Geddy

Bummer. Was going to snag these on sale. Guess I should find the lights first and get something that would work. We keep going back and forth over being able to operate individually or all or nothing. Thanks for checking. Sent from my Phone using Tapatalk

Does the 2475DA1 (Insteon Remote Control In-Line Dimmer Switch) run LED Recessed lights like this - https://www.lowes.com/pd/Juno-White-LED-Remodel-And-New-Construction-Recessed-Light-Kit-Fits-Opening-6-in/1000330977 The description on the Insteon page says: This dimmer controls incandescent bulbs. If you need to control a fluorescent light fixture or an appliance, try the In-LineLinc Relay I've recently had several lights replaced with units like this (not sure the exact brand) and are working fine with the usual on/off and dimmer switches. But looking at putting in a few in the kitchen and wanted to control them independently (at times). and wanted to see if these in-line dimmers would work for LED "cans"/puck lights like this.

Why are you replying to an admin post from last year (2018)? I would say your problem isn't really related to this post. Should have started a new thread. But, to help, I'd say you probably have multiple verbals that might be too close in sound that Alexa is picking up that that might be two devices in your system. Ways to check: On a computer go here: https://alexa.amazon.com/ Left side of screen click on "Smart Home" -> Devices - this lists all devices seen/known to Alexa. If you find there are multiple names you need to go to the ISY Portal and correct. Don't just delete/forget them on the Alexa site/page as they'll come back if you ever run discover devices again. Perhaps easiest fix is to just remove the device "Office Lights" from the ISY Portal, be sure to sync/refresh (the little circle icon at the top of the device list in the ISY Portal page). You might go back to the Alexa tab and refresh that list to see if it removed "Office Lights", if not then hit "Forget" on the right side of the device list. Then add the device back. I've found that if I have a device that I later assign a verbal name to that is too similar sounding sometimes Alexa cannot tell the two apart and gives up. Good luck.

@Michel Kohanim - No errors for me (I'm using the launcher). The OP is saying if they go to the URL in a web browser they get an error. I'm saying that I've never attempted to access Admin Console via web browser, but if attempted I do get the same error they do. "This XML file does not appear to have any style information associated with it. The document tree is shown below. <root xmlns="urn:schemas-upnp-org:device-1-0"> <specVersion> <major>1</major> <minor>0</minor> </specVersion>" But, I'm not sure that's supposed to be possible. I use the portal address in the finder to launch to Admin Console so I don't have to handle port forwarding. In the past I was using DDNS, but looks like DDNS is broken or slow with TP-Link (my brand/model of router) so I just use the ISY Portal URL to admin console for launcher (as well as mobilink direct connect). All good for me. Was tying to help op by saying the URL should be used in the launcher/finder to load Admin Console.

Can you use the ISY finder to launch Admin Console and log in remotely that way? Why try to use a web? I've never done that so can't help if it had worked that way, but I use the ISY finder then use the URL and log in with the portal login information. Otherwise, you need to use port forwarding and can then remote in directly to the home network and use the ISY login. Finder: I get the same error that you get when you try to access the URL using the ISY Portal address so I'm thinking that it isn't currently possible. Not sure if it ever was because I never tried that way. I've always used the ISY Finder/Launcher.

I've used Viatalk for years (over 11) and they have a "do not disturb" function that you can turn on and have calls authenticate before they ring through (type in 3 or 4 numbers). You can then "white list" people so they aren't bothered by it. So we leave DND on and let family, friends, and some key companies on the white list so we get their calls (plus, they know our cell numbers and call/text there). Not bad for ~ $8/mo.

I've always liked to buy my own modem and routers just for the fact that I save the rental. Unless you're getting a new device from your ISP every few months or year then you've paid more in rent than you would have paid if you just bought your own devices. The ISP always tries to say "if it goes bad it's your cost to replace". Well, when I buy stuff it lasts several years. Over that time I would have paid 2 or 3 times the cost of the devices I bought in rent and. They have enough control over the data I consume over their network that I don't want them to be able to directly control the hardware I have. Over the last few years the Comcast service has had their Comcast/Xfinity open wifi for other customers piggy back on their hardware. If I'm paying you for the service I don't want you to give away any of my broadband to others. Lower my rate if you're going to also run a wifi on my connection, but no...they don't think that way. So, I say buy your own stuff and replace as needed and desired as technology changes. Good luck if you go with your own equipment. It could still be some sort of port/protocol filtering by the ISP that isn't allowing some notifications. It just depends on if you're sending multiple notifications or identical notifications on a set schedule.

