Teken

While I agree to some extent people often forget that the vast majority of people here like to blaze a trail. They are willing to take chances and accept a few bugs to obtain the latest and greatest. While others want a fully tested and stable version of the same officially called out. UDI is also following industry best practices of iterations and conformity whereby official releases are called out when and if they pass all of their internal steps to achieve the same. [emoji106]

I believe he meant to say if there was an official release vs Alpha, Beta, RC. The system would display it being available for update.

Its not a question of rain vs moisture being present. Depending upon where this device is (left in the open) in direct sun light and your environment. Condensation can and will build up so mitigation solutions must be present. Whether the box is water tight, managed air flow, to moisture absorbers etc.

I would suggest you go a different route and purchase some solar powered motion lights instead. This allows flexible placement, outdoor rated, and no worries about battery replacement and 120 VAC power. I've been testing the following 268 LED version as seen here for almost a year with fantastic results: https://www.amazon.com/Solar-Lights-Outdoor-Motion-Sensor/dp/B085242PLC/ref=sr_1_53?dchild=1&keywords=solar+motion+light&qid=1634591168&sr=8-53 They are extremely bright and if installed at the proper height will offer incredible light coverage. As seen here the motion light offers four sided illumination which offers great coverage. The MS is very sensitive and the stated 30 meter range is spot on and goes further if mounted higher. As it relates to video security proper lighting helps reduce motion blur / ghosting. But, you can only expect so much from a tiny sensor and hence its important to have a camera with a large sensor 1/1.8" ~ 1/1.2". All of this must tie into a camera system that offers WDR of at least 130, low lux of at least 0.000X, aperture of at least F1.0, and proper focal length to ID the target. A 2.8 mm is great to see a wide area but terrible to identify a face past 6 meters. The DORI specification of each camera should be read and understood if you expect to ID a person. When in doubt about focal length a vari-focal lens camera should be purchased which allows you to fine tune the FOV for the expected target area. At the end of the day a door bell camera or any of the toy like camera's from the likes of Nest, Google, etc will never offer you any serious night time money shot. Hence its imperative that the property use perimeter lighting that is proactive and reactive while reducing long term energy costs.

As noted up top neither the outlet / on-off modules are outdoor rated. One would ask how could that impact a person over the long run. Below is a thread which shows just a On-Off module attached to the wall in a well conditioned space. The OP simply pulled the module from the wall and the entire case blew apart! ? A year later I too experienced the same thing from a brand new unit literally just plugged in for about 2-3 months. As Mr. Bill noted simple condensation could be present inside of the electronics and thus causes the GFCI to trip. Moving forward you should try to document when this happens and what the temperatures are when this condition arises. It's common to see low temps at night where it drops to 10'C and moisture / dew will be present. Given, the outlet emits its own heat if the same is in an enclosed space the outdoor temp drops by ten degrees at night that's a recipe for moisture to be present. Regardless, if the On-Off module can simply break apart in a well conditioned space what do you think will happen in freezing / baking summers to the plastic?? Lastly, the so called UV rating Insteon indicates is a complete joke. If the UV level is rated from 1-5, five being the highest marine grade plastics. Insteon has to be at 1! ?

A GFCI can trip due to a surge / spike on the line besides detecting the 5~20 mA current flow. A pump no matter how small always has a surge current and thus can trip a GFCI.

[emoji1787]

Going off memory it’s held in the Java cache?!? So if you clear this frequently that might explain why it’s reset to the default blue colour.

Going off memory HL2 if available would be able to read all the links and hardware found in the Insteon network I believe.

Yes, keep in mind this feature may not exist for all Insteon hardware. You’ll want to test to validate it operates as intended. [emoji106]

[emoji106]

If I was a betting man and assuming the OP states is true about not seeing the two devices associated in the ISY Series Controller. The two could have been manually linked by mistake and hence why it doesn’t show up. This leads to affirming program locking all devices to guard against this potential problem. [emoji106]

The controller will identify it as whatever the hardware is 6 / 8. The potential problem you run into is if the hardware is a 8 button and you add it in and later manually change it to 6 button. The different nodes may not appear correctly. This also causes so called ghost links to remain in extreme cases.

