Brian H

Depending on the hardware revision of your Switchlinc Dimmer. Some would beep if they detected an improper load on them. Can you easily test it with the load disconnected? Since this just started and you had to do a restore to get it to work again. There is a slight possibility the Switchlinc is starting to fail.

ISY99i or ISY994i? What firmware is running on the controller? If you are using an ISY99i the last firmware may not support the module.

It is possible that even though the LED bulbs are rated to be dimmed. They may not play well with the KPLs electronics. In some tests I have combined different LED bulbs with an assortment of dimmer modules and some combinations where not ideal. There is also another rarely mentioned trait of dimmable LED bulbs. Repetitive peak and inrush currents. The brief large repetitive current spikes can cause problems. Many manufacturers will give you an equivalent number. Like I have seen a Lighting Science LED bulb that used 10 watts. Was to be counted as a 80 watt incandescent load when doing the load calculations on a dimmer. If you have the Philips model number. You maybe able to find a specifications sheet or a tested dimmer model number chart. That would give you the number of bulbs that could be used on a dimmer. I have seen almost no automation dimmers tested but you may still get a rough idea of the incandescent equivalent your bulb is rated for.

Ground wires are not needed for Insteon Modules to work. In my old house there is no ground wire in the two wire Romex. Insteon Switches work fine with no grounds. Safety is a different but important difference.

Not all LED Bulbs are made for use on dimmers. If you are using one not rated to be on a dimmer. That could be contributing to your problem.

What revision firmware are you running? That was fixed in the later ISY994i firmware and I believe there is a work around for the last firmware used in the ISY99i.

Can't make a blanket statement that CFLs are all a problem. Some are totally fine while another brand maybe a real power line noise maker or signal absorber. A non dimmable CFL on a dimmer or a control that uses a Triac to switch it On and Off. Can be a real issue.

I just wanted to verify the Sensor Input for the I/OLInc may have been connected to the safety sensor input on the opener. The NO and Common are a dry relay contact and should not be polarity sensitive. The opener and its control pad are polarity sensitive. As some controls put electronic components on the contacts. To do things like turn the light openers Light On and Off. The white LED on the side of the I/OLinc flickers when the opener is running? Does the Sensor LED go On and Off when the magnet gets moved from being close to the sensor?

What firmware version is reported in the Administrative Console in the PLM Info/Status choice in the Tools Tab?

The Garage Door Sensor is a magnetic switch mounted by you on the door and frame correct? If you are using the Garage Door's Openers Jam Sensor. You have the incorrect one and have to use an independent magnetic sensor. There should be four wires from the I/OLinc to the Garage Door Area. Relay NO and Common for the Push Button Input connection on the opener. The Red and White terminal in your above diagram. The Sensor and Ground to is own separate Magnetic Sensor. Mounted on the Garage Door and Door Frame. If the Sensor LED is not going On and Off when the door moves. It maybe out of adjustment. There are diagrams and information in the Garage Door Kits Quick Start Guide. http://www.smarthome.com/manuals/74551qs.pdf

Did you possibly connect the door openers jam sensor to the I/OLincs Ground and Sensor input? The magnetic sensor that is part of the garage door kit. Goes to the Sensor and Ground Terminals. The NC and Common to the door openers open closed button terminals.

You should not have any manual or Houselinc created links in any of your modules. Best to start with a Factory Reset of all modules and let the ISY994i do everything. Left over links will eventually cause headaches.

viewtopic.php?f=25&t=14765

Best place to ask is their support forums. http://www.simplehomenet.com/forum/index.php If you download and unzip the sample file. The .php file can be opened with a simple text editing program if you don't have the evaluation or full users version of Docklight. The added commands listed in the documentation would also not be understood by the ISY controller as it normally would not have to deal with them. Smartenit also sells it as a development module for your own sothware.

I would seriously doubt it. To name one difference a quick look showed. The 2413S PLM uses a 19,200,N,8,1 Baud Rate. The ZBPLM uses 115,200,N,8,1 Baud Rate. The sample Docklight file you can download from the devices web page does show some of the standard PLM serial command strings but the baud rate is also incorrect for the standard 2413S PLM.

You may also want to open the Event Viewer on level 3 and see if the RemoteLinc Button message is received each time the button is pushed.

When the sensor input changes. The sensor LED indicator will go On or Off. If you use the N/O and C it should go On when the relay is activated. The 5 volt terminal should not be used. Just the sensor and ground.

The EZIO8SA uses a separate PLM to interface to the power line. The majority of the Smartenit {Simplehomenet} modules are built into a basic PLM they buy from Smartlabs and use their custom Daughter Card. No external PLM is needed for them to communicate with your ISY System.

74551 is the Garage Door Kit and uses the 2450 I/OLinc. We have seen some Insteon modules ship with test links and X10 addresses in them. You may want to factory reset the I/OLinc to remove any test data left in them when they shipped and restore its databese through the Administrative console. You did do all the linking through the Administrative Console and not using manual link button routines?

I would have little faith in a Factory reset doing anything. When mine got flaky. I unplugged it for 12 hours and it then worked for maybe 5 days then crashed again. Next time I tried it it was running for maybe an hour then the LED again went out. I would say. Get a new PLM. Appearing to run extra warm would also indicate something is failing and getting warmer than normal.

Are you using any X10 modules or Insteon modules with a X10 address added? I see an X10 P13 Off (11) entry in your log.

Thank you for verifying it is a 10K Thermistor.

I don't have one to verify. 1. My thoughts are more on the line of a Thermistor that changes resistance with temperature. Over a Thermocouple generating a voltage proportional to temperature. 3. The internal photos of the 2441TH and 2441ZTH on the FCC Database both show what looks like the same small Blue Sensor. https://apps.fcc.gov/oetcf/eas/reports/ ... Search.cfm Grantee is SBP Product Code is the remaining parts of the listed FCC ID. 2441T for the wired. 2441ZT for the wireless. In the details tab. Photos and test reports.

There is no Insteon module that directly outputs 12 volts DC. As pointed out an I/OLinc or one of the Smartenit modules with an output relay could be used.

The wireless thermostat does not send the remote sensors data to any other module. It is only displayed on its own display. This thread may give you some added information. viewtopic.php?f=26&t=9833