Teken

Please note that Google has changed one key thing in their system. Meaning in the field where you indicate the *FROM* this must have the email address you're going to use. In the past this FROM field simply used what ever (friendly name) you wanted which could be like My System etc. Now you will enter for example My System: Johns@gmail.com Failure to enter the domain will result in no mail being received by your Gmail account.

Personally I would use a dedicated Gmail account to avoid the random failures sometimes seen by using the default UDI mail server.

Assuming you have good RF coupling from any dual band device. Take the Remote Linc as far away from the 2413s PLM and try again as this issue has been well documented.

The lamp linc is NOT like a Insteon On-Off Relay module because the ladder has a relay which can handle large restive / reactive loads. Whereas the former is designed to dim a purpose built light fixture which uses a incandescent load. A lamp linc dimmer even when full on does not provide 100% power when comparing the two hardware devices. Because the On-Off Relay module uses a purpose built relay this is why it can be used on motors, etc. Do not attempt to plug in a device like a hair dryer, fan, heater, etc to this device because (regardless of power handling) doing so will damage the appliance never mind the actual lamp linc module.

I have looked over the last few months and to date I have not been able to find the video for EVIL Petes demo. Perhaps he can chime in when DEFCON will make that video available for the general public to view.

http://wiki.universal-devices.com/index.php?title=Main_Page#Migration

When I first moved into our brand new home one of the first appliances we bought was a dehumidifier for the basement. Our POCO at that time (she) edumecated Mr. Teken that our first year and a half worth of heating / cooling would be double to triple due to the extreme humidity being generated by the curing basement foundation walls. Armed with those facts it required double to triple the energy to heat up moist damp air that exceeded 75% humidity. It really was a no brainier to run that brand new dehumidifier 24.7 for those 3-4 months until winter came upon us. By the time winter came to our local area with the combination of a dry cold season our basement was hovering around 55-60% relative humidity. Upstairs it was a very nice and comfortable 45-50% relative humidity. Almost 7 years later the home has been able to sustain that same value by basic active / passive heating, cooling, and proper use of air circulation via HA elements and venting control. This year my goal is to keep the basement around 45-50% like the upstairs as I am trying to see if it will help me reduce the amount of telepost adjustment which impacts the two entrance doors leading to the home. [emoji53] Ideals are peaceful - History is violent

Larry, That is an excellent example of going to far and what the negative outcomes will be. I believe in another related thread with Paul Bates I indicated how I *cheat* a little in the winter to fool the (human) into thinking its warmer than it is by keeping the humidity slightly higher during the long 7 month, cold, dry winters here. Thus far going on seven years in this custom home has been fantastic while balancing my energy consumption and the human factor. With respect to things moving around and shifting for me this past (2014) winter proved even with 50 plus piles driven 100 feet into the ground building on silt, clay, mud is a never ending battle with Mother Nature. Adjusting supporting teleposts are a seasonal thing for me moving forward due to heaving and frost that exceeds the 12 foot frost line.

As Stu illustrated there is a work around but it would not be a smooth transition. I am unsure if this would be a big issue so long as the lights started to dim in a step fashion which is ultimately what the OP wanted anyways. I just took what the OP had asked at face value and literally and did not consider using other methods to extend the time frame. Stu's suggestion is a great work around for this and to me would fit the OP's needs.

