larryllix

That one always puzzled me too. Possible they got an agreement before the change in management, or change of mind, inside Smarthome. If they could get access to the technology and sell it, why couldn't UDI ?

I never declare any devices as a "light" in my Alexa app. All items are defined as "Device/Switch" and they all control an ISY program. I only use On and Off commands. To do this, all programs control Insteon Scenes and program Scenes (mostly WiFi lighting) with various brightness levels. eg. Alexa.. Turn on dim lights Alexa...turn on bright lights Alexa...turn off all lights Alexa...turn on very dim lights Alexa...turn on red lights Alexa...turn red deck lights The only "All lights" defined is the ISY program I wrote. Alexa doesn't know I have any lights. Everything is just a device. I don't want Alexa trying to do any AI guessing crap. Having said that, Alexa will ask you about each and every device, at some time, whether it is connected to a light. Say "No"

Did you get the PIN installed into your ecobee account successfully?

if you are running windows, lower your screen magnification temporarily until you are done using the admin console. Admin console is based on some older monitor parameters that haven't progressed with the times, apparently. Sent from my SM-G781W using Tapatalk

How many do you need? I have an extra 20 units I used for a radial wheel style ceiling animations suing 10 strips per tent pole and two tent poles for my son's wedding in our side yard. Some controllers are still in new boxes. I only see myself using about 8-10 units maximum and the rest sit in a box now. PM me if you are interested. You would have to wire the connectors to the terminals for the LED strips and also PS connector. These are a little more clumsy than some of the newer MagicHome units but are 5 channels controllers. I have only ever used them for 4 channels, being R,G,B, and WW in the strips. I have connectors, LED strips, controllers and power supplies, along with 18 x 7W RGBWW bulbs that don't support native CW. I found newer units that are 9W and some 11W with RGB WW/CW now. In case it wasn't mentioned, the 5m strips commonly available, have a connector on each end and can be cut every 3-4" for two connectable ends on shorter lengths.

This was reported by a few of us and UDI is fixing it. Just enter the notifications and return to the program pulldown. it recreates the name loss each a/c reboot. Sent from my SM-G781W using Tapatalk

I use the control box shown in the photos I posted above. It was the cheapest one I found years ago, at about $6 each. My suggestion is to look for ones with a builtin barrel socket for the 12v ps. That will save you wiring the 12v ps, at least. Some come with led strip connectors built in. I had to wire my own and found some brands of strips needed the rbg wires scrambled. They are not all the same. Not a big deal to swap 2 or 3 wires though. Metal tracks to hold the strips are nice. I never used any, just silicone two screw clamps every 6 to 10 inches. I just wired up another strip in my apparent widow, about 70 inches long. I am running it off a 12v 1.0 ampere adapter just fine. Sent from my SM-G781W using Tapatalk

I use supernight RGBW strips but almost any brand will do. https://www.amazon.ca/s?k=supernight+RGBW+LED+strips&crid=21DO2VWRGULQF&sprefix=supernight+rgbw+led+strips%2Caps%2C87&ref=nb_sb_noss The most important part is the controller box that determines the interface to your ISY. I use the MagicHome protocol and there are a few ways to support the WiFi protocol from ISY. I have written my own software that runs on a RPi, or inside my polisy and uses NRs to command it. There is also a NS in development. I am not sure how far it got. Other brand names the MagicHome protocol goes by are LEDenet, FluxNet, and MagicLight, Magichome. Many cheap RGBW or RGBCW bulbs can be found that use the same protocol. There are many free apps that can operate these bulbs/strip in the google Playstore. I have some 9W RGBCW bulbs that are also BT compatible and come with a small remote. RGBCW bulbs can do WW and CW from 2200K to 7000K, plus colours. RGBW strips usually only have the 4 LED colours so IMHO the 3000k-3600K white LED is about the best for all around lighting. As far as native Insteon controllers, there are none. Strips typically come in 5m = 16.3' lengths and spec a 12v 5 ampere power supply. I have run mine on a 3 ampere wallwart style, no problem and even a 1 or 2 ampere supply would likely do it by my measurements I published here years ago. Look for older posts where you may find long threads about the hardware with photos. The strips + controller + power supply should cost no more than about $40 total. However the mounting may cost more. This is one example of a mounting hardware. https://www.amazon.ca/VIPMOON-Mounting-Brackets-Non-Waterproof-Included/dp/B072N2C1YL/ref=sr_1_7?crid=3HO86CKQW25AU&keywords=LED+strip+mounting&qid=1659696337&sprefix=led+strip+mounting%2Caps%2C122&sr=8-7 If you use the sticky backed strips, after the first usage they heat up and will fall off when the adhesive gets warm. For kitchen usage I recommend you do not get the bare strips. Get the silicone tube encased units (IP67). You will appreciate it when you try to wipe off kitchen grease and films later.

