Teken

I was thinking about something completely different - thanks! I thought you were going to say when there was this huge push from the likes of Staples, HD, etc to offer their own hubs only to fail and pull out in less than two years! [emoji1787][emoji2357]

This is what I should have done but it’s too late now because. Again, that number I highlighted was indeed 1000 when you stated 999 posts. It could also be related to the endless double posts the forum seems to do when it’s having a fit! [emoji2357]

I should have captured the image when your reply was 999. As that post was indeed 1000. Trust me, you hit a grand slam only seconds from my reply.

My answer still stands there isn’t anything I’m aware that allows us to automatically reboot the controller without human manual intervention. Whether that be from a smart application, cloud portal, Polyisy. All of them requires a person to actively press the soft reboot button.

Generally speaking for devices with dual LED the expected behaviour is this: Other Device: Blinking Green Different Leg Other Device: Blinking Red Same Leg Other Device: No blinking RF out of range Anything that doesn’t incorporate dual LED like single band and first generation of dual band. Think the KPL Relay you had to watch for the four squares to blink etc. Keep in mind the 4 Tap Beacon (Phase Bridging / Coupling) must be performed both ways. You’ll be shocked to see varying results vs the other path. [emoji3516]

That’s remote control vs automating the same via a script / program. As far as I’m aware no such feature exists where another computer can reboot the ISY Series Controller without human intervention. That also doesn’t address knowing 100% the controller is fully operational. Anyone who has seen their controller still run some programs / all. All the while they have zero control over the same via the AC can affirm this very scenario. Nobody serious uses only ping alive, heart beat, to determine a fully operational state. As it doesn’t offer that insight due to the dozens of other factors at play. Think someone pinging a box at home. Are you actually getting a response from the brains of said box vs the hardware NIC?!? Anyone who has ever experienced the Windows BSOD can tell you the box is absolutely bricked and yet you can ping it! This is why one doesn’t rely only on hardware level, software level, application level, transport level etc.

Some things to consider as it pertains to personal safety when considering automating. Things that control and manage water like the main feed, fire sprinkler, sump. Anything that manages the HVAC system. Things that produce heat like a coffee maker / kettle. To anything that moves or spins should not be integrated with a switch - outlet to come on by default. Unless you’re absolutely sure the same can not ever cause harm. In the various industries this is known as fail safe vs fail secure. As others noted many of these have built in memory to offer *Last known state* whether on / off. The vast majority of hardware in the past always defaulted to a off state (Fail Safe) due to safety and liability reasons. Fail secure devices are normally used for devices that must always have power to guard against adding to a problem. They are normally used on fire control, security alarms, fridge, freezer, sump, well, air exchange systems etc. Any device you believe offers fail secure (On when power is applied) should be validated as so by short cycling the device. This does not mean unplugging the device as you will never ever be fast enough to switch off the power from on-off-on! You either do this at breaker or wire it to a power bar with a toggle switch. You’ll quickly find out what you believe is Fail Secure hinges upon how much time has elapsed as many use capacitors to buffer their electronics to avoid unintended operations / change of state. Now with the growing so called cloud power devices you must be doubly sure to validate! There have been countless examples where the cloud was rebooted and caused a device to turn on / off! Well outside of what the device was set up to do in the past reliably. Think millions of people who had NEST turn off the heat in the dead of winter! [emoji2357][emoji1787][emoji107] Test, validate, confirm - don’t guess! [emoji3516]

It’s been a while refresh my memory about Wink? [emoji848]

Someone deleted their posts so mine would show up as 1000. Prior to that, yours was indeed 1000 (well deserved) [emoji106] You guys are funny thanks for the laughs! [emoji481]

Correct, I’ve seen the button in the portal but like you never seen a way to call this to action from another source. This is something that must exist in the Polyisy because there’s going to be situations where the box will be hung up and a remote boot that can be automated to remediate the same. Ping alive is not a serious solution or heart beat. Using a combination of both offers a little more insight but this too falls short in actually knowing the operating state of the controller! [emoji3516]

You have a link to this - never seen that before?!?

No current method to tell the ISY Series Controller to reboot. This feature has been asked for years I don’t know if it’s even on the endless *To Do List*.

The 4 tap beacon test will simply offer you three possibilities from no response, same leg, and opposite leg (bridged). You’ll need to review the full users manual for the specific model as some model years and iterations offered different states to affirm the three possible states.

[emoji1787] Mr. Bill has been very active helping the forum members. 1000 is his . . . [emoji106][emoji481]

I shouldn’t be too surprised - but am. [emoji3525]

One thing to consider which isn’t directly related to the problem at hand. But has plaque many routers in the past is how they handle friendly names. Some absolutely will freak out if you exceed the number of characters allowed. Others will drop off or won’t update correctly if special characters are used or spacing is present. As odd as this sounds a few in the past were bricked as when the router was rebooted and saw a label with the exact same model number as part of the friendly name extremely bad coding told the router to shut down or loop! [emoji2357]

It’s best practice to either assign a Static IP or reserve the same based on the MAC address but not both. Many routers allow a reservation within the DHCP Pool which should not be used. It should be outside of the DHCP Pool to avoid a IP conflict. Some custom firmware like Tomato and others depending upon version had a bug where it would duplicate the IP Address and obvious network conflict would ensue. This was famously seen on no less than three generations of LinkSys routers! [emoji107] Other things to consider while you’re rebooting all the network hardware is to clear all web cache / Java cache. Along with completing a IP & DNS Refresh / Renew on all systems so it will obtain the latest IP address either assigned or leased. Good luck! [emoji106]

Just ruined it! [emoji35]

1000 - It’s mine! [emoji106][emoji1787][emoji2357]

No worries, hope your granddaughters team wins! [emoji106]

Anything else on the network dropping off?!? If so that would really point to the router / mesh combo. Have you assigned a static IP address or reserved a DHCP address locked to the MAC address of the controller? If it’s just plain DHCP with no reservation hardware dropping off or not able to obtain a new DHCP lease is very common. This is more so where a network appliance does not follow and respect the standards where it must release and renew its IP address upon coming back on line / seen by the router. When such a problem exists this can create a IP conflict. Best case one or two devices can’t be seen and operate. Worse case it literally takes down the entire network! [emoji2357]

Let me know if you are able to check to validate if that is the case. I would think if a person stood there and pressed a single button to a group of shades. Both would receive the command and move at the same time. Surprisingly that isn’t the case even in 2021. [emoji1785] Given those asking may not find that to be a end all be all problem. I can’t say this is something I’d have in place where a row of blinds were tasked to go up / down / open / close. Appreciate the quick feedback! [emoji106]

Let me clarify my question if I can. Imagine a wall with four windows. I press a single button will all blinds open / close at the same time in unison? Or will they open / close in a staggered fashion one at a time not in sync? Some call how the Z-Wave lighting turns on / off as popcorn effect.

When did this start and what is the frequency of the problem of not being able to connect? What has changed in the network if any? How is it now being directly connected to the main router?

Every time I think your replies will be obvious?!? It’s not, and just classic left field home runs! [emoji1787][emoji106]