If you're using ISP supplied equipment are you using a modem/router combo? If so you'll need to replace with your own modem and router or hope they'll let you put their router portion in bridge mode so you can run your own router behind their modem. I've used the Asus RT-AC68U https://www.asus.com/us/Networking/RTAC68U/ in the past. It was great, and lasted me about 6 years. I think heat finally took its toll and was starting to flake out so I replaced it this past spring. I currently use the TP-Link DECO 9M+ (mesh) and love it! I had several dead zones in the house with other routers and wanted to try Mesh. Costco had a deal on the Deco product and I've loved it. The only issue I would say is that there's not a true web UI, but the phone app seems ample enough to setup what I want/need. (https://www.costco.com/tp-link-deco-m9-plus-tri-band-wi-fi-system-with-built-in-smart-hub%2C-3-pack.product.100477095.html) You said you used other DNS lookups which ones did you try? Did you use the Google public DNS servers? The router you mentioned appears to be a business plan router. Are you on Business plan with Spectrum? I wonder if the business service tends to block the emails more than a residential service would. I would think that Business would be more open, but perhaps there's something in the service that they're blocking some sending. Modem suggestion: Arris SB8200 (https://www.arris.com/surfboard/products/cable-modems/sb8200/) Router will depend on what you need beyond the ISY side of things. If you need sped look at the higher end gaming routers, if you need coverage look at mesh options, if you just need simple ASUS and TP-Link are good options compared to what most would push in Netgear, D-Link, and Linksys.

Holy crap! 148 devices? Okay...here's something to point out, and something I ran up against with my in-laws moving to rural Atlanta area...some ISP supplied modem/router will limit the quantity of connected devices. Sure, you can get in and update that, but sometimes you've got to get the provider to help lift the limit. It could really become an issue for people adding wifi plugs, switches, and bulbs if they're limited to DHCP connected devices. Yes, most of us here will say "buy your own router", and we are probably technically proficient enough to do that with little thought. But, some that want some simple remote control for devices while on the other side of the house or other side of town the customer will go the easy route and just buy a wifi plug that says "no hub needed" and "works with Amazon/Google". Only to eventually have an issue with number of connected devices and then risk having kids or grandkids crying when the wifi doesn't work. (believe me...1st hand experience!) Interesting topic and discussion for potential options, but as most have said existing equipment will continue to work so if we're invested in this equipment let's keep going with the way we've been going. Let's hope that if there are issues for the company that provides these devices that either another company picks up the product line and continues to run the production lines and able to provide the community these options. The future is unknown. Why spend time worrying about it if you're already invested in this ecosystem? If it works...use it. If it works for what you want it to do then enjoy the satisfaction of the joy it brings you. I'm more worried about these fly by night outfits that are supplying low cost wifi only devices. And while I'm not smart enough to really concern myself with the potential security flaw with these devices I'm more worried about durability. I've had a wifi LED lightbulb for almost 3 years that failed last month. What sucks is it was a $30 bulb at the time, and now the company isn't producing bulbs. So now if I want another in that lamp I have to buy a different brand, have a different app on my phones/tablets. Instead I'll just buy another Insteon outlet to be able to include that lamp in the ISY now. I think the real question should be - do you want a single supplier for home "automation" or do you want a bunch of random apps for each time you buy wifi only switches, plugs, or bulbs and then you have to remember which app to turn on the lamp next to your bed. Home Automation is a process, not simply just being able to turn things on/off.

Just a random observance...is the checkbox for "use default" checked. I noticed if that is checked you can't edit the address information. But if you've previously edited it then it should be available to edit again. Perhaps something triggered the checkbox to be marked and isn't allowing you to enter your own information.

+1 for the EATON product. I had one installed last year. Also got the double pole 50 amp circuit breaker as part of it. Having lived in the house almost 20 years I never really thought about whole home protection, but feel better now that we have that with the extra equipment we have in the house. We still protect for spot of connection for the expensive stuff (entertainment system and computers).

Thanks again all. Got it working the way I want with the suggestion by @lilyoyo1. As for the physics of it and why have it on...because it's in a bedroom, and even though it might not "cool" the room it greatly increases the comfort level of the room when you enter it during the day and at night to go to sleep. So that's the reason to run fans. You must not live in a hot (and humid) location or else you would run ceiling fans all the time too.

