Brian H

From your tests. It does appear it has failed. 6-8 weeks is an unbelievably short time for a new unit to just fail. 2.1 was supposed to be the fixed power supply version. Oh well! I don't have much faith in Smartlabs's or Smarthome's Engineers and QC department to get things right anymore. I bought a few 2635-222R refurbished On/Off modules. They claim that they are tested 100%. One had no screws in the PCB and it was floating loose in the case. Another one the Green part of the LED does not work. Only the Red and unused Blue parts worked.

You did unplug the PLM and power down the ISY Interface. Then plug in the PLM and wait for it to totally initialize. Then power up the ISY Interface. The ISY Interface only checks for a PLM at boot up or reboot.

The present manual was published 09/18/2015. The manual I linked you to on the Smarthome Forums. Was an earlier one that was for modules before the flow chart was in its firmware. Yours didn't have the flow chart in its firmware. As far as I could tell from your symptoms. Neither do mine have the flow chart in their firmware. So they will never go into the second slow flashing green state. If you have a moment. Maybe you can post the firmware version reported in the Administrative Console. The data on the white sticker on the back would also allow others to maybe chime in with their versions findings.

Unfortunately some Insteon modules get out of production with test links in them. So factory resetting all new modules is done by many of us routinely. I am still trying to figure out. How you got a brand new 2457D2 Lamplinc that did not follow the flow chart.

I also saw a post that they did reverse their position.

Phillips recently changed the ability of third party devices working with HUE. Not sure if this will impact what is being done by the members here. http://www.extremetech.com/electronics/219450-philips-updates-hue-introduces-lightbulb-drm

I have recently seen reports of the modified sine wave UPS units. Causing big issues with the newer computers with Active Power Factor Correction power supplies. Like instantly shutting down when going into battery backup on a power loss.

If the 200mA supply was close to its rating. There is a possibility it momentarily dropped out as the UPS switched to battery. The UPS may have a stepped modified sine wave output also. That could have played into the observations you had.

Over the last few weeks. I have received a few exclusive for email registered customer sales offers. Yesterday my luck was not too good. Ordered a few of the refurbished On/Off module at $39.99 and the Alert Module. Last night I found a limited time 20% off email for two or more of the new On Off Modules. 20% off the 49.99 new price is $39.992 rounded down to $39.99. Of course the order was processed and on its way. When I read the email offer. Refurbished don't have the I am not happy 30 day return privilege. Just a 30 day DOA exchange warranty.

I suspect the old 300mA minimum current specification. Is low for a ISY994i. Especially if it has any added hardware. Like the Z-Wave board. My ISY994i and the one sold by Smarthome as an option when using a 2413S. Is 100-240 VAC 50/60 Cycles Input. 5 Volts 1 Amp output.

Maybe someday Smartlabs will release the Insteon Firmware UDI needs to make their own PLM. As I understand that is the hold up right now.

I don't believe a KPL dimmer can be used to replace a KPL relay. Using the replace with choice. One is an On Off device the other one dims. The replacement has to be close enough hardware wise for the replace with to show. I was going to use one of the new 2635-222 On Off modules in place of an old 2456S3 ApplianceLinc. The replace option was not available. As the new one was not close enough feature wise.

I didn't have any of the 2476ST models but do remember them also being reported as having no Air Gap switches. As do my early 2476S and I believe also the old Icon models.

If you had any of the old hardware 2476S Switchlincs. They do not have the Air Gap Switch. Pulling out the set button will just break it off. They also have a completely different Factory Reset procedure. Later hardware revision 2476S module did have the Air Gap Switch.

The instruction on the support page will not show the older magnetic switch with both the Red and Green {NC or NO}. The present kit does not have the same switch in it. I looked myself for the older manual, for a friend and did not find it.

Battery devices are in a power saving mode. A query will not work. This new feature waits until the device wakes up. Like detecting a motion or door opens. Then while it is awake. Starts to write to it. If memory serves me many of them have a way for the program to keep it awake until turned back to power saving.

Thank you for the information.

Wouldn't the 2843-222 Open Closed Sensor or 2854-222 Hidden Door sensor also wake up if you open the door?

In the Tools Tab, Diagnostics. What does the Show PLM Info/Status show? Connected or safe mode? Is the PLM a 2413S and how old is it? They have a known issue with their power supply failing after two years. When you cycled the power. Make sure the PLM is powered up first and has initialized. Then power up the ISY-99i.

You can try a power tap so you can plug both the LED lights and a plug with the resistor in it. On the output of the module. As pointed out other loads like an old phone charger or a 4 watt incandescent night light bulb also works. If the LED lights have a plug with a outlet on the back. So another LED string could be added. The plug with the resistor could be used there. As long as it is not exposed to the elements.

Smarthome sells a eight button face plate and button set. For the conversion. http://www.smarthome.com/insteon-2401wh8-8-button-change-kit-for-keypadlinc-white.html

At one time they had a three way kit. One of the two had no load output and they where linked at the factory. Biggest downside was the kit was only a few bucks less than two full featured ones. If memory serves me.

X10 also had a Companion Switch. That controlled the main switch with the load control. When they started Insteon. The companion-slave method was discontinued. Now you cross link the two switches and one probably has its load wire capped off.

Sorry that model and any of the other V1 models are strictly X10. The Insteon models used the SAME basic model names. So in the beginning when both where being sold. V1 was the X10 only. V2 was the Insteon version that could could do both Insteon and X10. Example a 2001SHL was an AppliancLinc V1 and a 2456S3 is an ApplianceLinc V2. After years of no longer selling the older X10 ones. The V2 at the end of the model name was removed. The switch in the photo is just a slave switch. To control a V1 Togglelinc. That has the dimmer circuitry in it. When used in a three way switch setup. 2389_web.pdf

I have seen a Cree phone number mentioned on a lighting related forum. Though I don't have it at the moment. I have had Cree bulbs go bad. Three of of six of my 60 watt, A Shell, high CRI ones have died. All the same way. Started to occasionally pulse off and now dead. Though I can see arcing inside them. I have some older 60 watt ones where the shells fell off and started also acting like the ones above. I found the spring contacts they used to couple the LED array to the driver was arcing. Push on it with an insulated plastic tool and it went back On. Side note. The LEDs are in series and the normally running voltage on the array is 220VDC. 280VDC open