I have been finding more Alexa confusion lately, when I use the same device name with and without an adjective descriptor. Alexa started asking which fan, or other device, I mean when asked for the basic device to operate. This seems much more frequent lately. Perhaps I have started over from scratch and Alexa has to learn my devices again, first. This was one of the main reasons I have about five google home speakers sitting in boxes now. Of course I don't want any AI garbage applied to my HA voice controls either. That can cost me money, and/ or be dangerous at times when assumptions are made Sent from my SM-G781W using Tapatalk

I have never used a fan speed controller but with lights I always use the syntax. "Alexa, turn on medium fan" "Alex, turn on fan medium" "Alexa, turn on low fan" "Alexa, turn on high fan" "Alexa, turn off fan" Alexa syntax seems to understand the syntax more reliably if "Turn on" or "Turn off" is the used syntax. That syntax, used for every device i have, including multiple levels, scenes, RGBCW bulbs and strips with many colours, is so much easier for others to remember.

I am with Virgin Mobile in Canada, a subsidiary of Bell Mobility (100% owned) , using the same networks and towers, and possibly the same software and servers? I have the same problem occasionally. I get text messages hours later, as well as get the same text messages days later after I deleted them. This has been going on for years now and getting worse. I thought it was just my lack of noticing the messages coming in but it has been happening too often lately for messages labeled as new, (in bold) but the ISY text tells me it was sent 2 days earlier. IOW: I believe this may be a Bell Canada SMS server problem with messages not being cleared properly and/or handled properly (getting lost).

We are having problems with SMS messaging lately and it seems to be getting worse over time. After deleting messages from my IoP they sometimes pop back up 3,4 days later ad new messages. For years, now I have noticed the same thing happening g with old messages, when they show up gain, along with actual new messages. I always figured it was my android os but now, not so sure. Sent from my SM-G781W using Tapatalk

Yes. IIRC ISY and polisy have a wide range of tolerances for power supply, although 5V sounds a little low.

Just my own NRbridge that translates NR commands to MagicHome RGBW bulb and led strip signals. That includes a keepalive thread that polls bulbs every few minutes each. Only running about 8 devices now. Previously (old home) about 50 devices without problem. New router and AP for WiFi delivery since move. Installed inside polisy again also. Polisy hard wired to router. Sent from my SM-G781W using Tapatalk

I believe this may be centered around my software also running on polisy. Previously, it seemed to be a problem running under polisy O/S and I moved it back to an RPi again where it has ran without problem for a few years. I suspect it could be related to a different python 3 implementation under freeBSD, and/or a threaded keepalive task running. I need to implement a logging system to record operation successes and failures, if any, so that I can zoom in on this. Hiccoughs have been very rare...maybe once every few months. I do have a SiLabs ZWave stick plugged into polisy, unused at this time, also. WE do seem to get a lot of power blinks, early in the mornings here, so I may watch those times more closely. Just as an aside my lat/long produces a sunrise about 20 minutes later than actual. However I am 26 floors up and that may be the reason. No the earth isn't flat!

No. RPi is gone, PG2 is gone, IoP programs started fresh, only a few devices connected, NRbridge software moved from RPi to polisy and using :localhost URL via NRs, new lat/long, new ISP. This happened after a power blink that morning. Seems to be a polisy power up sequence problem...maybe.

Yeah, but for the second time now I am contemplating going back to ISY994. Too many bugs and lockups on IoP. Had another one last night where my NRbridge firmware driving my MagicHome lights would not operate some RGBW strings after a power blink. Still not up quite to par with ISY994 and a RPi, unfortunately, at least the way I use it.

Too many "irons in the fire"?

May be geek vs. user advice.

What are you using to bridge ISY to it? NS, NR?

Getting the "busy text box" in your admin console?

All Insteon devices have a factory reset method. They are complex CPU based devices and can get goofy at times. Always, always factory reset new Insteon devices before linking them into ISY to avoid many hidden problems. They come out of the factory in many unknown states.

Most of the time you have to at least reload the admin console. Most of the setup is a load with boot-up thing. Admin console is not dynamic in many cases.

Mine did a similar thing but I can't remember what I had to do. I did have to reinstall the PIN key into the ecobee website setup. The first one took OK and then failed right after for some reason. With mine I deleted PG2 ecobee NS as I moved. New stat and new PG3 install. Not sure if that made any difference. Check the ecobee NS logs. IIRC I had several PIN rejected lines inside the log.

If you have good backups (IoP and PG3) , you could factory reset your polisy and re-install. Open a ticket with UDI. They may have some techniques to sniff your password. Your port address may have changed or be forgotten.