Brian H

There was a very basic test program we had in the now defunct developers group (was to test their developers group set of devices) and BusyRat gave us one in the old Insteon section of the Smarthome forums. Both only would send and receive Insteon commands to modules we had. So we could see things like dumping the link database one entry at a time and you needed the commands (hex string sent and received by the PLM) in the Insteon developer guide (now found on some sites). Used a serial port on the computer or sometimes a USB to serial converter. In my tests the BusyRat program only did the low comm port numbers and the developers one (for DockLight Scripting free evaluation version) was hard coded to a serial port ID though you could change it but not store the new com port as the DocLight Evaluation version was restricted. Though it could be modified by a plain no special features text editor and carefully reading the setup file. Can you test one maybe but it would not be too easy. Unless someone here has one they used and I don't know about it. The hardware revision on the back may give you a clue. As some improvements where made in later revisions.

As mentioned. It can get messy. Both would have their own links in their PLM and the controlled modules used by both modules. Changes by either controller would probably not be recognized by the other PLM and controller. Unless the device in question was controlled by both controllers. So both had links for the device. Any changes could lead to half and orphaned links.

We saw similar posts. When years ago UDI stopped making the ISY26 and then ISY99i for the later ISY994i.

If it is an ISY994i. There is no firmware updates for the new I3 modules. Only the Polisy and EISY have updates firmware for I3 devices.

That option is only if you have the PRO add on to the firmware. I suspect you do have it as the added features was needed by most. As it also increased the allowed links.

Micro USB is what the manual said for the the 5V supply cable end. One thing I have seen is to get the cover back on. The sensor end has to be a 90 degree connector. I have seen two forms of 90 degree connectors. One cable exits down the other up. Don't remember which fit better.

Well I have been around for many years. I don't see any Green box either.

Is it an intelligent opener? Where it has a display with things like a clock or a simple push button control. If it is a simple push button. Does it act the same way. As the button is normally off and pushing it turns it on. Is the I/OLinc set for a momentary relay on pulse or continuous?

Do you want to use 26VAC or 120VAC? To trigger the lack of power? White yellow is AC Common on the RIB and should not be the power line neutral. For the 24VAC. It should be one end of a 24VAC power transformers common connection. So white yellow has to be connected to the common power transformers terminal (it could be the buss line common but diagram not clear) and the white blue to the other end of the transformer 24VAC. That will trigger the loss of power through the relay. If you want to go 120VAC. You can then connect the white yellow to line neutral and find a 120VAC line to the white black wire on the relay. Like X-6 1 Black Line in to RIB white black, X-6 2 Neutral to RIB white yellow common. I feel it would be best to not try things until you find more information on the buss common being the 24VAC common. If 24VAC is your desired use. Got the information downloaded and will see if anything pops out. Remember to insulate the unused wires from the RIB so they do not short to anything else.

I have found a possible solution to your problem. If you wanted to know if 26VAC or 120VAC is on or off and not need to trigger on a circuits current. Functional Devices. Known for their controls for furnaces and other devices. Makes a RIBU1C. Relay In a Box module. 120VAC and 10-30VAC/VDC input module. Has both a NO (normally open) and a NC (normally closed) relay output. I tested it and it is a relay output. That should interface with a I/OLinc Sensor input. Depending on NC or NO you can get a 26V or 120VAC is on or off signal. I also tested the 120VAC input and it also worked fine on the relay outputs. A web search finds it in many places. https://www.functionaldevices.com/product/ribu1c/

That look similar the the current sensor I was using. To sense the current to a device and trigger an I/OLinc. The sensor mentioned does not measure voltage. It senses current in a circuit. Like a motor or other load running and drawing current. 26VAC. Sounds like you are trying to detect a control voltage. From a burner control circuit. I am not sure that sensor or the ones I used. Can detect the control current that low. I know my Honeywell now Resido is a 200mA control current. I believe mine was 500mA minimum but may do lower by wrapping the conductor around the form a few times. Back in Smarthome days. They had an 8015 sensor. That could do that voltage. With a few improvements it would work with an I/Olinc. Being a hardware type. I dissected it and have information on how to construct one. With a true AC input optpcoupler.

