Brian H

Serial PLM Daughter Board. Parts list says 100uF/6.3 volts. This is the older 2412S Developers Manual but the Daughter Board is similar . Serial daughter Board Page 57 & 58. U3 EEPROM is now a 24FC64. No F1 0.4A fuse. Position not occupied. http://cache.insteon.com/developer/2413dev-042007-en.pdf The capacitor is on the 5 volt side of a 5 volt regulator. I measured one and I believe it has the 2.5MM pin spacing. http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Nichicon/UTT0J101MDD/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMtZ1n0r9vR22awqI6nzE%2fsTpqgrp1y9nV0%3d

The instruction on the support page will not show the older magnetic switch with both the Red and Green {NC or NO}. The present kit does not have the same switch in it. I looked myself for the older manual, for a friend and did not find it.

Battery devices are in a power saving mode. A query will not work. This new feature waits until the device wakes up. Like detecting a motion or door opens. Then while it is awake. Starts to write to it. If memory serves me many of them have a way for the program to keep it awake until turned back to power saving.

Thank you for the information.

Wouldn't the 2843-222 Open Closed Sensor or 2854-222 Hidden Door sensor also wake up if you open the door?

In the Tools Tab, Diagnostics. What does the Show PLM Info/Status show? Connected or safe mode? Is the PLM a 2413S and how old is it? They have a known issue with their power supply failing after two years. When you cycled the power. Make sure the PLM is powered up first and has initialized. Then power up the ISY-99i.

The 6.8uF 250 Volt. Is on the Line Powered DC feed to the switching supply. It will probably be fine.

You can try a power tap so you can plug both the LED lights and a plug with the resistor in it. On the output of the module. As pointed out other loads like an old phone charger or a 4 watt incandescent night light bulb also works. If the LED lights have a plug with a outlet on the back. So another LED string could be added. The plug with the resistor could be used there. As long as it is not exposed to the elements.

Smarthome sells a eight button face plate and button set. For the conversion. http://www.smarthome.com/insteon-2401wh8-8-button-change-kit-for-keypadlinc-white.html

At one time they had a three way kit. One of the two had no load output and they where linked at the factory. Biggest downside was the kit was only a few bucks less than two full featured ones. If memory serves me.

X10 also had a Companion Switch. That controlled the main switch with the load control. When they started Insteon. The companion-slave method was discontinued. Now you cross link the two switches and one probably has its load wire capped off.

Sorry that model and any of the other V1 models are strictly X10. The Insteon models used the SAME basic model names. So in the beginning when both where being sold. V1 was the X10 only. V2 was the Insteon version that could could do both Insteon and X10. Example a 2001SHL was an AppliancLinc V1 and a 2456S3 is an ApplianceLinc V2. After years of no longer selling the older X10 ones. The V2 at the end of the model name was removed. The switch in the photo is just a slave switch. To control a V1 Togglelinc. That has the dimmer circuitry in it. When used in a three way switch setup. 2389_web.pdf

I have seen a Cree phone number mentioned on a lighting related forum. Though I don't have it at the moment. I have had Cree bulbs go bad. Three of of six of my 60 watt, A Shell, high CRI ones have died. All the same way. Started to occasionally pulse off and now dead. Though I can see arcing inside them. I have some older 60 watt ones where the shells fell off and started also acting like the ones above. I found the spring contacts they used to couple the LED array to the driver was arcing. Push on it with an insulated plastic tool and it went back On. Side note. The LEDs are in series and the normally running voltage on the array is 220VDC. 280VDC open

Some of my 2476S SwitchLincs and 2876S Icons had the intermittent Tact Switch issues. Push the local paddle. Hear the tact switch click. No action on the load. Smarthome said we didn't know how to use them correctly or wired them incorrectly. Finally gave us a seven year warranty on the known hardware versions with the problem. Mine are also old enough [Hardware 2.1 firmware v.28] to not have an Air Gap Switch. Pull the set button out and it breaks off. There is a completely different Factory Reset Sequence. Mine do remember their state of On or Off at power loss. I have an original 2456D LampLinc from a early developers group kit. Firmware .20. It does not respond to an All On or All Off command. Yes the same feature they are again removing. The 2456S3 ApplainceLinc and 2856S Icon On/Off had the remember feature. Then two firmware version always Off. Then again remember state. I have found the list helpful but also have not seen much added information lately.

Glad the resistor helped.

If you are still with in the two year warranty. They should replace it. The latest hardware is supposed to have the updated power supply parts. There is a thread here on rebuilding them. If you are handy.

The relay can be set to follow the sensor input. Have you tried a Factory Reset? Will not correct the LED not lighting as it is on the Sensor terminal with a current limiting resistor but the the input to the controller chip may still work. Though the controllers pins have an internal set of diodes to protect the input. If one of those got shorted. The input will not work. You can still use the relays NC and NO functions.

All the original Insteon Devices remembered their state at power loss. So if it is On it would go back On. If it was Off it stayed Off. Well except the SocketLinc Dimmer that always powered up at 100%. Even if it was Off. Some of the 2456S3 and 2856S models. Do always stay Off even if On at power loss. Earlier and later revisions still remember their state at power loss.

This is the first report I have seen on the Sensor not working. Since you have a multimeter. There should be +5 volts on the Sensor S terminal to the GND terminal. The voltage is through the LED and some pull up resistors. The Sensor Input is designed for a dry contact to pull it down to GND. It is possible a voltage higher than 5 volts was put into it and damaged the circuitry. I believe it can tolerate an external voltage of 5 volts or less on the Sensor Input to GND.

Good to know. Thank you for the information.

If the Dual band On Off module still has local control sensing or an RC snubber across the relay contacts. They may glow. I should find out next Wednesday when my Dual Band On Off modules arrive. All of my 2456S3 ApplianceLincs will cause low wattage LEDs to glow. The hardware 4.? ones also have a RC snubber across the relays contacts. That put a small current on the output when off.

I had a chance to do a few tests. 35 LED String. 2456S3 Hardware 4.1 and 1.3 Both a 56K and 33K worked. 2856D2B Hardware 4.3 Both a 56K and 33K worked. 2457D2R Hardware R3.4 Both a 56K and 33k worked. So the choice of resistor is not overly critical.

Small incandescent light bulb will also work. 33000 {33K} resistor should be fine. The wattage at the 120 volts when On is .43 watts. So a .5 Watt would work. I prefer a safety margin and say a 1 watt is best. Though I know many users with the .5 watt one and no issues. On the X10 forums. We frequently use 33K to 47K values. I tried a single 35 LED light string, Hardware 4.1 2456S3 ApplianceLinc and a 56K resistor. It kept the LEDs Off.

Some of the Simplehomenet modules are also built on the base 2413 PLM board. With their custom Daughter Boards

Well I got an email this morning. Shipped yesterday. Now that I think of it. Maybe the use of PayPal to pay for the order. Added processing time.