isn't working with the hotspot. It might be that it's not an always on connection so trying to send messages while the connection isn't on/strong could be an issue. Or AT&T is blocking some SMTP relay ports. Did you take a minute to read @MrBill linked thread above? You should specifically read this post: It specifically says if you want/need to use the alternative email you need to contact support @ universal-devices . com (remove the spaces) to get setup security credentials. Good luck getting notifications working again. Take a moment to help yourself by reading what others have attempted. Damn spammers ruin nice things for many of us. Sign of the times.

And here's the wiki on how to telnet to ISY https://wiki.universal-devices.com/index.php?title=ISY-99i/ISY-26_INSTEON:Telnet_To_Your_ISY It looks a little different in Win 10 (at least when I just tried it). I hadn't ever done it so wanted to look up the steps. First part is the same (have to enable it/turn it on in Win10), but then when run I just had to "open #.#.#.# (isy ip address)" and it connected. The port wasn't needed. (added only because not everybody knows how to do this (I hadn't attempted before) so added link to wiki for ease of reference.

I'm not sure how the emails are setup for the Tags, but are you trying to send emails from your own address to a Gmail address or using the Google Gmail SMTP? If trying to use Gmail SMTP make sure you're not using Port 25 (often default port for SMTP) as it appears to be blocked by Cox (and most other ISPs). It's that it wasn't a secure enough port option for people sending emails from ISPs and resulted in a lot of spam. The new(er) port would be 587. There's also a suggestion to use port 2525.

Lots of online options...pick your poison! Gmail Outlook iCloud Mail Yahoo! Mail GMX ProtonMail Zoho Mail Of course...a little more setup work is involved in setting up to use an outside email server, but it does offer some protections to your process by being somewhat a little more reliable than an open server (as @Michel Kohanim points out they've had lots of holes to fill to try to block spammers/hackers). It ultimately comes down to what the user wants/needs from the device as far as notifications. In a time where it seems that phones never stop making noise my home automation system is the least of my desires to have notifications from. One thing to watch out for...if you are one of these that sends lots of notifications some of these free services do limit daily mail send counts. So you might need to try a couple of them to find a good fit.

@SESamuels and @mfswear - typical question is what's your firmware and what's the UI for admin console? They should match! v4.x or v5.x Step 1 - make sure Java is up to date on your system Step 2 - make sure you've cleared java cache - https://www.java.com/en/download/help/plugin_cache.html Step 3 - re-install the ISY Launcher mentioned in this post: Once properly launched the admin console you should have full access to do what others have mentioned about deleting devices or removing from folders. It sounds like neither of you properly installed the launcher or Java has updated and corrupted your launcher and you just need a fresh install to get full use of admin console back on your computers. If you're using Windows it is common to have issues when Java updates (not always, but been known to happen). If using MacOS then it's still probably a java issue, but I don't use MACs so cannot really help troubleshoot further than what the links above might do to help get you looking in the right areas to move forward. Good luck! Post back if you've still got issue. Screen shots of what you're seeing always help people troubleshoot the situation as it helps clarify what you're trying to describe in text. Step 4 - if all else fails head over to https://www.universal-devices.com/ and open a ticket here - https://www.universal-devices.com/my-tickets. They've got great support to help with issues that can't be worked out on here or might need a little more assistance to get running right.

@Ponnath.info, or you could create a separate program for the done in the "then" section and nothing in the "if" and have the last line of your existing program run the "then" of the "done program" and have a wait command in there just to be sure it's really run all commands. Adding another wait before triggering the other program would also help given the previous commands time to complete. Usually everything will run in order of the "then" statement, so making sure the "done" is the last line of "then" should get you what you want, but if there are any communication issues some commands might still be running when the ISY reaches the end of the program. If still having issues copy and paste the program here and I'm sure you'll get some help. Welcome to the forums!

@GTCJ, Something could have changed with the default mail server when they had issues recently. Maybe open a ticket with UDI to see if they can help make sure things are properly sorted out with your process and their default mail server. If just sending 1 email why not use g-mail for sending?

Correct. The IP of the ISY is what you're port forwarding to. You're not trying to access the computer, but the ISY itself. What are you using to access the ISY while remote that you need the port forwarding for? And if you have ISY Portal then you don't just need to use it only for Alexa, but it's also able to be used for remote access to not have to port forward. The main reason is if your home IP changes and you aren't using a DDNS service then you would need to know your external facing IP number. If you use the my.isy.io remote access then you don't need port forwarding and you can just use the ISY Portal login information to access your ISY remotely. On the ISY Portal look at "Select Tool" -> Information -> ISY Information -> Admin Console URL Use the Admin Console URL for your access while you're remote. Then use the ISY Portal user/pass to gain access to admin console while away from the home.

