Brian H

Do you have a firewall and if you do. What program is it?

Did you also get a new 2412S PLM with the ISY99i? The HL2 special one is known to give problems with anything but with HL2.

Only reason I asked was; some have been reported to go into firestorms; in automation forums. Not just in Insteon Installations. I know my Smarthome Dryer Outlet one was touchy and ACT CR134 was getting touchy also. My XTB-IIR seems to be stable and not a problem with Insteon signals. I have also seen the Leviton HCA02 being reported as a problem with the X10 CM15A Controller.

Wow what a X10 signal firestorm as shown in your log. Are any of the firestorm X10 addresses a valid one in your system? Do you have any X10 Repeaters between the phases, in your setup? If so what brand and model.

It is explained in the ISY99 Users Guide recently released. Page 42 The Status is of an IF condition in the program. Currently True or False. http://www.universal-devices.com/docs/i ... rguide.pdf The RemoteLinc's I have in use. Have all the devices they control in their Link Tables. My ISY99i also knows the links to each button. As I used it to add and subtract device from the individual buttons. When I use the All On or All Off button. All the devices from the individual buttons follow. If the device that did not go off was not in the RemoteLincs Link Table. It will not go off. I believe that a Group Command is used for Scenes and a Direct Command to individual modules from the console. You may have a communications problem and the duplicate line gives you a better shot on the message getting there. Have you tried a Scene Test for the problem scenes? Maybe the Event Viewer in level 3 may also show some useful data for the problem area. Are there any X10 commands mixed into the scenes in question? I know I added two second waits in my mixed scenes. To allow my XTB-IIR Repeater coupler to send X10 and not step on Insteon Commands.

Have you done any of the built in diagnostic tests to the problem lights? Maybe a scene test for the garage lights may give you a clue. Or with Event Viewer in Level 3 and a query to the lights. The log file may also show some data. It sounds like a communications problem and I have also had devices show as ON when they missed the commands. I believe a scene command does not follow up with a status check of each module in the scene. So if an ON was sent by the ISY-99i; the My Lighting Screen will show On; while the module stayed off. A Query to the Scene in question or to My Lighting would then correct the display to what each module state was.

It is a default and mine looks like the one Mark has. I believe it is not 100% needed as I deleted mine in error once. The system still was fine. I later readded it manually.

Thank you for the detailed manual. It is a great help in my questions as is the wiki.

In the configuration tab. Isn't the check box's for Catchup Schedules at restart and Missed Scheduled Grace Period are for?

I agree that for the Door and Window Sensor. A TriggerLinc and magnetic switch maybe better for some installations. I believe the I/OLinc kit may have been released before the TriggerLinc was being sold. I did get the Flood Stop Sensor [part of the now on hold I/OLinc Flood Detector Kit] to work with my kit. Had to add a few electronic parts to get the proper on off sense with water. I also had to use the +5 Volt output from the I/OLinc to do what I wanted. I found a problem with the Proximity Switch Kit and posted my findings. So far; one month now; Smarthome still has not updated the on line Quick Start Guide to fix the hung On relay problem.

If you have not looked at the I/OLinc data on the wiki. http://wiki.smarthome.com/index.php?tit ... 27s_Manual Many do use the sensor input for varied tasks. Smarthome sells many of their I/OLinc kits that use the Sensor Input to trigger an event or toggle modules linked to it. Rain Sensor, Remote Door Strike, Telephone Ringing Detector to name a few.

I don't think the exact revision where the change was reported. I know my Rev 2.0 and 2.1 are the old style without an Air Gap switch and are reset in the earlier method. Did you know the Rev 5.0 and above now have a Load Sensing connection and the Load can be isolated from the Line? It is now rated at 15 amps also. Yes the full manual looks like it has not been updated. Maybe the wiki pages will have more data. New Guick Guide for Rev 5.0: http://www.smarthome.com/manuals/2476sqs.pdf http://wiki.smarthome.com/index.php?title=2476S_Manual

Yes the older SLR and Icons had no Air Gap Switch and the alternate reset was used. The new units now have the Air Gap Switch. So your older ones are normal.

That sensor relies on the conductance of the water it is detecting. It is not a dry closure like a switch contact and maybe hundreds of ohms when wet. That can lead to all kinds of problems; if the TriggerLinc needs a good low resistance closure to be reliable. I did read correctly. You only are using the sensor and not the whole Moisture meter Board that has added electronic parts to interface with the moisture sensor. Smarthome is using a similar sensor in their Flood Detect Kit with an I/OLinc and some are having problems with theirs. I measured my sensor wet [looks bigger than the one you have and may have more surface area] and it measures eight hundreds ohms when wet with my water that corrodes copper pipes from the inside. Just found their Flood Detector Kit is marked as "Unavailable while improvements and enhancements are added." IMHO the sensor will be different in the updated kit. Side note. My I/OLinc's sensor LED can be partially on with a resistive load but not be pulled low enough to trigger the event. My tests show 1000 Ohms where a I/OLInc is marginally triggered.

There is a users manual for the I/OLinc on Smarthome's wiki. http://wiki.smarthome.com/index.php?tit ... %27s_Guide No sure if it will assist you in understanding the I/OLinc.

The sensing current is always there. The Local Sensing on and off only tells the firmware to ignore or process the sensed changes. X10 has similar or even worse current on theirs. Some users have wired a resistor across the load to squelch the current. The older X10 fix is a 4 watt standard night light bulb on the load. You are not alone with the LED type lights. I have tested a few brands myself and they all tend to glow when off.

Salad Core sounds more like a 2414S PLC than a 2412S PLM. They are 100% different from each other. No the 2412S and 2414S/U can not have their firmware flashed by end users. The Salad Core is a program loaded into the PLCs programming memory.

Some of the PLMs had their cables inside the box's inside cushions for the module and they where black. Besides the Blue ones packed externally.

I would not plug the PLM into the power until the ISY99i is connected to it first and using the correct cable. The Black one as mentioned is not the correct one and is just part of a standalone PLMs included parts.

Maybe time to call Smarthome and get two replacements for the battery killers. Sounds like they are not going into suspend mode and draining the batteries to fast.

Thanks for the added tests and results.

IM; Thanks for the tests and information. It will be a great help to many.

On the sales pages for the switches and modules. You will find links to the complete users manuals. They are much better than the one sheet quick guides. The factory reset is covered in those manuals. I believe the latest SwitchLinc Relays may now have a power disconnect switch on the set tab. Only the dimmer types use to have them. So the procedure maybe different if you have the newer Relay types.

Well if no other modules are giving you any problems. It does sound like the Icon has gone bad.

You may also want to try. Unplugging it and then waiting for 30 seconds then plug it back in. Sometimes a short power glitch can lock up a module. I have had to power cycle a few of mine from time to time.