Brian H

Beta 4.2.1 lists the 2845-222 cat 10, sub cat 11, in its drop down list. Are you seeing it still being reported as a TriggerLinc?

Did you then do a compare to see if they matched what your ISY information is? The 00.00.00.00.00.00.00.00 Is the first unused link memory address not used and is normal. A compare should show it as ignored when compared to the ISY Link Table for the EZIO2x4

12VAC on I1+ and I1-. Could damage the Optoisolator if you exceed its input emitters reverse voltage break down. Even it you don't exceed its reverse break down voltage. The processor in the EZIO2x4 is seeing a 60 cycle On, Off pulse.

There is information in this thread. viewtopic.php?f=25&t=12880&hilit=weatherbug Weatherbug changed things and the Zip Code no longer works.

You may find this interesting. I believe some have used the CT-800 current sensor to trigger an I/OLinc. http://cocoontech.com/forums/topic/1142 ... erfurnace/ I have a older revision SynchroLinc. I will add it to my ISY and see what options show up. I see the Options where given to you by LeeG so I will not post it again.

Is the PLM the older 2412S that can also power the ISY99i or the 2413S with external power supply for the ISY99i? I had a 2413S fail in two years three months. Three months after the two year warranty.

Due to running out of programming space in an ISY99i. 3.3.10 will be the last firmware avilable for it. If all your modules are working correctly. No you don't have to upgrade to an ISY994i but no new model Insteon modules will be properly supported. I believe the special ISY99i to ISY994i upgrade is still on the UDI sales page.

This is an unofficial list of many of the Insteon devices. Mostly from what users have provided and known issues maybe listed. http://www.madreporite.com/insteon/Inst ... e_list.htm

The ISY99i was working OK and then started going into Safe Mode? You may want to contact UDI Support directly. They are excellent and will even schedule an appointment to troubleshoot your PLM and ISY994i for problems remotely if need. If you have not found the UDI wiki it is just full of useful information. Like a full users manual and troubleshooting information. http://wiki.universal-devices.com/index ... =Main_Page

Click on the sensor listing in the device tree and there should be an Options Tab on the bottom right side of the modules properties screen.

I doubt you damaged the 2413S PLM. When you say Reset. Was it through the Administrative Console or a Factory Reset with the Set Button? Where you using the start linking method or the New Insteon Device choice in the Link Management drop down menu, to add module? The flashing LED may indicate it is in the Linking Mode that was not stopped before trying to do something else. There are lots of tutorials and information in the wiki. Like full users manuals and how to start up guides. http://wiki.universal-devices.com/index ... =Main_Page

When you replaced the PLM. Did you power down the old PLM and ISY99i? The detection of PLM is done when the ISY99i powers up. If it was not power cycled it will not see the new PLM. From what I have seen here. Power down both the PLM and ISY99ii Replace the PLM and power it up first so it is completely initialized. Then Power up the ISY99i. Then use the Restore Modem (PLM) choice in the files menu. To add the new PLMs ID to all the modules in the system,. If your old PLM was a 2412S supplying power to the ISY99i. The new 2413S will not supply the power and you have to use an external power supply.

I reinstalled my problem 2413S into my ISY994i setup. It went dead in a few days. This time I observed it with out any intervention at all. In the time period of two hours. It went On and Off three Times. It was On when. It sent out the commands from the ISY994i as scheduled. My old V1.0 2413S is now handling the ISY994i's duties for now. I am not going to blow another $79.99 plus shipping on a device with a reputation to fail in just over its two year warranty period.

If the PLM is less than two years old. You should be able to get a warranty replacement. Mine is two years and four months old and totally unreliable. Just dies LED Out. Then later in the day is 100% good again and the LED is On. With no power cycle or my intervention. So for now. I have a original hardware 1.0; 2413S doing its thing.

I would also suggest try new bulbs. When you removed the bulbs you also changed the way the triac used for dimming due to a no load condition acts. It is still possible the switches are generating noise when a load is being driven.

Are you using a slow ramp rate On and Off? I may set up a spare module and try some of my Dimmable LED Bulbs. On a slow ramp rate and see how they act.

Most of the dimmable LEDs I have tried. Have a minimum dim level before they pop ON or OFF. It is the nature of the beast. Some are better than others. Philips is one of the better brands. Though even some models from Philips act differently. At one time. Smarthome had a list of dimmable LED bulbs they had tried. I believe they where Sylvania brand. You may want to try a few brands and see if you can find a more suitable one for your installation.

You are welcome. I am glad your problem was fixed.

What is the model of the motion sensor? Some may not have a good signal swing with the sensing input on the module. How have you set up the options in the module?

LED bulb electronics have to meet a standard of not putting electronic noise back on the power lines. Some manufacturers use a simple cheap cost capacitor directly between the line and neutral power input. This capacitor can absorb X10 and Insteon power line signals as noise. Adding a small coil before the capacitor on the line side eliminates this problem. Almost all the LED Bulbs I have tested. Do not absorb power line signals or make power line noise. You would have to try the ones you bought and see if anything gets changed. Good chance they will be OK. If they are not dimmable. Then using them on a Insteon Module that dims should be avoided. Even at 100% On they modify the AC enough to interact with the LED bulbs electronics.

I have my power supply for the ISY994i on my UPS. PLM is on a unfiltered front outlet of a Filterlinc and the UPS on the filtered outlet of the FilterLinc. That way the UPS AC Input noise filter doesn't effect the signals. The PLM can't be on an UPS because the power line Insteon and X10 signals will not pass through it and many also absorb signals on the power line side. Unless you want to try and use Insteon RF only communications as mentioned earlier in the thread.

My 2413S died the other night. The LED on the side was out. I power cycled the ISY994i and PLM. The LED was still out. Then the ISY994i detected the PLM problem and was in Safe Mode. As I woud have expected. Tried a Factory Reset on the PLM and it still was out. Used a spare 2413S and used the Restore Modem (PLM) to get back in business. The next morning after sitting off for maybe 14 hours. It again was working. Put it in the Scrap box as I no longer trust it. I also missed the 20% Off sale by one day. Though they are listed as Back Ordered until 03/25/2014

All CFLs and LED bulbs are not the same. All of them are required to limit how much electronic noise they put back on the power lines. I am not sure if some of the lower cost one actually get the noise much lower than the allowed standard. How the manufacturer reduces the noise does it makes a difference. Simply a capacitor across the power input will stop the noise but it also absorbs X10 and Insteon power line signals. By adding one coil to the line wire before the capacitor usually allows the internal noise to be stopped while the X10 and Insteon signals are not effected greatly. I have disassembled some dead CFLs and some manufacturers had the coil on the line wire and many didn't.

Is there a Neutral Power connection in the switch boxes? Insteon modules require a Neutral power connection to work. Except the two wire SwitchLinc that steals the power through the load and it has to be an incandescent load. The Neutral maybe in the rear of the switch box. Maybe wire nutued to other Neutrals between the switch boxes. If you find a White wire on the original switches terminals and the switch does not have an outlet or back light on it. That White is not Neutral but is part of a switch loop.

One thing not brought up yet. Is the SwitchLinc you are trying to use. The 2474D two wire one that steals power through the load? It is not made for anything but incandescent loads and may have unexpected results with other type loads.