Teken

Hello Thanatar, Can you point to the area where I can do this to an existing audio file? Everything in the software is in the default state and the volume / recording levels are all at their maximum levels. I see no way to *Boost* the audio at all unless its in a hidden window pane.

Yes, I saw mention of a few on the older SH forums as well. I was a little taken aback considering it was a brand new product and *Thought* someone would have sat down and said: Lets make this a real solid and kick aszz value controller Sadly, like many other products from Smartlabs it seems once its been released into the wild there is very little in ways of updates. This single life release ideology really makes me shake my head as to what drives this company. We already know Joe Dadda and team were completely hopeless in almost every way in terms of being serious in the HA field. Only a fool would have sat back and let others (Z-Wave / ZigBee) take market share every single year!! As of this writing I don't see any positive movement from the new guy who bought this company besides go toward the cheap end. From firing previous Devs to outsourcing all sales and technical assistance to the freaking Indians. HOW CAN YOU MAKE THINGS WORSE: Have people who can't speak or understand English . . .

Considering the hardware revision has moved from 2.0 to 2.3 ~ someone is trying. But, its clear to me the lack of any serious engineering standards are being applied. This comes across to me either the powers that be are incompetent or out and out just don't care. They see the 2413S PLM as a regular revenue stream. I am at a complete loss how any company would allow one of the primary components in any serious home automation system continue to have a black eye toward the Insteon brand. I have to assume the new guy who bought the company is working on this or is completely clueless to this problem.

Another issue I've recently come to see and wonder if others have seen. I created ten additional voice announcements and for what ever reason the volume is (approx) 30~40% lower than the existing ones in place?!? Has anyone else seen this while creating new Julie U.S. voices? I had considered there was a problem on the little netbook I was using so went to another work station but the results were the same. I than went to another work station and the results were also the same! If anyone has a recommendation for a sound level normalizer program let me know because this is super annoying.

LOL [emoji23]

I would affirm once again, if a slow blow fuse was intended it would have been incorporated into the final hardware. My feedback is strictly to enforce the material facts that a person can't *Wild Willy* replace a quick blow fuse with something not intended to be present. Also, I am extremely confident those who ignore the above and use a slow blow fuse will have nothing but a smoldering brick should a out of band current condition exist. Many of us can already state Insteon hardware isn't the best and thought out designs which use the best electronic parts. The Synchro Linc like its other siblings: Energy Meter, iSolo, 240 load controller, Toggle Linc, etc haven't seen a update in hardware design since product launch.

All great options and solutions. Assuming the OP wants to stick with Insteon he could also go with the Smartenit: https://www.smarthome.com/smartenit-ezio8sa-insteon-compatible-input-output-controller.html Like you just because you monitor one thing it won't cover all bases which your example illustrated. I talked about the very same when the topic was for monitoring a freezer / fridge. Just because you monitor for power (watts) or line voltage it doesn't offer the true insight of other failures in the system. Freezer Examples: Monitor for voltage: This doesn't tell you if the door is ajar, thermostat is set too low / too high, Freon leak, leaky seal, etc. Monitor for Temperature: This doesn't tell you if line voltage has been lost for an extended period of time, thermostat is faulty causing long run times, etc Monitor for Power: This doesn't tell you if the temperature is with in the safe operating range, leaky seals, low Freon, compressor fault, etc

For me, energy monitoring translates directly to energy management in my home environment. Knowing something is only part of the big puzzle ~ Its using that new found knowledge that allows you to manage in band vs out of band conditions. With the tight integration of the ISY Series Controller with my Brultech GEM I am all knowing and in control of the homes superstructure. Lots of this on the surface may seem like a novelty but Mwester has shown one perfect example of how *Knowing* helps reduce loss and failures. Being able to know when the washer, dryer, dishwasher, fridge, freezer, sump, stove, furnace, air conditioner, solar PV, generator, etc. Are on, off, how long, how many cycles, provides long term insight on performance and impending faults. As stated in here; http://forum.universal-devices.com/topic/22433-how-could-i-monitor-how-much-my-sump-pump-is-running/?p=219165 and affirmed by Mwester a I/O Linc with the appropriate CT offers the best long term use and experience (IF) Insteon is the method of choice.

That isn't what I'm talking about at all. My key point is a person can't assume they can stick any kind of fuse (slow blow vs quick blow) fuse into a piece of hardware. My reply was to affirm doing so would more than likely permanently damage the Syncho Linc should a large inrush current be present. The reason Mwester blew a fuse is because his environment saw an amperage that exceeded the fuse rating. I won't debate whether or not the Insteon design is sound that is a totally different conversation. Regardless, a person can't just wild willy insert a larger amperage fuse, or a completely different protection system that the system wasn't designed to accept like a slow blow fuse. In all likely hood if Mwester had inserted a slow blow fuse as a replacement the entire board would have been damaged and not just the fuse itself. Fuses are in place for several reasons and primary its to meet safety certifications and that often translates to protecting the hardware itself.

