Everything posted by Brian H
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ApplianceLinc V2 2456S3 dead, repair advice please?
I took another look and the Licon brand was in my 4.? versions. If it is a 4.? with the cap parallel to the board. You should sill be able to use the original sized 470mfd/35V. I had one of the 30 volt Zener diodes short. Under the cap. I got lucky and replaced it and the cap for good measure. Since it is around a 30 volt supply. The 35 volt cap should be fine. Depending on size a 50 volt would also work with a larger voltage tolerance but probably a larger size. Longer or fatter depending on what you try to use.
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ApplianceLinc V2 2456S3 dead, repair advice please?
I had a few go bad myself. One was On and started to pulse on and off at about a two second cycle. Mine was a green cased NOVER brand cap. It is not a high frequency supply. It is a half wave circuit. 30 cycles on the cap. Not like what was in the PLM and another few Insteon modules. I just got a good quality Panasonic 470mfd/35V designed for power supply use. Panasonic EEU-FC1V471 but any good brand should be OK. They where taller but still have room to close the top cover. This is the Icon version of the V1.4. The V4.? used the same capacitor just a 100% different design. I have used that capacitor in a V4 and my V1 modules. In the V4 it is sideways parallel to the board and has some component glue holding it. https://efundies.com/guides/insteon/hardware/paritial_schematic_of_insteon_icon_on-off_module/icon_on_off_schematic.png
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Insteon acquired and servers coming back up
In the real early days of Insteon. We saw a list of other vendors wanting to use the Insteon Technology. It quietly vanished and big name players chose Zwave instead. Hope history doesn't repeat itself.
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Insteon acquired and servers coming back up
That is too bad. Same old numbskulls who took years to even find out they where using the wrong type memory in a PLM.
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Polisy and I/O Linc 2450.
You may have a power line issue. Any new devices like a cell phone charger or any other electronic devices? Some are known signal suckers or power line noise makers? Unplugging a device and seeing if things chance is one test. A deteriorating presently installed device could also be a factor.
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insteon replacement for international users
The PLM is 120VAC 60CY only. Are you using the neutral and one of the hot wires or a 220 to 120 adapter. The only other PLM problem I have seen mentioned by the now gone Smarthome. Was some serial port interface chips where being damaged. I know at V2.3 a more static tolerant chip was used and at 2.4 they added a protective network on the two serial port signals to the outside world.
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What does the crystal ball say
The original 2242-222 HUB and the presently sold before the collapse 2245-222 HUB II. Are completely different animals. The 2242-222 has two boards in it and I have seen a photo where the Ethernet board was replaced with a serial port board. No added data posted here. The later 2245-222 HUB II is one board with all the functions. I have seen someone here. With an external serial board with wires connected to the inside board. I have seen no connection diagrams but the original poster may have more data for you. I have seen no information on the 2243-222 Apple Enabled HUB. Other than it looks the same as a 2245-222 internally.
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What does the crystal ball say
I would not count on any PLM in the near future. Even is someone gets the patents and manufacturing rights. With the world wide parts shortages. I have seen some common parts on the US vendor sites. With a 3/4 to one year lead time.
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Cant Access Admin Console
Are you using the ISY Launcher program? It picks the correct information to access the ISY994i and no longer need a different start program with the proper data for each version.
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Polisy and X-10
You may want to plug the module into the same outlet as the PLM. It could be possible you have a new signal sucker or power line noise maker. That is effecting the X10 signal to the chime module. The power line receiver in the chime module may have gone bad and it would still ding-dong on powering up, Try rotating the House and Unit Code wheels to clean them. We have seen some modules with age. Get intermittent and actually be on a different address than the wheels say they are set to.
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2 Unrelated devices controlling each other without any linking
As pointed out. We have seen brand new modules with test links not removed before being sold. Both the ISY controller and PLM have a maximum link database size. PRO adds a larger link size to the ISY controller and the 2413S PLM is ~1000 links.
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cannot downgrade firmware from 5.3.0 back to 5.0.16
Yes since the ZWave Security was added for the 500 series boards and is not for the 300 series ZWave boards. I take it you saw the 300 series 5.0.16C thread where it can be found. https://forum.universal-devices.com/topic/27669-5016c-isy994-last-version-to-support-z-wave-300-series/
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Siren Configuration
Little more information. In the Scene I have it set to Siren Trigger Home, Duration 6 seconds, Delay Immediate and Chime Mode.