Thanks for the replies.... I figured it might be something like that. I actually went another route of disabling the primary program all together. Created a second program to call on the "IF" of the primary program with a "wait 1 hour" in the trigger. Trigger program: BR-Fan-Trigger - [ID 0042][Parent 003C] If From Sunrise + 1 hour To Sunset + 1 hour (same day) And Status 'Bedroom / BR Linc - Motor' is Off Then Wait 1 hour Run Program 'BR-Fan-Summer' (If) Else - No Actions - (To add one, press 'Action') Hopefully this will check hourly, but might have to add repeat, but I'm not 100% comfortable with that command. Would this trigger again during the day if the fan is off and the time is between the schedule? Temp change isn't overly important. If it's over 90 outside it won't fall below 90 for quite a while. But the weather module should poll hourly anyway so I'm fine with it being off for an hour. It's rare that it would need to be off anyway, but just in case it does get turned off I just wanted a way to turn it back on to try to help keep the room more comfortable. Thanks for the replies and help!

UI/Firmware 4.7.3 Products: Fanlink, 6 button keypad, and Weather module I would like help in fixing a program that I thought worked, but found a flaw that I need to fix... Situation: A bedroom gets a lot of daytime sun and runs warm. It has a ceiling fan in it that I would like to turn run on high when the outside temp exceeds 90. We usually leave it on during the summer, but I have found it to be off and it's just too warm in there late in the day for it to be off. Current program: (works for desired response) BR Fan-Summer - [ID 003D][Parent 003C] If From 10:35:00AM To 7:45:00PM (same day) And Module 'Climate' Temperature > 90 °F And ( Status 'Bedroom / BR Linc - Motor' is Off Or Status 'Bedroom / BR Linc - Motor' is Low ) Then Set 'Bedroom / BR Linc - Motor' High Else - No Actions - (To add one, press 'Action') PROBLEM: If the program is triggered on, but I need to turn the fan off for any reason it won't turn off and stay off. I had to go into mobilink to disable the program to get the fan to stay off. Even though I was turning it off at the keypad (switch). Keypad has "a" = high, "b" = medium, and "c" = low and toggle on/off as the "on/off" control the light on the fan. My hope is to be able to control this with only one program, but perhaps it has to be a two step process. It's rare to really have to turn the fan off, but it is something that I find that it's not easy to do if I'm not the one trying to turn it off. Nobody else in my family has the app or admin console to be able to disable the program. Is there a simple option to add to this to make it possible to turn the fan off, but then maybe an hour later to re-trigger the program? Thanks!

If you're using Gmail make sure you've set up and using an app specific password if you're using two-factor authentication. Also, check that your from actually includes an email. It might fail some server relay functions. First-Name Last-Name:Email-address (don't forget the colon between last-name and email!!!) I actually added " - ISY" following my last name so I can create filters on the send and receive side. I've always used Gmail with my ISY to send my notifications and get every single one I test within seconds of the trigger. I send from Gmail and receive at Outlook. Of course sending from free email services can always change, but I've found it to be reliable and easy once setup. I used to try to send notifications from another system from a hosted personal domain I managed. However, the host (i.e. godaddy or bluehost) was always changing something in the server filters to block automated and timed messages. It never failed if they found a pattern they would seem to block them from going out. That was a lot more frustrating then the ease of using Google's SMTP setup.

Great! Looks like you went with the status route rather than "switched" route. I had that problem with lights that I wanted to get notifications from even if they were turned on/off by program/echo command/mobile app rather than only when physically switched on at the source. Perhaps thermostats work the same way, and the switched was looking for a power or cycle change. You might be able to have it email you based on variables in the email too so you could have this email when turned on and off. One of my notifications is formatted this way: At ${sys.time12} ${sys.node.#.name} turned ${alert.control} Edit: Variables found in WIKI: https://wiki.universal-devices.com/index.php?title=ISY-994i_Series:EMail_and_Networking_Substitution_Variables I have a program that calls for when items turn on/off an email gets sent. --------(program edited for brief posting)-------- Email-On or Off - If Status 'Play Room' is On Or Status 'Play Room' is Off Then Send Notification to 'Email' content 'Light On-Off' Else - No Actions - (To add one, press 'Action') ----------------------- So, perhaps if your program was On -or- Off you could have it email you depending on the status of the on/off mode. I have a folder in the programs tab just for email notifications to keep then separate from operational programs. Glad you got it to work as you wanted!

Also want to make sure you've set up an email correctly. Even though you said you tested it and got the test email you've got to actually setup the email that you're calling for in the program. Configurations -> Emails/Notifications -> Customizations My email when an outside light comes on: Email-Front-ON - [ID 0005][Parent 0010] If Status 'Front Door' is On Then Send Notification to 'Email' content 'Light On' Else - No Actions - (To add one, press 'Action') Then the custom notification is:

Be careful if you turn on two factor authentication (for Gmail)! You'll need to create an app specific password.