The decision to use a slow blow vs fast blow fuse is dictated by the tolerances of the hardware design. I can assure you inserting a slow blow fuse would have damaged the Synchro Linc completely. So instead of a primary protection a slow blow fuse would have allowed excessive amperes to continue to flow through the hardware and thus letting out the magic smoke permanently. People should not assume changing out a specified fuse is a small thing.

Given the possible faults in this Insteon solution you may want to consider a Z-Wave energy monitor plug? If you don't have Z-Wave than a I/O Linc coupled with a CT is another choice. As stated early on monitoring critical loads in my home was a key objective for me. Because of this I went all in and installed a Brultech GEM. Going this route allows me to monitor 64 discreet circuits without worry of a fault. Having integrated all of this with Alexa & Julie U.S. and custom emails I know everything that is on, off, how long, too short, too hot, too cold, exceeds watts, KWH, current, volt-amps, PF, etc. for me this is for the long haul and thus invested accordingly because I'm done with wasting money and time. Just my thoughts . . . [emoji848][emoji106] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

If this is geared toward a Insteon solution than a Synchrolinc would be your hardware choice. If you have a Z-Wave enabled controller you can purchase any of the energy monitoring outlets. I already do this on a much larger and complex way via energy monitoring / energy management.

LOL [emoji23] As Stu noted the ISY Series Controller accepts a very wide VDC from 5~30 VDC. If you have Z-Wave / ZigBee a 1.5 - 2.0 ampere PSU is highly recommended from personal experience. [emoji106] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I don't believe the 2413S PLM has the required power supply to feed into the ISY Series Controller like the older 2412S PLM.

There are only a hand full of Insteon devices which the firmware supports the ability to select RF / Powerline to be disabled. Of the top of my head they are the dual outlet, plugin on-off relay module. None of the single band switches / KPL's have ever offered such an option. Even newer dual band switches and KPL's don't offer such an option unless something has changed recently.

Does the 2477D have direct control of the fan? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hello Joe, Since you already removed the physical hardware at this point you can simply delete the nodes in the device tree. Ensure you reboot the controller once done. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Just to be clear when I say wider gap I'm referring to the physical gap distance from magnet to reed switch not the internal reed gap. Regardless, a reed switch that is super sensitive to the magnetic pull is the result of a closer reed gap and thinner plate material. If you already ordered a replacement reed switch you might consider giving it another go. As stated early on I've installed many of these without too much issues for friends, family, clients. Circle back and let us know what you end up doing and the final results. [emoji846] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I initially thought that was the root cause. But these NR's were related to temperature for the 1 Wire network. Like you I played with adding a few seconds of wait in the program to solve that issue. Right now I'm monitoring this condition to see if that solves the issues. So far that has solved the problem but can't understand how this came about after working fine without a wait statement for months?!? [emoji848][emoji34] Regardless, Julie U.S. has added a whole new level of interaction and awareness that I never had in my HA system. Being proactively told of a condition has simply been outstanding!! [emoji106] For me this isn't about the wow factor. It's about being able to know something important / relevant is happening in and around the home. Much thanks to everyone who had a hand in this amazing project!! [emoji106] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

You confirmed when you rang the door bell the reed is on the correct solenoid? If it is than as I said a wider gap reed would help. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I don't own this device but past threads indicate most of the features are changed and operated by this software application: http://smartenit.com/resources-and-downloads/

http://forum.universal-devices.com/topic/22393-remote-triggering-of-events/

Yeah ~ I wanted to move away and limit my *Risks* from kerosene lamps. Keeping too many explosive / highly combustible liquids on hand was going to impact my ongoing cUL certification. Some I donated others I sold or gave to family and friends who could use them for camping. Right now my main focus is going very old school in all of the systems in the home. The goal is to have three back ups that don't rely on the grid or electricity to produce heat, water, light, and food (cold) storage. Its been a fantastic but long journey to meet the *Power of 3*.

Its safe to say 99% of the population does this too, as have I. I don't want people reading my reply misunderstanding what I stated up above. What I have done in my home is a lifestyle which I feel is a good investment for the security and safety of the family. This is also one of the major *Hobbies* I enjoy in life and my home is giant testing ground for system(s). Its safe to say none of this could have been done or accomplished with out the Internet, Online Sales, and Government auctions. The average person isn't going to have eight 120/240 refrigerator sized UPS's in their home like I did. Also, I am a *Old School* fan of low tech too . . . LOL . . .

Assuming you have the ISY Portal you could have House A send a command via IFTTT to the other house B which is linked to what ever Insteon device. I'm sure there are other ways but that's one that popped in my head.