Do you want to detect 120VAC or can the current in the 120VAC circuity be used? The manual does show how the second sense wire can be used. Not too elegant but you can use a 120VAC coil relay to trigger a I/OLinc Sensor input. To send an Insteon command when 120VAC is on. If you can use the current. They make a self powered current sensor with dry contact outputs. It could then trigger the I/OLinc.

Almost all dual band devices. Have a built in communications test (4 tap test for many or flow chart to follow). You can try the test to supplement testing the system with them unplugged. If the revision is any of the 1 series. They are on the transformer style main board with a daughter board. The revision 2 are on the same main board as the 2413 PLM. With the same capacitor issues as the PLM. Revision number may effect the decision. I have a pair of 1.6 in use for many years. Replacing a pair of revision 2 that had failed power supplies.

I still have some in use. If they still work I would also say keep them. I have some of the original V1.3. That failed. Load flashed on and off at about a 1 second cycle. I did rebuild them but now retired. My V4 ones are still in use.

Thank you for the information. I have seen the LED Glow/Flicker Eliminators. Used on X10 installations. They have had good results with them.

If the light has local control enabled. There is a remote chance a touchy load (LED bulb) may have triggered it on. I believe it would report the change back to the ISY controller.

OK sounds like a way to proceed. I forgot to mention that white led would be on bright or flashing depending on phase of the sender and receiver, but they where communicating with each other.

The 4 tap tests works on many of the dual band modules. You tap the set button 4 times and it starts the communications test. Some models use a flow chart and a sequence of set button ans LED flask patterns to start the test. Some refer to it a the Beacon test. I have seen that some still follow the 4 tap method though it shows in a flow chart. Then you look at the other modules LED and what it is showing. Flashing Green shows it is communicating on opposite phases. Flashing Red communicating on the same phase. No flashing not communicating between the test modules. Not all will pass the test. Just you need some showing between them. Note the 2413S also can do the 4 tap test to other modules. The LED on some can also be set to flash on traffic. That also may give you some clues.

May also depend on your wanting to use any of the latest I3 Insteon Modules. Only the eisy has firmware to control them. Depending on if the modules are the real old I1 power line only. Your new home may have noise makers or signal suckers. If you have any Dual Band modules. Try seeing what their built in Communications Tests show. As you may have a hard to reach area in the home. If the 2413S is a revision >2.0 and not the latest. You could be correct. As they had power supply issues and for some failed.

Back in the ISY99i and earlier ISY994i days. There was no Finder. We had a start.jnlp file to access the Administrative Console. I believe it may also have been created for the firmware we where using. V3.3.10 was the last ISY99i firmware released.

The reset button actually had more than one function. If you held it for a short time (yes I forgot exact length). You reset the console access and password to admin. If you hold it longer. 30 seconds sound like it maybe it. You did a full factory reset on it and you needed use a procedure to add firmware to it.

Been a real long time now. I have used an ISY994i for probably the whole 16 years it was sold. Last time I accessed my ISY99i with the last firmware 3.3.10 released for it. Was with the Administrative Console. Released for that revision firmware. As the Finder was not released and each update had its own Console. Early enough Java so that the Security Tab had lower levels I used and not just the Hi or Very Hi choices. I believe it was a lower choice that worked. Never tried it but in the Java Security Tab. There is a place to put information in the Exception Site List. I think Java still asks about it but you can still run the program after an OK. If in that list.

I do not believe the ISY Finder goes back that far for the firmware in the ISY99i. There was an older administrative console program to access it. It my have also even been tied to what firmware is in the ISY99i. As I do remember getting later ones from time to time. As newer firmware was released.

I believe (old memories here). I also get a similar message when I tried my ISY99i. I think the present program will not work correctly on the ISY99i.

I have a power strip that has both a noise and surge suppression feature. The noise suppression is just a AC rated capacitor across the power line. It absorbs both Insteon and x10 power line signals as noise. I ended up opening it up and removing the capacitor. Though it probably would not effect dual band devices as much. As they also have RF. In my setup. I have a 10A FilterLinc with my UPS in the filtered outlet and the PLM in the pass through outlet on the front of it.