Just a reminder make the physical change first before you add it to the ISY Series Controller. [emoji106]

Steps are listed in page 17. https://cache-m2.smarthome.com/manuals/2334-2xx.pdf

Just some clarification as it relates to breakers in general. Breakers, like fuses, are intended to protect the wire from burning up. It’s only because the same is designed and implemented by man that the human element is at play. GFCI on the other hand are designed to protect human. AFCI’s were designed to detect micro arching within the buildings wiring in hopes of reducing fire within an enclosed space like a wall. As with anything man has created many first generation of breakers were proven to be faulty by design. Anyone can relate to the first generation of nuisance tripping from GFCI / Breakers. Those who have used power line Ethernet or power line communication like Insteon can also relate. Any home that has 1990 versions of anything need to inspect and replace the same. As they offer absolutely no protection because they were defective by design depending upon the maker.

We have opposing views on some topics - it’s true. At the end of the day you always agree with me because I’m - Right! [emoji106] Don’t worry young Jedi still lots to teach you! [emoji1787]

[emoji1787][emoji2357] I’m pretty sure you know me well enough that I don’t go out of my way to argue with people just for the sake of doing so! I’m here to spread the love and information when and where I can. If it helps just a single person now or in the future - great! [emoji106]

He indicated he didn’t know how to identify if a problem exists. I offered some simple and basic tools almost anyone has and can do. If he wants to confirm at some point - OK. If not that’s OK too! [emoji106]

Simple - turn on the lights. Go to another part of the home and turn things on and off. If things are slower or don’t react as you expect you have a problem. Open the AC and do a scene test while the level 3 error logs are running. If the system shows 0 hops left you need to identify where the noise maker / signal sucker is coming from. You can even go old school like me and grab a AM-FM radio and tune it to a empty channel and listen to any injected RFI noise. If you turn on the radio and hear just a steady background noise. Turn on the LED do you hear a pop or more hiss?!? If you do that’s RFI being emitted in the air. If you still have a fluorescent tube light do the same. If you see the bulb flicker that’s EMI being injected into the air. [emoji106]

Besides dimming to a low level the true test is if the same dims smoothly up and down! Many LED may offer one or the other but very few do both well! That’s why I always say once you find that solid product buy a whole stack from the same carton. Keep in mind none of that addresses if the LED bulb will have any impact to your Insteon network. Whether it be a signal sucker vs noise maker or both! Test, don’t guess . . .

When you ask the controller to repeat something in very short sequence / duration. If this condition exists for a very long time or (IF) other programs are taxing the system while this scenario is happening the end result is the controller can become unresponsive / bricked. As such it’s important to limit tight loop programs. [emoji106]

You’re playing with fire going this route. It’s best to use what Larry suggests or something like a strobe / reader board to call out a condition. The endless 1 second repeats will lock the controller up and your access will be limited if required. [emoji3516]

I’m not sure where you got that information but you absolutely can. As I have been using that alternative firmware since it’s first release and now too. I have two controllers that have Insteon and ZigBee both of which restore fine when needed. Just wanted to offer that insight and clarification for those reading this thread. [emoji106]

Before doing so what does the system indicate as the PLM connection state? Connected and displays the Insteon ID? If you also press on a switch (locally) does the status reflect the same in the AC and vs if you turn on / off via the AC? If you select query (right mouse click) and it turns back to normal you’re good. If it remains red dollars to donuts the PLM restore needs to be done for at least the new 2413S PLM. As you can’t just plug it in and hardware will operate as the PLM isn’t linked correctly to the Insteon hardware / ISY Series Controller.