carealtor

That's where I found mine.

I've been using ISY and reading this forum for many years and have never known this before. Could be the source of several issues I've had. Hmm.

@paulbates In all of my testing of this, every manual initiation works. Turning on the scene and running the program Then segment both work. Yes, there are other commands in the then segment. I will try adding a wait, but it doesn't seem like that is the issue since manually running it works. Good suggestion, and I will try it tonight.

This one has me stumped. I have a scene and the only thing in it is a keypad button. It's the A button if that's important. There is no load connected to this keypad. I have a program that turns on the scene in a Then segment. There are several other actions in this same Then segment that run without issue. What is very odd is that this keypad button does indeed physically turn on when it should, but the ISY says the button is off. A query, either manually or in the program will fix it.

The only thing that would interest me in a smart appliance is the ability to keep the time accurate on the microwave and oven. Mine always drift off (in opposite directions). But seeing as how my printer and pool controller (both connected to the network) can't keep the time right, it will probably take the technology of a manned Mars landing to get any appliances to keep accurate time.

Maybe. But I try to get away from IR whenever I can. This setup lets the Harmony Hub communicate with the ISY over IP instead. My wish for Logitech/Harmony is that they would incorporate more components into their IP controllable database. Both my Sony receiver and Bluray are IP controllable, but the Harmony does not have the capability to do it. So I have to use IR for those.

@DaveStLou Here is the main thread: You don't need a Hue Hub or a Hue anything for that matter. I don't have any Hue products. Looks like are well versed in using Polyglot, so just install the Hue Emulator from the store. In the ISY AC put a "1" (without quotes) in the spoken of any devices or scenes you want to control. Make sure the Hue Emulator is in listen mode. Go to your MyHarmony devices Home Control tab and scan for devices. It should find a Hue Hub and bring in the ISY devices. Then just add to the Home Control buttons.

I suggest you look into the Hue Emulator in Polyglot. It will allow you to control ISY devices and scenes with the Harmony home control buttons. It does not use IR, which I find to be much better. I can probably help if you get stuck.

Just fyi, I'm not pursuing this anymore. Running an app on my Android TV is not in actuality what I want to do. What I really want to do is run an app on my Sony Bluray player. I asked to see the NR because I thought I might be able to modify it to do the same with the Bluray player, but I believe they are very different animals. Feel free to correct me if I am wrong. Now if anyone wants to enlighten me as to how I might go about directly running an app on the Bluray player, I'm all ears. Right now I am using a series of cursor direction commands to start an app. It works, but it's not very elegant.

I'm finally getting around to playing with this tonight. Where do I put the code that comes up on the TV when registering?

Follow up to this. Home Assistant has a "Roku emulator" that can be used to do this. Very similar to how the "Hue emulator" allows use of the Home Control buttons, the HA Roku emulator allows use of the Home Entertainment buttons. This works because the Roku is a Home Entertainment device that is WiFi controlled by the Harmony Hub.

@dwengrovitz I think what you are seeing is the same bug that is being discussed here. The backlight level being displayed is not being refreshed. So you are wanting to see the backlight level of one of the other 26 switches, but in reality you are still seeing the level for the one switch you changed to 50%.

This statement intrigues me. Are you saying that, with a Network Resource, you can start any app that is on a Sony TV? I would love to see a screen shot of an example NR that is something other than Netflix. I don't know if it matters, but I am not using Alexa.

I got the "Touch HD" 16 zone. I like the pretty pictures on the screen. So far, same here.

+2 on the RainMachine

2.5 mm mono for sure.

I believe that should work fine, assuming there is good RF connection between the remote and the hub.

Maybe this helps. As you noted, there are 2 blaster outputs on the hub. There is also a blaster in the hub itself, so that is 3 blasters total. There is also the option to use the IR in the remote itself if you have line of sight, so that's 4 options. Some devices can be set up to use IP instead, so you don't even need IR.

Oh wow. How did I not realize that this existed. Been playing with it the last hour or so. Fantastic!

Hopefully I'm making this more difficult than it is and/or there is a simple solution. I'm only going to describe one scenario, but I have others. A solution to this scenario will help me with all of them. I use a Smartthings hub strictly to be able to access the Home Control buttons on my Harmony Elite remotes. The Harmony Home Control button is a Virtual Switch on Smartthings, which in turn triggers IFTTT, which, through ISY Portal, controls a physical Insteon wall switch in my ISY. Because it is a physical wall switch, it can and will be used too. Which means I have to synchronize the press of the Insteon wall switch back to the Smartthings hub in order for the Harmony to show the correct state of the light. I accomplish this through the ISY Network Resources and IFTTT. It works, mostly. Sometimes, if I turn the light on and then off too quick with the Insteon wall switch, it goes into a loop. There is a lag in all of this because of IFTTT. So if I switch the physical Insteon wall switch on and off too quickly, that is, the off signal is sent to Smartthings before the first on signal from Smartthings has come back, I now have a flashing light. I'm not sure if I made this understandable, but I hope so. In the quick on then off scenario described, I need a way to hold back the off from the ISY from being sent to the Smartthings hub until after the on signal, that will inevitably come from the Smartthings hub, has come through to the ISY.

Thanks @apostolakisl So far, this is same conclusion that I've come to.

Yeah, I don't know either. But I haven't tried it yet.

@giesen Thank you very much for finding that. It looks like an interesting possibility. Way over my head, but I will probably give it a go anyway. @Jimbo Correct me if I'm wrong, but I think you have to use the Home Control buttons for Hue. I want to use the other buttons and screen.

I think it's more about the challenge rather than whether IR can do it or not.

Thanks for the comments. I swear, this has become the search for the Holy Grail for me. I thought the Android Box solution was at least a solution that would work, even if extremely round-about. But not having any experience with an Android Box, it wasn't until I really started to think it through... How does Harmony communicate to the Android Box? It appears to me that it is IR, so that puts the kibosh on that. If I was going to go IR (which I'm not), it would make more sense to just use an extender (as suggested) and use the ISY IR. The search continues...