Teken

You’re mistaken as I have historic events and time lines to affirm the same. The magic bullet is the information I provided is what?!? Affirmed by the source - UDI . . . [emoji106]

Sorry don’t agree - facts are rooted in the information gathered by unbiased sources of information. Generally speaking facts are based on historical data gleaned from current events to determine what transpired. Obviously if human is part of that equation one must ask human what happened. Since human is quite fallible if possible multi points of information must be gathered and obtained to achieve a level of accuracy. Example: I crossed the road. How is that event determined to have happened?!? Regardless of how that information is obtained that event is based on what?!? Past event - history . . . It doesn’t matter what anyone says the action is - I walked across the road. Your reply about opinions applies to everything whether it be true or not. That’s why it’s important to ask the right questions to obtain the facts! [emoji3516]If 100 people are asked if I crossed the road the answer will very - why?!? Because some may not be paying attention and assumed I was already on that side. Some will just say yes because they are like the millions of iSheep and just want to conform and want to be part of a larger collective. The rest will simply affirm what they observed of me crossing the road. So if 80 people affirm me crossing the road that so called opinion has weight even though it’s not opinion it’s fact. An opinion is stating I walked very slowly compared to someone else. They didn’t like the colour of my sneakers even though it has no relevance to the question at hand - did I cross the road?!?

I didn’t have to do anything you did that all by yourself. [emoji106] My initial reply was given based on historical facts I know to be true. It’s not based on how I feel or other. [emoji3516] What I take issue is your lack of internet decorum of replying (yelling) by using all caps at me for no reason! You’ve been around forums long enough and know the UDI forum members. To know, if you’re going to put someone on blast. You better have the facts in hand because I’m the last guy you want to fight with.

I’m not sure what your need to argue with people is?!? [emoji2357] My reply was based and rooted in historical facts as to how UDI releases its firmware. It wasn’t speculation or what I might think! History is the victor and affirms my position - which means YOU’RE WRONG! [emoji1787][emoji106] Go toss a salad and drink a beer and ponder that.

Think you got your answer. [emoji2357][emoji1787]

[emoji2357][emoji1787][emoji106]

While I agree to some extent people often forget that the vast majority of people here like to blaze a trail. They are willing to take chances and accept a few bugs to obtain the latest and greatest. While others want a fully tested and stable version of the same officially called out. UDI is also following industry best practices of iterations and conformity whereby official releases are called out when and if they pass all of their internal steps to achieve the same. [emoji106]

I believe he meant to say if there was an official release vs Alpha, Beta, RC. The system would display it being available for update.

Its not a question of rain vs moisture being present. Depending upon where this device is (left in the open) in direct sun light and your environment. Condensation can and will build up so mitigation solutions must be present. Whether the box is water tight, managed air flow, to moisture absorbers etc.

I would suggest you go a different route and purchase some solar powered motion lights instead. This allows flexible placement, outdoor rated, and no worries about battery replacement and 120 VAC power. I've been testing the following 268 LED version as seen here for almost a year with fantastic results: https://www.amazon.com/Solar-Lights-Outdoor-Motion-Sensor/dp/B085242PLC/ref=sr_1_53?dchild=1&keywords=solar+motion+light&qid=1634591168&sr=8-53 They are extremely bright and if installed at the proper height will offer incredible light coverage. As seen here the motion light offers four sided illumination which offers great coverage. The MS is very sensitive and the stated 30 meter range is spot on and goes further if mounted higher. As it relates to video security proper lighting helps reduce motion blur / ghosting. But, you can only expect so much from a tiny sensor and hence its important to have a camera with a large sensor 1/1.8" ~ 1/1.2". All of this must tie into a camera system that offers WDR of at least 130, low lux of at least 0.000X, aperture of at least F1.0, and proper focal length to ID the target. A 2.8 mm is great to see a wide area but terrible to identify a face past 6 meters. The DORI specification of each camera should be read and understood if you expect to ID a person. When in doubt about focal length a vari-focal lens camera should be purchased which allows you to fine tune the FOV for the expected target area. At the end of the day a door bell camera or any of the toy like camera's from the likes of Nest, Google, etc will never offer you any serious night time money shot. Hence its imperative that the property use perimeter lighting that is proactive and reactive while reducing long term energy costs.