Not to take this thread too far into a tangent but I tend to agree with the above as well. Given all of the hoopla of Apple Home Kit, and various other HA protocols the home automation industry continues to be a very small market place. There are lots of examples from Control 4 / Creston, to installation we all can relate to which use Insteon, Z-Wave, ZigBee, X-10, UPB, etc. Many people that I have seen basically fall into two basic categories once they have tasted the HA tech. The first buy a small starter kit and pretty much don't move past this and essentially the novelty is lost on them. Next are those that see value in incorporating the next level of HA into their lives not only to make it fun but useful. Afterwards there are those like us that see greater potential not only to make our lives better but to help manage energy consumption, efficiency, and long term cost(s). At this point its very much a integrated lifestyle with the various HA systems in the home. Having the ability to harness basic elements of the home that add safety, security, and over all status awareness is simply outstanding for me and for millions of others. Having said all of this over the years I have moved to a more conservative view and approach about HA and what role it plays in my home and lifestyle. With the advent of every increasing threats of hackers, and Government spying in all aspects of a persons lives with out their knowledge. I have purposely removed key systems from being controlled by HA elements. Even though I still monitor them they have no direct method to impose their will onto another sub system. With so many companies now being acquired by massive companies like Apple, Samsung, Google, etc. Letting corporations monetize and profit from knowing your habits along with status of occupancy. Never mind having the direct ability to over ride a persons TSTAT or any other connected cloud hosted service is simply not worth the privileged of remote access and integration with HA. You can mark my words the very first time we see a You Tube video of a drop cam, nest tstat, smoke, unit all indicate the movement, travels, and occupancy of a home owner. You will see the HA industry implode onto itself . . . The reality is TSTAT's have been in use for decades and they have operated just fine with out any user interaction. I can count on one hand the people I know that have on a daily basis had to operate their TSTAT. Those that do, do so out of that geeky want and not so much because of the need. The bulk of it is simply a fad that will in time wear off like that shiny squish toy the dog used to bite on. *Hey look, squirrel* Ha . . .

Absolutely agree on these points made above . . .

No thanks needed just returning the favor! [emoji4] Ideals are peaceful - History is violent

Ramp rates in the past were defined as 9 minutes max. But most recently it has been changed to 8 minutes. The 994 Series Controller can not extend that time to 30 minutes though.

I believe this is the old manual: http://www.manualguru.com/insteon/2420m/users-manual This is the newer manual: http://cache.insteon.com/pdf/2420M.pdf

Well, that is kind of a loaded question, no? Ha . . . There are lots of LED bulbs on the market today and many are not dimmable. Others do not play well with Insteon so it comes down to trial and error for the most part. Many people have had excellent results with the HD Cree style bulbs only to to find out later on others had negative results with the same. Mostly in part to variability of the hardware etc. I've personally had great success to date with Lighting Science, Sylvania, Luminus, and Phillips. My recommendation is to purchase an entire box of any flavor of LED bulb you like. Doing so insures the same production run and hardware with in. Install them and see if the Insteon devices operate as expected and if so continue installing until each room is complete. If you find that you have too many simply return them to the store for a refund. Going this route saves time, travel, fuel, and your time because you got the box at one time.

As Stu indicated there are two basic methods to help determine noise makers / signal suckers in the home. The most direct approach is of course to unplug all devices in the home that are accessible. The secondary choice is to turn off all the breakers and see if communications return back to normal. In my personal experience and travels I use the breaker method as a secondary choice. The reason I do so is that it allows me to keep proper bridging / coupling in place. Anything that is hard to unplug like a fridge, freezers, stove, microwave, etc are of course turned off (temporarily) via the breaker method. Key things are trying to determine if there is a frequency of communication issues. Are they more common during morning, noon, evening, etc. Does the comm issue persists only during peak periods of occupancy? ie. Every night you're sitting back in that big aszz recliner. Watching the news at 5:30 PM. What is on during those periods and what other appliances are over lapping during that time? It should be noted that often times as electronics age they start to spew noise on to the line. This is why even if a device was fine last month, year, it may not be anymore. Also keeping in mind given the vast amounts of dual band hardware now in the market and in the homes today. This dual band technology has literally made homes which before using single band tech operate fine. But, only so far as being *teetering* on operating with in the 3 hop maximum that Insteon allows. In closing I can assure you if you invest the time over the week end to unplug every device you can and turn off the breakers you can't unplug. You will find something that is causing noise / or sucking the signal from the network. It goes with out saying remove the CFL bulbs and go from there first . . . NOTE: Smartlabs recommends XX dual band devices per every 1000 square feet. In my installs we always try to have a plugin dual band device at every corner of the home on all levels. At 6000 square feet and if your PLM is single band and the other gear is single band. Coupling - bridging is extremely important to insure consistent comms in the Insteon network.