@larryllix, would repeat really go first, or does it matter? @jmpnjimbob I might also suggest to add (check) "random" option for the wait line (if you're leaving it on longer than 1 minute). Depending on what you're trying to accomplish. The random will make it look as though the lights aren't on a fixed schedule (more lived in look). Again, depending on what you're trying to accomplish it might look more random to have lights on and off at different times during the day. But for the "simple and easy" way the above works fine. Welcome to ISY programming!

Paul - I'll test it, but it hasn't been a problem in the past to think it wouldn't be solid communication with the ISY. oberkc - seemed to work fine. I tested a couple of times yesterday, and it seems to work better than the way I had it. I knew the light was turned off and I didn't get any notifications about it having to be turned off by the timer. The goal is to turn off the light after 20-30 minutes (typically this is in a room that we don't spend a lot of time in so we come/go to the room, and sometimes either we'll forget to turn the light off or just not turn it off there's no reason to leave it on all day. So I want a timer to turn it off. The thing I like to know is that it turned off because of the timer rather than if it turned off manually or through app/echo interaction. So, the status seemed to make the best sense. I think the biggest thing was that I was getting notifications even though the light was turned off manually. The timer was still running and just sent a reminder even though the light was off. I think with the status it's working the way I wanted it to.

Paul - Thanks, I'll try it out. I think I had this at one point, but was still getting notifications. oberkc, I'm 100% sure I had this first and something didn't work right, but if status doesn't change getting the notification then I'll try this method. The main desire is to get confirmation (through the email notification) that the light had been turned off. I just hate leaving this light on randomly. I don't want/need notification every time it is turned off, but only if the timer triggered it to turn off. Thanks for the quick replies. If there are other methods I'm willing to try those as well.

I've tried a few searches, but cannot find the method of doing what I am attempting so wanted to ask for the best/proper way to handle this... I have a light in the a room that will get left on that I would like to turn off after 20 or 30 minutes and get a notification email that the light went off. I've had it working decently, but found that even if the light is turned off the program runs and send me an email at 20 minutes saying it turned the light off...even though it was manually turned off within 3-5 minutes of it going on. The program is currently setup like this: ------------------------------------------ Bonus Light - Off - [ID 0040][Parent 0001][Run At Startup] If Control 'Bonus' is switched On Then Wait 30 minutes Set 'Bonus' Off Send Notification to 'Primary Email' content 'Bonus Timed Off' Else Stop program 'Bonus Light - Off' ------------------------------------------ What I'm trying to accomplish is to set it to turn the light off, but only notify me if it had to be turned off by timer. If the light is manually turned off then it shouldn't be turned off by timer, and shouldn't email me. I'm guessing the "best/proper" way would be to somehow break this up into 3 programs, but I was hoping that there was a simple 1 program way to do this. Looking forward to the process. ISY firmware version 4.6.2

We haven't noticed any down time, and use Echo in 3 rooms. Other than it not hearing clear commands (thanks to a loud child or other background noise) it's worked just fine the numerous times we've used it (and trust me, during summer break it's getting a workout by wife and kid). Other than a few ISP dropped connections (due to storms) we haven't had any issues.

Thanks for the help! Also got some help from nathagt. Ended up having to go through the process again. Since iOS doesn't have "forget all devices" in the app I had to go through that process on the web access to Alexa/Echo. For my fix: Go to: https://alexa.amazon.com/spa/index.html#appliances "Forget all" turn off V3 allow things to update (I gave it about 10 minutes) re-enable V3 & link account discover items Bingo! Things were back with light bulbs, switches, and scenes like they should be. I recreated a routine in the iPhone Alexa App to test turning off a few lights with the routine option (rather than programs or scenes from ISY), and it worked as it had in V2. All seems to be working right now. It's a pain that the step of forgetting all devices when going from V2 to V3 is only available through the web access with Alexa and not on the smartphone app (at least for iOS). Thanks all for the help! -Scott

When you say "in alexa app" do you mean the smartphone app or on the computer? I found that the "delete all" or "forget all" was only available on the web connection (https://alexa.amazon.com/spa/index.html) with Echo. The latest version of the iPhone app doesn't have a "delete all" function. So, the steps of updating from V2 to V3 said to forget all devices, but didn't specifically say to use the computer side. There was mention of it later in the discussion somewhere, but never put in the wiki that was linked in a recent email about updating to V3.