Brian H

May depend on the Zwave modules layout. I have a Home Settings {Intermatic} HA20C 3-Way Toggle Switch and the FCC Database photos show the antenna on the face plate just behind the toggle mechanism. Close to the front of the electrical box. Dual Band Insteon 2477D and 2477S SwitchLinc photos show their antenna in the rear of the module. Near the back side of the module. Inside the electrical box. I would suspect a metal box may effect both, but the SwitchLinc maybe more effected than my HA20C is. Though I never did much with the Home Settings modules I got in a clearance sale. More of a how do they work test.

Extended warranty is no longer an avilable option. Though many have complained about the change.

I will echo LeeG's thoughts. May not be a good idea. As even at 100% the AC output is modified. Each device being controlled may act different than another device. Some may work. Some may just refuse to work. Some may look like they are working but fail with a shorter than normal lifetime. I know someone that ran a small AC wall wart on an X10 Socket Rocket that doesn't dim but uses a triac {dimming component in a LampLinc} always On at 100%. Worked for about a year and one day they noticed the case was melting.

Use the I/OLinc to switch in a second mechanical thermostat set to 60 degrees. Off the original set to 42 degrees and On switches in the added one set to 60 degrees. I believe the Insteon Thermostat may work with a two wire heat only control if you add a power supply to it or use the two wire heat only adapter Smarthome sells, for the Venstar Insteon enabled thermostats. http://www.smarthome.com/30418/Venstar- ... Kit/p.aspx

Just a thought as it is not ideal. I/OLinc's normally Open Relay Contacts. In parallel with the thermostat's two terminals. Turn On the I/OLInc the heat turns On. Though it will not sense the temperature and the heat will stay On until the I/OLInc is turned Off. Or use it to connect a second thermostat set to a higher temperature when On. No run away heat that way.

The I/OLinc has a built in voltage on its Sense Input and is designed for a dry contact not detecting a voltage. Not a good idea. Though the I/OLinc's voltage is 5 volts so it maybe alright.

Installed fine for me. Java did another update to 1.7.15 and it seems OK with 4.0.2. The ISY Finder is also now working like it use to.

If the siren output voltage is either +12 or +24 volts. Some have used the ELK single relay board with their security systems and an I/OLinc Sensor Input. http://www.smarthome.com/1299/ELK-912B- ... olt/p.aspx There is also a 12 volt only model also. http://www.smarthome.com/7278/ELK-912-S ... ard/p.aspx

I believe that 4.0.2 when released. Will have the Finder bug corrected.

You may want to update your firmware to the latest official release. That way all the replies would be for the latest released firmware. viewtopic.php?f=25&t=10602

On a DB9 serial cable common is pin 5. The TTL signals are not in the provided cable and are not any RS232 signal.

Small incandescent night light bulb also works. Some if technically inclined. Have added a resistor on the load to calm down the glow.

If you have a ISY99i Pro. You can contact UDI with the old ISY99i's uuid and the new ISY994i's uuid and they can transfer the Pro Module from the old unit to your new unit.

The ISY99i has reached its firmware size limits and will have no more firmware above 3.310 avilable for it. So the only real option is one of the ISY994i models. viewtopic.php?f=44&t=10771

No. 3.3.10 is the last ISY99i firmware to be released. viewtopic.php?f=44&t=10771

After installation I have a problem. I am using the method c. and the 99i Administrative Console Icon insists I choose my device in the ISY Finder ever time I start it. Same for Dashboard.

There are internal photos of the Insteon Dual band Devices in the FCC Database. If the module in the photo. Has a daughter board marked Insteon RF Modem. The antenna is the coiled piece of solid wire.

Adding a wire to the internal antenna could detune the transmitter in the module. Void its FCC acceptance. Module uses a power line derived power supply and there is a very good chance the antenna wire would be AC hot to any external safety ground.

Page 76 and 77 of the users manual may assist you. http://www.universal-devices.com/docs/p ... _3.2.6.pdf

It is in the drop down list for firmware 3.3.10 now. Cat 10 Subcat 0A

Do you have the optional A10/X10 Firmware add on module? If you do here is some information from the UDI wiki. http://wiki.universal-devices.com/index ... ed_A10/X10 You may also want to give the UDI wiki a look at. There is very good information there. Including a full users manual. http://wiki.universal-devices.com/index ... =Main_Page

Well from all I have read. A dimmer on an outlet is against the electrical code. Someone not familiar with the setup. Plugs in a portable fan, vacuum cleaner, Nondimmable CFL or LED Bulb in a lamp and boom there goes the KPL or the device plugged into it.

You are controlling a wall outlet with a dimmer type KPL? Not safe to use a dimmer on a wall outlet. Too easy to plug a device not made to be dimmed plugged in.

You may want to look at the Full Users Manual. It shows how you use the Travelers to get the power to each switch location. http://wiki.smarthome.com/index.php?title=2876DB_Manual There are two manuals. Above and below hardware revision 5.0.

Though more costly than a RemoteLinc2 and optional Tabletop Stand. You could put a SwitchLinc or KeypadLinc in the optional Insteon Tabletop Case. Not sure if the bigger Dual Band Models Fit. http://www.smarthome.com/2402WH/Tableto ... ite/p.aspx RemoteLinc2 can also be used with its optional tabletop stand. http://www.smarthome.com/2444BWH/Remote ... and/p.aspx