Teken

Based on everything you wrote up above the program and settings are fine. I would probably go the route of high capacity lithium 9 volt battery cells or rechargeable's. If an outlet is near by use the power saver attachment and forgo the entire battery portion. Given the latest motion sensor includes native USB power support I would probably go that route instead. Unfortunately Beta 5.XX release ETA is not known . . .

This sound more like a anti-virus / firewall related issue . . . The first thing I would do is ensure the browser is set to allow pop ups and specific add on's, websites, etc are set to allow. White list anything to do with the ISY Series Controller in both Java, Anti-Virus, and Firewall related programs and hardware appliances. 9 times out of 10 this is related to the above . . . You can also rule some of this out by simply using the secure port (HTTPS) instead of the standard unsecure (HTTP). 1. Bring up ISY Finder 2. Cancel out of the login prompt 3. In ISY Finder, click on the Add button 4. Enter the URL for ISY but this time use https instead of http 5. Cancel out and bring ISY Finder backup and this time double click on the https line

Yes, the (REX) request to exit must be tied to the alarm panel. If and when there is a fire condition the REX will force the mag lock to disengage. A manual REX button should be considered essential as a method to bypass the system should there ever be a fault in the mag lock system. A mag lock system is not intended to be the primary method to secure a door its intended as fail over. Most cities will not allow such a device to be incorporated into a residential dwelling as it increases *Risks* when a fire condition is present.

It really doesn't matter what grade of dead bolt you purchase if its attached to a paper frame . . . Coupled with the fact a large percentage of home owners have glass windows flanking either side of said dead bolt. To add insult to injury many of these same homes have an entire door made of glass. Now, you add insult to injury where you literally see the bottom handle doesn't even incorporate a lock. So the user believes throwing money at a $200+ smart dead bolt is going to do what exactly? Besides make your wallet thinner and that person living a lie in the belief they are safe? If people are remotely serious about force protection they should beef up the entire door frame, use 3-4" shear rated screws, incorporate a slide plate, and install a security out swinging security gate. All of these elements will offer you and the family the time to react and follow the next steps. The worst case it will add more effort for said criminal and they may very well move on to something easier to penetrate.

That depends entirely upon (IF) there is a budget to solve the problem(s).

Hello Johnmsch, Does the solution have to be free or is there a small budget available to complete the same?

The I/O Linc in its current form is single band - many of us have been waiting for a dual band version for more than two years.

Its lived a good life time to repair and replace . . .

Yes, when the newer dual band on-off modules came out and I found out the *Replace With* wasn't listed. That really caused a lot of hair pulling that's for sure! I had several of the Switch Linc timers too and the dual band relays also weren't listed for *Replace With*. The only advice I can share with the OP is simply add the new hardware to the system. Then, simply drag and drop that new device into the scenes that exist. Rinse and repeat the whole process for any programs in use . . . Once you have confirmed the above simply delete the older hardware device from the device tree.

Hello David, You can only use the replace with feature with a similar device. Relay for relay - Dimmer for dimmer. ========================= The highest calling in life is to serve ones country faithfully - Teach others what can be. Do what is right and not what is popular.

Since you have a Z-Wave enabled controller the world is your oyster! I would probably review the forum threads here and see what hardware meets your budget / value needs.

Kirk, For the benefit of the forum members can you state the model, hardware revision, production date, and what the ISY Series Controller indicates as the firmware in place.

You certainly need to ensure and mindful of a strong RF Insteon mesh in the home. If you expect to see positive results using the open-close sensor. I'm using the external contact for various *Proof of concept* projects and long term cold weather Arctic testing. - Smart door bell - Voltage loss detection - Water leak detection - Tilt sensor - Humidity trip point - Position sensor - Stress / Level detection

Yes, in dozens of applications . . .

Groups in the Alexa App?

My comment about the 4 tap beacon test was regarding the plugin lamp linc. I never tried the dual relay outlet to see if it timed out after four minutes. Are you saying if you initiate the beacon test from the outlet it continues to cycle with out stopping? If so that's great to hear and will test the few I have on site to see if that's the case . . .

Information Only: The Micro On/Off relay module when first (initially) powered will be placed in the on state. Once the device has completed this mini POST process the last known state recollection should remain. The operative word is *Should* there have been iterations of hardware and firmware for this device since its release. A very small percentage of users like me have seen when there is a very brief power blip. It can fool the Micro On/Off relay module into thinking its the first time power has been applied. Thus, the device comes back in the on state . . . This issue can be repro'd by short cycling the circuits (be careful) breaker which supplies power to the module. I've often considered and reflected that this strange behavior is at least one cause to the famous ALL ON event some have seen over the years. I don't know if Smartlabs has ever tested for this specific environmental fault but members should be cognoscente of such possibilities to happen. This is why its paramount any home automation integration have an eye toward safety in all aspects.

Hello Adam48, Apologies for not being precise - If you have the ISY Series Controller sending to or (receiving) any sort of data from a cloud hosted service or a local network appliance. I want you to disable / disconnect them from the (to) the controller . . . If you absolutely have no inbound / outbound connections leading to the ISY Series Controller. And (ALL) programs are disabled in the program folder would you please unplug the 2413S PLM. Power down the controller and wait about 30 seconds - insert the PLM back, wait 10 seconds, then reapply power to the controller. What are the results? Keeping in mind all program should be in a disabled state.

If you have lots of inbound network device streaming to the ISY Series Controller. A quick test is to unplug all of them and see what happens from there. Keeping in mind you need to hard reboot the controller afterwards to see. If there are no inbound calls / subscriptions being made the next step is to disable *ALL* programs in your system. Once that is done I want you to hard reboot the controller again and reply back what happens . . .

Once a restore modem has been completed any battery operated devices will need to be individually updated one by one. Once that is done you may have to do a restore device(s) which can take several hours to complete. If the pain of going through all of that is too much you can try deleting and adding back each device one at a time. Only you can determine if the investment of time is worth while or not. Regardless, we are here to help if you decide to follow what ever route . . .

Older GDO kits came with a sensor that could be wired to be N.O. vs N.C. Meaning the LED on the unit would reflect the door open (lit) vs closed (unlit). Newer GDO kits have only one contact and this always results in the I/O Linc's LED to show the reverse state. So your choices are to purchase the magnetic contact that offers the reverse behavior. Better yet purchase the correct kit which offers both N.O. & N.C. contacts.

For the benefit of the forum members can you indicate what the sticker on the back notes as the production date and hardware revision. Also, when you receive the new unit can you relay the same along with the firmware level. No problem just remember the 2412S powered the ISY Series Controller so don't use the PSU that's in use now.

No . . . But there is a Venstar Insteon compatible that has more features but don't believe its color either.

If we are talking about the same feature delay / turning off battery writes is only available in the pro version which you can update the controller to obtain said feature. If you are seeing pop up messages on the left hand side are there green 0101 listed in the device tree to the left? If so place one motion sensor into linking mode and right mouse click and select update.

Just to be clear you've reviewed the logs to confirm the outlet is turning off at 3:00 AM? If so are you sure there aren't programs associated with it? If you can't perform the two man hard reset in the interim you can delete the hardware and add it back and see if that cures the problem. Because (IF) it always turns off at 3:00 AM it has to be linked to an associated program / scene. Also, what is the load that's attached to the outlet? Have you removed the load to see if the device behaves fine vs not?