As noted up top neither the outlet / on-off modules are outdoor rated. One would ask how could that impact a person over the long run. Below is a thread which shows just a On-Off module attached to the wall in a well conditioned space. The OP simply pulled the module from the wall and the entire case blew apart! ? A year later I too experienced the same thing from a brand new unit literally just plugged in for about 2-3 months. As Mr. Bill noted simple condensation could be present inside of the electronics and thus causes the GFCI to trip. Moving forward you should try to document when this happens and what the temperatures are when this condition arises. It's common to see low temps at night where it drops to 10'C and moisture / dew will be present. Given, the outlet emits its own heat if the same is in an enclosed space the outdoor temp drops by ten degrees at night that's a recipe for moisture to be present. Regardless, if the On-Off module can simply break apart in a well conditioned space what do you think will happen in freezing / baking summers to the plastic?? Lastly, the so called UV rating Insteon indicates is a complete joke. If the UV level is rated from 1-5, five being the highest marine grade plastics. Insteon has to be at 1! ?

A GFCI can trip due to a surge / spike on the line besides detecting the 5~20 mA current flow. A pump no matter how small always has a surge current and thus can trip a GFCI.

[emoji1787][emoji2357]

[emoji1787]

Going off memory it’s held in the Java cache?!? So if you clear this frequently that might explain why it’s reset to the default blue colour.

Going off memory HL2 if available would be able to read all the links and hardware found in the Insteon network I believe.

Yes, keep in mind this feature may not exist for all Insteon hardware. You’ll want to test to validate it operates as intended. [emoji106]

[emoji106]

If I was a betting man and assuming the OP states is true about not seeing the two devices associated in the ISY Series Controller. The two could have been manually linked by mistake and hence why it doesn’t show up. This leads to affirming program locking all devices to guard against this potential problem. [emoji106]

The controller will identify it as whatever the hardware is 6 / 8. The potential problem you run into is if the hardware is a 8 button and you add it in and later manually change it to 6 button. The different nodes may not appear correctly. This also causes so called ghost links to remain in extreme cases.

Just a reminder make the physical change first before you add it to the ISY Series Controller. [emoji106]

Steps are listed in page 17. https://cache-m2.smarthome.com/manuals/2334-2xx.pdf

I can’t say if what you stated is true or their intent. But can say the lack of documentation and transparency as it relates to testing and scientific data to support this new product is troubling. [emoji107] This also doesn’t address how any (anti microbial) coating imbedded or otherwise would address dusk and other foreign substance falling and adhering to the casing.

I can’t honestly say given nothing was provided to me. I’m pretty surprised by this reply given Tripp Lite has been a leader in the SPD field for decades. Everything they make is based on solid and proven technology & science. At a loss as to why such a market leader would have nothing to back their marketing claims?!? You literally have a light bulb maker who has provided the same without even being asked??? It doesn’t matter if someone says the data is B.S. because you can at least have it peered reviewed to call out the mistakes / hype. Tripp Lite, literally offers nothing and expects the general public to accept the limited information at face value! What a crying shame . . . [emoji3525][emoji107]

I received a reply from someone within the science division of Tripp Lite. I was informed they do not have any public facing tests or documentation as it relates to this new anti microbial product they offer?!? [emoji2357] As the other member provided here about the UV-C light bulb. That company offered extensive tests and documentation about their product offerings. I find it extremely hard to believe such a well established company like Tripp Lite would not have the same?!? The initial reply to me was they don’t provide any proprietary information to the public. Again, the ask by me was to receive public facing marketing / independent testing materials to better understand how this hardware can help protect or reduce the transfer of germs / viruses! [emoji107] Tripp Lite - WTF???