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Siren Configuration
I am using that module in a scene and you may find three places to set parameters. The listing in the Administrative Console did not set what I wanted. In its listing in the scene list where I added it. It also did not seem to set what I wanted. When I highlighted the scene name it self in the Administrative Console. I was able to get it working the way I wanted it to work. One thing that may not be too well known. That module and the earlier Alert Module where the ones Smartlabs did not provide proper or any data on how it was to be handled. So it was reverse engineered by the folks at UDI and possibly may not function exactly as the manual says it should work.
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Difference between Insteon 2477S and 2477SR ?
Can't say about the 2477S but I know my 2635-222R On/Off Module was a refurbished 2635-222 and had a 30 day DOA exchange warranty from the now gone Smarthome.
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Migrating PLM from 2413S to 2448A7
From what I have seen. In my ISY994i. Restore Modem (PLM) does a software reset command of the attached PLM. Then writes the links into it and changes the old PLM 6 digit ID to the new 6 digit ID in all the modules.
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Insteon Smarthome appliance module - it clicks but does not turn off
The EMI SH21115AS is a 2 pole relay and the EZ SH1115A is a one pole relay. Though both pins for each function are tied together inside the original relay. The rating maybe the same as both. As the pin for each function are tied together on the board. So with the EZ SH21115AS both internal relays contact sets are in parallel.
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Insteon Smarthome appliance module - it clicks but does not turn off
Thank you for the link. I will give it a look.
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Insteon Smarthome appliance module - it clicks but does not turn off
I found some information on the relay you mentioned. It was a Goodsky product and as you mentioned 1/2 the power rating as the EZ. I have not seen a specification sheet on it yet but will keep looking.
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Insteon Smarthome appliance module - it clicks but does not turn off
The relay is a Goodsky EZ-SH-1115A. I have seen a few Ebay listing selling the relay but didn't check the status too closely. Some where used removed and tested. https://www.goodsky.com.tw/en/relays/general-purpose-relay/67-ez-relay
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Insteon Smarthome appliance module - it clicks but does not turn off
Yes that is the 120VAC coil relay used in the V1 2456S3 units. Near the Red output wire on the board. You will see the two open capacitor mounting pads. In Version 1.3 they where removed because they sometimes shorted and kept the load on. I have had a few of the larger 470uF/35V caps fail. In mine it pulsed on and off at about a one second cycle. Replacement fixed the cycling. If it is clicking I would think stillwater's though on a stuck contact maybe what is happening. Here is some information on the module. It is an Icon but the differences are no pass through outlet on the front and a green or amber LED. https://efundies.com/guides/. The what is inside an Icon module pages show the information. The partial schematic of an Icon Module shows the small P160J coupler and how it turns the 120VAC relay on and off. Yes the +5 volt logic voltage is connected directly to the 120VAC Line input. All the voltages are set with electronics referencing to the Neutral.
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Insteon Smarthome appliance module - it clicks but does not turn off
You could also measure the resistance between the narrower input pin and the narrower output jack. When unplugged. It should be a fairly high resistance. I measured around 250,000 Ohms in a version 1 and 330,000 Ohms in a version 4. If it is very low that would also show it has a welded contact.
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ISY994 dying - what steps to take moving to Polisy?
It would be best to reset all the modules. If not it can lead to thing like missing or half links still in the modules.
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Insteon Smarthome appliance module - it clicks but does not turn off
You may want to look at the model and revision number. If it is a 2456S3 or 2856S3 Icon there are two major revisions. The original revision 1 models used a GOODSKY EZ-SH-1115A 120VAC coil relay and was in a white colored case. It did has a set of capacitors across the contacts to protect them but they where cut out at V1.3 on the 2456S3 and V1.4 on the 2856S3 Icon . Since they could short and keep the load on but they would smoke and you would have seen the smoke. The 24VDC coil relay is in the revision 4 models. They also have a snubber network across the relay contacts but I have not seen any reports of them shorting. Removing the 2.7 OHM R2 would disconnect it. Though it would also probably overheat if the capacitors failed. Both revision 1 and 4 have a local control sensing feature. That could be triggered by some inductive loads but if it just recently started that may not be an issue. You would probably hear the relay double click in the case.
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Time zone changed again.
The ISY994i has a large voltage input specification. 5 volts to 30 volts, 2mm barrel + center pin; older manual said minimum 300mA I would just be sure the polarity is correct + to center pin and correct barrel size to fit the jack. My first ones where 5 volts 500mA or 1 Amp. I have had a few over the years go bad. I see the presently sold ones are 12 volts 1 Amp. When mine went bad. The ISY994i was semi stable until I tried a reboot. It would start up and when the LED's started it shut down and started the whole sequence again.