Teken

In past firmware the DST check box was available to enable / disable separately. In later firmware it appears this behavior has changed and is tied to the other field box's. But the reality is (IF) your region observes DST you would simply enter the city / state if listed - If not listed, you would simply enter the coordinates / custom location. At that point the DST would simply follow what program logic dictates as to when DST should begin / end.

When you select *Daylight Savings Rule* if you scroll all the way up there is a (OFF) option. Selecting that option will present you with a pop up about are you sure you want to disable etc. The field box will be white and not grey at that point but you still won't be able to check it because DST has been turned off.

A very simple method is to use a open-close sensor and install a pair of wires to the external I/O contacts. Insert the wires to what ever depth you feel offers the best balance of over flow vs high water limit. The only thing you need is to create a custom email affirming the very same. I offer this method because its inherently safe and doesn't rely on a Insteon I/O linc which requires 120 VAC. It doesn't matter if the device is connected to a GFCI water and electricity simply don't mix. The other benefit is you can elevate the open-close sensor for the best RF reception / transmission. Ensure you use high quality lithium batteries for the widest operational range and performance.

Depending upon how much direct sun light is cast on to the door and what type of material the door slab is made with. A change in slab temperature can false trip a cheap motion sensor like the Insteon unit. A none insulated door slab will present such an occurrence as there will be hot / cold spots seen by the IR sensor. Other considerations are HVAC vents which routinely false trip motion sensors. When the two problems are mixed together (door slab / vents) this is a recipe for erratic performance and behavior.

There should be no difference for such a short wire run. Keep in mind the I/O linc needs to be (armed / activated) as noted in my install thread for the *How To* the black set button needs to be pressed. This arms the system and once power is lost closes the relay and connects the other end of the contacts to the Open-Close sensor. The only thing that would impact the Open-Close sensor is poor RF mesh in that area. If so then having the ability to raise the module higher to receive and send the RF signal to the closest Insteon hardware is the expected outcome. As you already know you're working with two pieces of hardware which are not dual band. So if that area does not have a dual band device please ensure you have something close by. Otherwise you will find erratic performance and operations. This would be a very good time to place that Open-Close sensor on the heart beat program that Belias has created. I've done this to all devices in my home because its a crude method to determine RF in range / out of range and obviously battery operations.

Information Only: The price the OP is indicating is based on the ever changing stock of *Refurbished* hardware being sold for $29.99. The regular price of all the Micro Modules is $49.99, purchasing the 4 pack drops the costs down to $44.99 each. Baring a Insteon sale of 5-20% discount consumers should expect to pay the retail price unless a sale is present. Lastly, it should be fully understood all refurbished hardware come with a 30 day warranty. You do not enjoy the typical 2 year warranty coverage most of us have come to expect. Meaning if there is a failure you better hope it happens during the 30 day warranty period otherwise you are SOL. Having multiple devices buried inside a JBOX at ground level isn't anymore difficult vs a standard switch. But when these same modules are used extensively and hidden in high rise areas in the ceiling. One can only imagine the extremely low WAF when something goes wrong . . . My suggestion is to deploy all *Refurbished* hardware immediately and have them running for a 72 hour burn in period. If something is going to happen it most likely will show itself during what some call infant mortality syndrome. After the 72 hours burn in keep a close eye on those device well within the 30 day period to ensure they can be exchanged. Otherwise that $30.XX you believe you saved on isn't so much of a savings when they go poof . . .

Could you offer a little more insight about the Pronto RFX 9600 and what it does for you in your setup. I am intrigued to say the least! Glad it was all sorted out - Rock On . . .

The inherent downside of using programs vs scenes are programs relies on the controller / 2413S PLM being on line and active. Using a scene to link directly to all devices will always operate regardless of a controller / PLM being present. Scenes also react faster vs programs . . . You're only going to do this once so you might as well do it right the first time . . .

You don't add the 2413S PLM . . . Please follow this excellent document Paul B created to help facilitate the replacement process: http://forum.universal-devices.com/topic/19331-my-plm-died-and-i-bought-a-new-one-what-should-i-do-next/

You have my vote for a purpose built temperature / humidity sensor assuming Smartlabs doesn't decide to integrate the very same into an existing product like the motion sensor. It was really great to see the company take on several of my suggestions about the USB power and many others for the latest motion sensor. I truly believe once full development of the API of the latest motion sensor is released to the developers the consumer will be very impressed with the Insteon motion sensor. Back on topic: I believe there is a market for dedicated Insteon temperature / humidity sensor. My only ask and wants is the sensors must be accurate, offer wide range, and high resolution. As I pro consumer I am willing to pay extra for something that is reliable, accurate, and capable in all aspects of environmental monitoring. Lastly, like the latest motion sensor which offers USB power support I expect to have the same. The only difference is that this new product should use a hardwired power to compliment the battery and not supersede it. Like many here my home is and was inundated with countless battery operated devices. At this stage in my life I have no love for hardware that use batteries as the primary method to operate. I don't need or want the long term costs, reliability, and maintenance issues that comes with having to use said batteries.

If you're using the standard firmware it relies upon the 2413S PLM to be present. If you wish to have the ISY Series Controller ignore this problem you need only install the alternate firmware. Which completely ignores the 2413S PLM as being missing and not connected.

When electronics age things start to happen. Keep in mind older Insteon hardware such as the KPL have been impacted by the very same capacitor issues seen on the 2413S PLM. This could all be a sign the KPL's and not the load is the issue. Depends how old your KPL are and also if they all have the better 100~240 VAC PSU inside. ========================= The highest calling in life is to serve ones country faithfully - Teach others what can be. Do what is right and not what is popular.