What brand and model router do you have? First, and foremost, make sure you can talk to the admin console internally with the new router. Sometimes the ISY might have been setup with static IP address, but the new router has a new DHCP table (some routers use 192.168.0.1 while others might be 192.168.1.1 - or other internal IP table). If your ISY was setup with static IP it might not connect to the new router correctly so be sure to change the ISY to dynamic IP to connect to the new router then you can take the steps to change it to static if you proceed with the port forwarding on the new router. Then watch this for some steps - it's old, but should still be mostly valid - https://youtu.be/VV7u771uX7E Also reference some info here: https://wiki.universal-devices.com/index.php Finally, check out the ISY Cookbook (http://www.universal-devices.com/docs/production/The+ISY994+Home+Automation+Cookbook.pdf) to read about it there too. I might suggest you NOT port forward if you have ISY Portal license. It is a little more secure to use the my.isy.io login as you aren't opening holes in your home router. The likely hood of hacking is low (as long as you have strong passwords), but why open holes in the router if other options are available. But the easiest way to get help is letting us know what brand router you bought and we can help directly for that.

On the admin console make sure your location and time zone is still correct. It sounds as though your time zone or location might have somehow reset. When you first log in at the top you should see when it thinks sunrise and sunset are. If they're showing the 1pm time then your location in configuration might have changed.

Working just fine for me. Haven't had (many) errors since setting this up about 3 years ago. The only time I had a problem was self induced when checking the settings to help setup another ISY device. Fixed that right away and didn't have long term problems. I have Gmail sending the alerts going to Outlook.com and haven't seen a problem. I only have about 5 notifications a day so it's not being overly abused by sending automatic messages. Perhaps a higher count of auto generated emails would begin to trigger spam/abuse from the host (Gmail) or the receiver (Outlook.com for me). I always wanted to avoid sending from/to Gmail for just that reason. I know at one point they were blocking auto generated and identical messages if they happened too often in an hour or day period so I have always sent them to a non-Gmail account so it wouldn't be so risky. I'm using 4.8, but I wouldn't expect that 5.x would handle email setup much different.

Excellent "PRO" tip there! Our fans are also 10 FT + in the ceiling. Having had to already replace 1 (of 3) and hoping not to have to replace others we have considered options and dropping a box in an out of the way place seems best bet. Not so easy in the living room, but we'll see if we ever have to make a change. As with @asbril we have to change our speed often (Georgia summers (and sometimes winter) are brutal with humidity). Going from middle of the road remote fans to fanlinc controlled high quality fans has made a huge improvement in comfort for us. Having whole home surge protection will hopefully help some, but if happens after power outages that's a different story with our storms (year round). @dbwarner5 great tip on relocating the fanlinc to a serviceable location!

ISY Portal licence is (currently) 2 years for $20 (so $10/year). That's not bad considering what it allows you to manage. As it's been said...well worth it to help maintain current connectivity and possibly benefit future development.

Odd...not at home so can't test my own Alexa for commands, but know I haven't had any issues when attempted over the last few days. Perhaps it is an intermittent issue with the Alexa and ISY app. Maybe @bmercier can chime in to see if there's something going on. He seems to be a solid link between ISY/Alexa operations.

Have you actually added the device via the ISY Portal? ISY portal -> Select Tool -> Connectivity -> Amazon Echo -> Device (along the top) Once added in ISY Portal you have to tell Alexa to Discover devices (say, "*wake word*, discover devices"). Once discovered things should work. To check if there is anything there currently goto https://alexa.amazon.com and click on "Smart Home" along the left side. That should show you what devices Alexa knows. NOTE: If you add spoken in the ISY Portal make sure they are unique and different sounding as sometimes Alexa cannot understand multiple word items and just gets confused. Hope that helps!

Are you sure about it NOT being triggered again? I've got a program that runs a fan and I can't get it to stay off if I manually turn it off. I'm on 4.7.3 so maybe this "between" is a 5.x wording/process. --------- Bonus-Fan If From Sunrise + 1 hour To Sunset + 4 hours (same day) And Module 'Climate' Temperature > 75 °F Then Set 'Bonus Fan' On Else Set 'Bonus Fan' Off --------- I needed the fan off to move things around and it kept turning on. I had to disable the program for it to stay off. Perhaps my line with the temp was causing it to trigger, but I only want the fan on when it's warm outside.

Bummer. Was going to snag these on sale. Guess I should find the lights first and get something that would work. We keep going back and forth over being able to operate individually or all or nothing. Thanks for checking. Sent from my Phone using Tapatalk

Does the 2475DA1 (Insteon Remote Control In-Line Dimmer Switch) run LED Recessed lights like this - https://www.lowes.com/pd/Juno-White-LED-Remodel-And-New-Construction-Recessed-Light-Kit-Fits-Opening-6-in/1000330977 The description on the Insteon page says: This dimmer controls incandescent bulbs. If you need to control a fluorescent light fixture or an appliance, try the In-LineLinc Relay I've recently had several lights replaced with units like this (not sure the exact brand) and are working fine with the usual on/off and dimmer switches. But looking at putting in a few in the kitchen and wanted to control them independently (at times). and wanted to see if these in-line dimmers would work for LED "cans"/puck lights like this.