As a data point I had a single band Insteon relay switch that controlled my front outside lights. All of the lights used incandescent bulbs and later I migrated them all to proven working LED's. This past year I noticed that I was able to locally control the lights but using any other KPL that was linked to this switch failed to operate at all. I did the famous hard reset, restore, and finally delete and remove and recreating the scenes. Ultimately, I found there was just something wrong with the switch which for what ever reason would not accept a linked command from other devices to activate it. This issue was extremely hard to diagnose and identify root cause as the ISY Console still was able to turn the relay switch on-off. Yet any linked devices in various parts of the home would not control the blasted thing. This past few months I was very fortunate to be able to replace a few of these single band devices with the much newer dual band versions which also offer dual color LED's to indicate same phase / opposite phase when the 4 tap beacon test is initiated. With out doing anything else besides adding this brand new dual band switch every KPL in the home was able to activate and control the new outdoor switch?!? I currently have this switch on my test bench and intend to take it apart and see how it reacts in a mini set up I have downstairs. I offer this insight because sometimes ultimately there is something wrong with the hardware that just doesn't work inside.

Hello Mitch, The older 2443 AP (Access Point) at that time offered the strongest RF coupling - bridging of any Insteon device for that period. The stated RF range was 150 feet, with 1.46 watt power consumption, along with a 150 volt surge rating. The latest 2992 RE (Range Extender) indicates 200 feet of direct line of sight RF, 0.8 watts power consumption, and the same 150 volt surge rating. Besides a smaller and much pleasing form factor that extra 50 feet may make a difference on a Insteon network that is teetering on poor coupling / bridging. It should be noted that all the coupling / bridging in the world will not supersede the need to identify, remove, filter noise makers / signal suckers.

Speaking from personal experience there is a model year that when power is applied the KPL will cycle and flicker the LED buttons and it will also flicker the attached load. These are just issues related to that early production year and newer units offer better PSU and wider supported voltages. They also incorporate much higher surge resistance in the design of the hardware. A Smarthome representative has also taken the time to respond to a customers review in the Smarthome website affirming the same. Like Paul I would inquire if there is anything they can do if these devices are out of warranty. I've seen them offer a larger discount for next purchases and given the 20% sale is on now you just might get a little extra? Asking is free and you never know who you may get on the other side of the line that may understand the huge investment you have made etc. Keep us all in the loop . . .

Understood if this is a rental property I would probably lean your way also. I thought this situation was a sell and go opportunity so given the new information I see value in spending the time to remove all and replace with common style switches. If going that route as a good balance you could sell some of them and keep those you feel are worth keeping. Given this week Smarthome is having their annual Black Friday event you should definitely take advantage of buying all the hardware you need for the new home. As an aside if you have any dual band KPL's for sale give me a shout, ha!

To be fair to UDI lots of this is due to the fact most of these TSTAT's insist upon providing access via cloud hosted services. Also, some of these companies do not offer full access to the units API. Those that offer a API offer limited access or features that are too basic to the average HA guy. Keeping in mind the ISY does in fact support all Insteon TSTAT's, more than a few Z-Wave units, and one ZigBee model. But, more to your point it would be great to see more resources directed toward popular TSTAT's so long as they meet the requirement of open API access and don't rely on the cloud. These two requirements sadly, reduces the chances UDI could or would be willing to spend time to develop support. Just my counter point on that . . .

May I humbly suggest unless finances are an issue that you leave the Insteon hardware in place and ensure mechanically everything operates as a normal person would expect? - Doing so will save tons of labor time and retrofit of old switches. - Unless your devices are less than two years old buying new ones will offer more features, lower power consumption, robust power supply, and increased surge resistance within the hardware. - All Insteon hardware should be hard reset upon receipt to insure any test links and programming are removed. This ensures each device is operating in the default OEM state. - With respect to the ISY Series Controller this link will offer the guidance you seek: http://wiki.universal-devices.com/index.php?title=ISY-99i/ISY-26_INSTEON:Advanced_Configuration_Guide#FR_.E2.80.93_Factory_Reset

If you require a Insteon TSTAT that supports a heat pump this item just came out: http://www.smarthome.com/insteon-2732-242-thermostat-for-heat-pump.html

You can access your 994 Series Controller with out the aid of port forwarding. You can control two or more units from the web portal and review logs etc.

This information was posted in another thread but since this is new I will relay the same for those wanting to know what devices are supported via the HUB II / Echo: http://www.insteon.com/support-knowledgebase/2015/9/10/supported-insteon-devices-with-amazon-echo This resource link also provides some details and insight about the various models of HUB's that are and were in production and how to identify them: http://www.insteon.com/support-knowledgebase/2015/4/13/identify-your-insteon-hub-version