Everything you've state thus far along with the video points to a noise from the LED loads. Whether they are noise makers vs signal suckers depends upon what the designers have placed inside of the hardware. Generally speaking anytime there are high value capacitors in place they will filter signals. Noise makers generally speaking come from the power supply of the internal ballasts of the hardware. The KPL you referenced does not formally support LED lighting . . . There are only two Insteon products that do which are the ILL and the other I don't recall off the top of my head. A snubber is normally used for items which offer CEMF / kick back like from a fan motor etc. The only reason I offered up the snubber is sometimes LED fixtures do a very poor handling of voltage field handling. A lay person would inquire WTF does voltage field handling mean?!? Basically when you see a LED fixture that tuns off abruptly at 10 to 5% of brightness this is the voltage field handling. Many LED fixtures will kick out huge amounts of voltage when it turns off. Engineers will *Normally* include filters to absorb this voltage spike. Many do a pretty good job while others not so much . . . NOTE: Using a random Snubber can depending upon where its placed on the circuit will impact the Insteon signal. This is why very specific Snubbers with the qualified capacitance value is called out for use.

Everything I've seen points to - a few possible issues: - KPL's are being impacted by the LED load which you stated can not be removed because they are integrated into the housing. Normally a person would remove the load and replace with a incandescent and the results would be self evident. In your case you will never know because nothing can be removed unless you go through the effort to do so. 100% of the time if a load can be turned on but can't be turned off its the load. If a device restore fix's the issue / hard reset its because the load is locking up the KPL and can also make it corrupt links in the hardware. You will probably find replacing the switches to solve the issue in the near term but rest assured that is a band aid because more than likely they too will become erratic / damaged. Moving forward your choices are to replace one single LED unit and see what happens. Or to purchase and install a few inline filters to see if that resolves the issues. In line filters will not resolve feedback issues and if that is the problem a snubber is the correct tool to use. These are the line filters that may help: https://www.x10.com/xpnr-noise-reducer.html This is one of many quality snubbers used by others: http://www.redlion.net/accessory/snub-r-c-snubber-inductive-load-supressor

^

Hello Paulw, I've sent you a PM with the direct link to the repair process. Please scroll down to the last quarter of the thread to see the steps taken to repair the KPL.

If the 2413S PLM is nearing the two year production mark it may very well be needing a replacement. When you have time please indicate all the data the white sticker says for the production date etc. In the Admin Console under the Help->About please let us know what the system notes as the firmware in use for the 2413S PLM. You can run a PLM compare also while the house is completely silent with no movement. Run the test 4-5 times and let us know how many links the system indicates. If you say you have for example 25 devices and the system comes back noting 12 links or something really stupid. Its safe to say the 2413S PLM is having issues and needs to be replaced. Please follow the UDI WiKi listed here for the steps to follow to ensure a positive outcome: http://wiki.universal-devices.com/index.php?title=ISY-99i/ISY-26_INSTEON:File_Menu#Replace_Modem_.28PLM.29 - If the device is under the 2 year warranty period ensure you submit a RMA for replacement and ask for a cross dock. Doing so will charge your CC first but a replacement will come immediately while you send back the old one. - If the 2413S PLM is well past the 2 year warranty mark and you have a soldering iron and some time you can take on this cheap fix: http://forum.universal-devices.com/topic/13866-repair-of-2413s-plm-when-the-power-supply-fails/page-1 - Other resources: http://wiki.universal-devices.com/index.php?title=INSTEON_No_Status_Feedback_From_Devices - Link Calculator: http://www.universal-devices.com/tools/insteon/calc_plm_links.htm

I suspect during your first go at this something happen. This is why I skipped the whole device restore process as it takes a long time and you simply don't know if its going to work. As labor-some as it is to delete, add, and then recreate the scenes its nothing compared to sitting and waiting for something to happen. When you come back its in the same previous state . . . My humble suggestion is take this week end find a comfortable chair, tall cup of coffee, and just delete, add, and recreate all the scenes. Once done please ensure you complete a new back up and store one to the cloud and one to a local USB storage device.

Delete one single device from the system and add it back. Once fully enrolled press the switch and report back if the level 3 logs show that action.

You don't need to do anything just subscribe to the ISY Portal. ========================= The highest calling in life is to serve ones country faithfully - Teach others what can be. Do what is right and not what is popular.

I would say it would bring you to the 2017 Super God Status if you did.

Just to be clear UDI has received the final production units which will be the same hardware the public will see. Alpha / Beta units are just that hardware that were used to determine areas of improvement and design choices. If you placed a pre order for February it will be the same unit as the one UDI needs to reevaluate for integration.

Also just to add one more data point for those having the older leak sensors / open close sensors. You will need to include the on-off heart beat node as some firmware sent a off instead of a on. Including both will increase the chance of success but keep in mind all of this highly depends upon a strong Insteon RF mesh being present. Anyone using Belias's most excellent Leak Sensor program would already know if the device was in proper RF range anyways.

You have several options depending upon the hardware in use. For the motion sensor your only option is to walk past the sensor and once detected the write device update will commence. For those hardware devices which include a heart beat node you can use that as the (IF) condition to initiate the very same. Obviously using the heart beat requires you to wait the customary 24 hours to lapse. Lastly, depending upon hardware / firmware in place for the device a wait of 0-3 seconds may be required to allow the remote write to happen correctly.

This (Auto Demand Response) is for those who have the energy module with the ZigBee daughter board to connect to the homes electrical meter. As I understood it those who participate in the Auto DR could let the system send a signal to the ISY Series Controller in hopes of load shedding high current appliances when the grid was over saturated. Those who participated were offered reduced tiered, ToU, Flat, rates etc. https://www.universal-devices.com/utility/ https://www.universal-devices.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/Universal_Devices_ISY994.pdf