paulbates

Another option is from Yolink, which has a great eISY plugin. Yolink has what's called a finger robot. You simply mount it next to your physical wall garage door opener on the wall. It mechanically presses the physical wall switch. It does not block the opener from being used normally. They also have garage door sensors so you detect open vs closed. https://shop.yosmart.com/collections/smart-garage

We'll have to wait for jimbo. In the HA case, each individual user owns the key that the HA Integration uses. In the eISY plugin case, jimbo owns it and we're behind that when we generate a pin.... which is the actual intent of the developer access. I don't think ecobee intended many individual users using dev access for individual homes. Everybody needs to standby and wait for jimbo to catch up after the weekend is over.

That's not necessarily an apples to apples comparison as there are 2 ways to integrate to HA, and one is a dead end: If you have your own Ecobee developer API key you can get similar access to the plugin, but Ecobee is no longer handing them out so no one can access it at this time. Ecobee is silent on if they start giving them out again. If you use HomeKit Device integration, The good: no Apple brand devices are required, it's HA straight to the thermostat, 100% local (no cloud or internet needed), The bad: a lot thermostat features via the Ecobee API in this plugin are not all presented in the HomeKit Integration. If you're doing more advanced things in iox programs I'd look before leaping.

Some missing info: Do you have ADT and Venstar plugins for Eisy, working? Which Venstar- Old school Insteon, Color Touch, or? I can speak to the Color Touch. Create and iox programs. This is more pseudo code but you can find the right things in the eISY interface: If Window 1 is open or Window 2 is open or. Window 3 is open (keep following the pattern, use 'or' for catching any one of them) Then Set Venstar Mode = Off The slipperier slope is do you reverse it if they close all the windows? If yes, then its a similar program, but with "and"s instead of "or"s. With "and"s, they all have to be closed. But when they close the windows it might because it's cold out and you're turning on the air. I'd start with the first program above and see how it goes. They'll figure out the system is off.

Not directly what you asked, but if you are a portal user, you can now access it remotely that way.

I had an Alexa puck I got at a Reinvent at my last house. I tried the alexa client in my Ecobee thermostat a few years ago at this house. Both had long periods where they worked reasonably well, and then go through long spells of a combination of: Said it didn't understand the exact command it did 1000 times before Said it was having problems right then and couldn't do it More irritating: Acted like it did the command, but nothing happened. WAF for automation in general was taking shots on goal over it, so I turned it off. I worked around the voice only automations by either adding a switch or adding voice free automations based on time, etc.

We'd all be guessing too, time to look at log info. I've read about the Hunches feature of Alexa plus where it tries to figure things like turning on iot devices for you. If I still used Alexa, I would find that, turn it off and see what happens

Who is your ISP? A new technology on the ISP scene is CGNAT, where they put a NAT router between your router and the internet, which renders local firewall holes ineffective. They're doing for a different reason, but the effect is the same. CGNAT is the beginning of the end of opening firewall ports to access your local devices.

Will be easier with 3 programs IMO Program 1: Fill If FillPumpSensor switches on Then Wait 10 minutes Set FillPump On Program 2: Stop If FillPumpSensor switches off Then Set FillPump Off Program 3: Deadman switch If FillPumpSensor is on (NOT switched) Then Wait XX Minutes. (You decide, see note below) Set FillPump Off Program 3 is in case the messaging to/from the iolinc is missed, it can happen. Pick a number of total minutes you think a cycle should be, maybe add 1 minute to it and assign that to XX. The first program use If Switched and the last uses If status

No. The beauty of insteon is that any n-way switch setups are programmed by the isy as a one time event. The isy and the plm can fail it be unplugged and those go right on working. However, whatever is iox programs you have that interact with insteon will no longer work... like turning on lamps or yard lights at dusk

You should post a pic example. The scenes are in the device tree and devices under them. The only thing I can think of is if the + to the left of the scene hasn't been pressed? The you can right click on the one(s) you don't want and delete

Go to the program in iox. Right click on the program's name on the left. At the bottom of the drop down is Copy, Use that

The Insteon version has 2 sounds it can make: A "ding dong", like when walking into a store, or a siren that can wake the dead.

Yep. More time planning / organizing will speed the whole thing up

Truth be told I had one I bought a couple of years ago to announce for leak sensors and sump pump depth alarm in my basement . One of the leak sensors was in a well area and the floor gets damp there... so it went off as it should but not really an emergency. I was able to move it a foot or so to still work but not false positive. But that event was not a hit with my wife as it was not a real problem and home automation took a shot on goal when its otherwise really good. I got rid of it. I had the same problem with yolink version. Too screamy. Still looking. I also don't want to keep adding things like zwave, zigbee, wifi etc to solve one problem and throw other topologies at the problem. .. and I thought about that old X10 chime that gave a nice beep ..... beep ... beep several times.